How to handle tub to wall outside corner?

[Newmantjn]

Please see the picture. I have a cement board to green board transition that I'm not sure how to handle.

Per the picture, the tile will go all the way to the ceiling in the tub/shower area and about half way up in the green board area. The tile will wrap around that corner on the bottom.

My initial thought was to put a plastic corner bead on there, but I'm concerned about how the tile would wrap around that corner. I'm worried that the "bead" part will not allow the corner piece to wrap without interference. Plus, filling the gap at the corner will bring the wall slightly out of flat, which may make the tile not not lay flat.

My second thought was just to leave it as is and then run the tile up to the corner just caulk the interface.

My third thought was to put a paper corner bead on there, as it would be flat and not have any thickness to interfere in any way.

Any suggestions/advice?

 

[Jadnashua]

Schluter started in the tiling business selling profiles (where, in Europe, very few tile ever came with trim pieces). There are some that would work for what you wish to do. Their catalog is huge in different styles, sizes, materials, finish, and colors. They're not the only company that makes them, but they have the largest selection.

 

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[Erico]

Please see the picture. I have a cement board to green board transition that I'm not sure how to handle.

Per the picture, the tile will go all the way to the ceiling in the tub/shower area and about half way up in the green board area. The tile will wrap around that corner on the bottom.

My initial thought was to put a plastic corner bead on there, but I'm concerned about how the tile would wrap around that corner. I'm worried that the "bead" part will not allow the corner piece to wrap without interference. Plus, filling the gap at the corner will bring the wall slightly out of flat, which may make the tile not not lay flat.

My second thought was just to leave it as is and then run the tile up to the corner just caulk the interface.

My third thought was to put a paper corner bead on there, as it would be flat and not have any thickness to interfere in any way.

Any suggestions/advice?

View attachment 36722

I've use plastic bead and floated the thinset. I would run the bead the entire length. Works fine for larger format tiles. Small tiles on sheets might be a problem

You could leave the tile on the backer board proud of the drywall (16 th plus tile thickness) and float the mud and mesh tape at top to meet. And float the thinset and tile the lower half - which would be less noticeable.

Or run the tile on the drywall side to the ceiling.

How are you handling the corner joint? Butting? Bullnose piece?

 

[Jadnashua]

Watch this...

That video only shows some of their line...there are lots more in various colors and styles.

 

[Newmantjn]

It looks like I can get bullnose pieces, so a caulk line may be all that is required here.

 

[Jadnashua]

Bullnose trim tile can be a viable solution if it is available, but the tile is often not the same length as the field tile, and usually not from the same batch, so colorations and grout line lineups may break up your field. You'll also find that in most cases, it's 3-4x more expensive per sqft than the field tile. This, and the lack of those tiles in Europe, is the main reason why profiles were invented. Either solution will work, if both are available to you.

 

[Newmantjn]

Yep, I was noticing the price differential. We are looking at white subway tile.

The field tiles are 1.77 each. The trim tiles are 6.99 each. I may need to discuss the wainscot tile thing with the boss. This will add a ton of $$ to the project.

 

[Jadnashua]

Compared to trim tiles, profiles are dirt cheap! Now, the 'look' may not suit every situation, but there are dozens of different ones in various materials and finishes (and height to match most any tile). At least on Schluter stuff, they're 2.5M long - almost 100".