How to fix dishwasher leak?

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SDmark

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My Whirlpool dishwasher is maybe 20 years old. I run it once a week.

It's leaking at the top of this black tube:

Dishwasher 1.jpg


The bottom of the tube has a spring clamp around it:

Dishwasher 2.jpg


Do I just need a clamp at the top? Is that something I can pick up at Home Depot or do I need something special?

Thanks,

Mark
 

DonL

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What is the model number ?

I don't think a clamp will help, and the leak may not be there.

It looks like it may be leaking around the seal, Is that Soap bubbles in your picture ?

A restriction could cause a leak. there should be little back-pressure on that hose at the top.


Good luck on your project.
 

hj

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If it is leaking at the connection to the air gap fitting, a hose clamp should stop it. But, as a practical matter, there should not be any pressure at that connection to cause the leak.
 

DonL

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For the age of it, I think I would be looking for a new one.

The new ones clean better, and waste less water. And won't last 20 years.


I would say you got your moneys worth.
 

SDmark

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Thanks for the replies. This is a Whirlpool model 810 (DU810CWDB0), purchased from Home Depot on 9/29/1995 for $228. If I used it much I might look for a new one but I don't like to send appliances to the landfill just because they are old, especially if a $1 clamp will fix it.

What is the "air gap fitting"?

This video may clarify where the leak is:


I'm thinking that the design is for the top end of the rubber hose to stay in place with the bend in the hose, basically a friction fit over the white plastic tube, but the hose has lost some "grippiness" with age and is now sliding up when water is flowing into the dishwasher.
 

DonL

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A clamp may help. But the fill input may be blocked. The water can not get into the machine. It should flow clear, it looks like it is not doing that.

If the hose is just stretched a stainless hose clamp would be easy to install, without disconnecting it.


But you may have a blockage on the inside of the machine. Maybe the one way valve is stuck closed.


Good Luck.
 
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SDmark

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Blockage occurred to me after my last post. Removed black rubber tube, stuck a pipe cleaner into white plastic pipe sticking up from side of machine. It went in a couple inches without much resistance, came out a little dirty but without any significant gunk on it, so I didn't think it did anything. Re-positioned rubber hose, turned on dishwasher. No more leak! So apparently the back-pressure from some blockage caused the leak.

Should I still add a clamp or is it better to leave it without a clamp so I know if it gets blocked again?
 

DonL

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Adding a clamp or just a good Tie Wrap would not hurt.

Sounds like you found the real problem.

Sounds like your water level valve was stuck closed.


Good Job.
 

Gary Swart

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A clamp would be a good addition, but forget that spring type. Go to an auto parts store and get a screw clamp. These probably are in a set, which is a shame when you only need one, but that's pretty much the way these kinds of things are sold. Air gap. An air gap is a fixture that is install on top of the counter above the DW. The drain hose connects to it. Then a second hose continues the process to the drain fitting. This a a protective device required by code in many places to prevent contaminated water from backing up into the DW. Some places do not require the air gap, but then the drain hose must be attached under the counter top in what is called a high loop. This prevents the hose from siphoning water into the DW. An air gap is always code approved, the high loop depends on local code.
 

SDmark

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Well I got this hose clamp at Home Depot for $0.94. Good enough?

20141113_224121.jpg


Thanks for explaining air gap. Nothing on top of the counter here. Dishwasher output is the gray flex tube right to left (attaches to left-hand sink drain). Do I need to suspend that to maintain an air gap? The drain is maybe 8-12" above the dishwasher outlet. Obviously it's pumping to get water out of the bottom of the dishwasher ... the reverse siphon would have to happen after the pumping stops?

20141113_224240.jpg
 

DonL

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Nice Job.

If it is 20 years old the way you have it connected is fine.

When you install a new one, you will need to bring it up to New Code rules.


Have Fun.
 

Gary Swart

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It may be working OK, but to my understanding, to prevent siphoning the high loop needs to be above the top of the machine. I can't tell from the picture if there is enough hose length to do that, but you can easily replace that hose with a longer one if necessary. Yep, that hose clamp is exactly what I was referring to. Great price. Auto parts house price would have been a lot more.
 

DonL

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That Drain hose is laying a bit low and the water may never drain out of it.

It could use being raised a bit.

It looks long enough.

Normally the drain comes out of the top of the cabinet, not the bottom.
 
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SDmark

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Well I can't say I fully understand the high loop idea since a siphon works no matter how high the loop. I guess it's harder to get going. Found this article about it--seems opinions differ on the why but all agree it's needed if you don't have an air gap.

I got it up almost to the bottom of the right sink, well above where it would normally connect to the garbage disposal:

Hose high loop.jpg
 

DonL

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You did good.

Nice work.

If your washing machine siphons it sucks.


Enjoy.
 

FullySprinklered

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Good God, you're a native Californian, for sure. If you're having trouble with a 20-year old dishwasher, by all means explore every repair possibility while the dirty dishes cover your ass up.
 

SDmark

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Yeah what a beast of a repair too. I mean, I had to spend 94 cents on a hose clamp and screw it on all by myself! Spent more time posting pics on this forum than fixing it. Meanwhile I learned that I'd probably have to drill a hole through my tile countertop for an air gap if I want to replace the whole unit. Now that would be a hassle.
 
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