Increase flow from water line to fridge

[Josh R]

Need to know what I can do to increase the flow for a water line to the fridge. I am using a saddle valve currently in this setup. Bought this kit from home depot. The line is probably 6-7 feet long. Any help is appreciated... thanks in advance.

Below is the link to the kit I have purchased and installed myself.
Everbilt 1/4 in. x 25 ft. Poly Ice Maker Kit

My fridge: Samsung-22-5-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-in-Stainless-Steel-Counter-Depth

 

[Gary Swart]

You can not increase the pressure. Your problem is low flow. Pressure is determined by the city main. I think the problem you have may very well be the saddle valve. These are pieces of crap that are sold to DIY that are seeking a quick and easy way to connect a new line into their existing lines. At first, it seems logical, but these are destined to become problems. What most of the pros and a lot of us DIY do is to cut into the supply line, sweat a tee into the cut, and adapt the resulting third side to 1/4" copper. We do not use the plastic tubing that is usually sold along with the saddle valve. To an inexperienced DIY sweating is one of life's great mysteries that they think would require a special class and years of experience to learn. Actually, it requires about 10 minutes to read the simple directions that come with the propane torch, 10 more minutes with some scrap pieces of pipe to practice a few joints, and while not quite ready to become a real plumber, they can make a joint that will last as long is the pro-made joints. Maybe not as pretty, but no points award for beauty. Do learn the difference between pressure and flow.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Need to know what I can do to increase the water pressure for a water line for the fridge. I believe I am using a saddle valve currently in this setup. Bought this kit from home depot.

I suspect you bought an icemaker kit, but you are using this to supply a water dispenser. I would like to think that a "Refrigerator Water Supply Kit" would have had bigger tubing, but I don't know for sure.

 

[Josh R]

It is for both water and ice its a new samsung fridge. I think I may need a bigger valve or wider water line running from the valve to the fridge. Right now it is just the plastic tubing that came with the kit from home depot with the saddle valve.

Edit: you are correct this was for an ice maker

 

[Jadnashua]

The supply lines into most refrigerators isn't all that big. Bigger won't hurt, but it may not help. The size can affect the operational pressure because of internal friction. FWIW, pressure will be the same without flow, regardless of the size of the supply line, it only drops because of friction during flow.

 

[JRC3]

Here's what I'd do.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...Compression-Service-Stop-Tee-24983A/206356284

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...-Maker-Supply-Line-7253-120-14-2-EB/205854155

 

[Josh R]

A plumber I have used in the past said he would use this:
1/2 " compression tee and a 5/8 x 1/4 compression valve.

Any thoughts?

 

[Josh R]

Here's what I'd do.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...Compression-Service-Stop-Tee-24983A/206356284

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...-Maker-Supply-Line-7253-120-14-2-EB/205854155

Okay so if I kept my current valve and decided to upgrade the supply line from the existing skinny plastic one... Would I require anything additional for connecting this to my saddle valve and also to the back of the fridge?

My fridge: Samsung-22-5-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-in-Stainless-Steel-Counter-Depth

 

[DougB]

Okay so if I kept my current valve and decided to upgrade the supply line from the existing skinny plastic one... Would I require anything additional for connecting this to my saddle valve and also to the back of the fridge?

My fridge: Samsung-22-5-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-in-Stainless-Steel-Counter-Depth

Couple of thoughts: 1/4" saddle tees are the worst. Not only are they not to code, they leak, there is a needle that pierces the copper. It's really a small opening, this is why you're not getting the flow.

All refrigerators I've seen use 1/4" OD soft copper.

The best thing you can do is install a Tee and an 1/4" compression fitting, a 1/4 turn valve that was 'full flow'. I would use copper, instead of plastic.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

The saddle tee worsens an already bad design, and the long length of small i.d. tubing you have used will reduce the flow excessively. If we do not have a solid copper supply within 3-4 feet of the refrigerator, it will be part of the job to install one. I use only enough tubing to make a loop behind the unit to allow the refrigerator to be moved in and out for cleaning and maintenance.

 

[JRC3]

Okay so if I kept my current valve and decided to upgrade the supply line from the existing skinny plastic one... Would I require anything additional for connecting this to my saddle valve and also to the back of the fridge?

I was saying replace the saddle valve with this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...Compression-Service-Stop-Tee-24983A/206356284

...And a new supply line.

 

[Jacobsond]

Remember the fridge uses that little 1/4 inch line.A lot of fridges instead of a water balder inside just have a coil of that little 1/4 in stuff inside. That means the water may never come out as fast as you think it should. I have mine hooked up to a 3/4 supply line through a regular shutoff. It didn't make a noticeable difference from the saddle valve. With city pressure around 50 I believe.Changing the saddle valve would be wise,but may not produce the the water volume you are looking for.

 

[Josh R]

I was saying replace the saddle valve with this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...Compression-Service-Stop-Tee-24983A/206356284

...And a new supply line.

But that supply line does not seem like it would attach to the back of the fridge? What else do I need to attach it properly?

 

[JRC3]

But that supply line does not seem like it would attach to the back of the fridge? What else do I need to attach it properly?

Gotch ya, remove everything from the supply side of the compression coupling.

Discard all this:

Leave the coupler attached to the ice make line and screw the new supply line directly to it. It has a rubber washer that is shaped to fit the compression fitting. Same on the Shark Bite valve, discard the compression nut and sleeve and attach the new supply line. Same using the existing saddle valve.

In the end you'll have something like this:

Don't use any Teflon tape.


You can try the new supply line with the saddle valve but the problem is more than like the valve itself. Just to be sure screw the valve all the way in until it stops, making sure it has fully pierced the copper pipe. Then screw it all the way out making sure it is fully opened and leave it.