Iridescent Particles in Ardex's 8+9 Waterproofing - A closer look

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by johnfrwhipple, Oct 26, 2012.

  1. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Both TLS and QEP leave the bottom of the strap under the tile...you can reuse the wedge or clip (the clamp parts) again. With the QEP wedges, people have said it can get pretty rough on the fingers inserting the wedge (I've never used them, just hearsay), the clip from the TLS require a tool to tighten which may make consistency more reliable but at a cost. The manufacturers have videos on their website...might be worthwhile viewing, then decide. I'd probably try either one. If I was going to be doing this a lot, I'd consider the TLS system maybe more favorably since you could amortize the cost of the tool over a long time. Either will work if you follow the instructions and should give a better, quicker result than not using one.
  2. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    stucco meshm drywall mesh VS SK Mesh by Ardex

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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2014
  3. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    Using a Hand Mixer (Kitchen Aid) to mix Ardex 8+9

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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2014
  4. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    When using large format tile, you generally want or need moderately deep layer of thinset...I don't think any of the straps would be that big of a deal. The only time you can use a very thin layer of thinset is with very flat tile on a very flat floor which rarely happens. The instructions I've seen have the straps maybe an inch or so from an edge, so clearing the thinset that might ooze up shouldn't be a huge deal.
  6. Daler

    Daler New Member

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    Location:
    Cowichan, BC
    ..........
  7. Daler

    Daler New Member

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    Location:
    Cowichan, BC
    alrighty now ..is that the small hand beater or the skookum desktop model?
  8. Daler

    Daler New Member

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    Location:
    Cowichan, BC
    We haven't committed to the 12x24 tile yet but it looks like it will be the common Rainfall White. We are thinking on running it horizontally (design lines across), stacked, and not radius'd. There will be a feature in the wall -- probably a continuation of the floor and up the center of the pony wall (pebbles).

    Today, the local dealer demo'd the Lash system. I thought the base of the clip (being arched) would screw with the thickness of the mortar. He showed how it pulls up tight to the wedges and leaves only the thickness of the clip base under the tile (about 1/8"). I don't know how that translates into the actual install though by these hands :confused:

    What blew me away was that he attached 4 tiles together using the Lash and lifted the whole works. This showed how locked in everything became. I'm just not strong enough to do that with a bunch of 12x24's though ;)
  9. Daler

    Daler New Member

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    Location:
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    :p
    ..such as using a 1/2x1/2 trowel, or is that too large for 12x24's, Jim? I would guess those ruts would then be pretty deep. Coupled with back buttering, I would also think there shouldn't be a problem in working with any levellers ..and I would guess that with deep thinset some sort of levelling help would be needed to overcome the now-uneven buildup issue??

    But I ain't the Expert ..just a novice who's just trying to gather all the facts and opinions ahead of job :p



    ..hey, this is a great discussion, it's really helpful!
  10. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Location:
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    The depth of the thinset all depends on how flat things are, as I said, both the tile and the floor. With a bigger tile, your first one can set the whole scheme for the entire floor - you want it flat, and a bubble level is useful for that. Then, depending on the floor, you use whatever depth of thinset you need to keep things all in one nice, flat plane with good coverage. There's a limit on how thick you can make thinset, and may need a medium bed mortar if things aren't too flat or there's variations in the floor, or the tile, like bows or cups, etc. Again, the goal is full coverage with the tiles all in one nice plane. One of the leveling systems can help get them in plane, but make sure the first one is level first!
  11. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple Bathroom Design & Build - North Vancouver, B.C.

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    Post(s) removed by John Whipple
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2014
  12. Daler

    Daler New Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Cowichan, BC
    Yer the guy with the hands-on experience with those levellers, so I have to take that opinion into consideration -- thanks. I do want to end up with as little lippage as possible ..there will be a lot of sunshine on them from the skylight above. I'll look around for a local alternative and something that won't break the bank.

    Well, with that x32 price you talked me out of it :eek:
    I assume the bags of x5 I have around here will be ok for the Hardi fill, burn-in, and pebbles, but not good enough for the large format tiles? The supplier also has x77 on hand. What's your experience with it ..the Ardex site also yaks about that being the thinset of choice for LF tiles. Cheaper at ~$35 too.
    And so the suggested size of trowel to go this job is...??

    Your mixer experiment: no push at this end. I won't be attempting any Hardi filling and taping (let alone tiling) until we finish with drywalling ..and have settled in of our new family member. So probably in another week or so. As this is not a commercial job I gave up on any sort of strict timeline ..the beds are comfortable in the spare room :rolleyes:
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2013
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