how to fine tune 30/50 pressure switch?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by billfig, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Square D with lever, has 2 posts for adjustment, the center proudest stud for Range"turn nut down for higher cut-in, or up for lower cut-in. I thought this one is for raising overall pressure??

    lower stud off to side is Differential "turn nut down for higher cut-out pressure or up(loosen) for lower cut-out-so this one is used for overall higher pressure?

    I can't seem to get the pump to come on later-say when she goes down to 30psi? I turned pump off and drained, when gauge hits BAM! switch clicks and gauge drops to 0.
  2. WellWaterProducts

    WellWaterProducts In the trades

    Messages:
    126
    Location:
    Northwood NH
    How much air pressure is in the tank?
  3. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    exactly 28 lbs. empty.
  4. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,838
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    The big spring (proudest) if tightened, will increase both the kick-in and the kick-out. The small spring if tightened, will increase only the kick-out.
  5. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    well I currently have it at 34-35 kick-in and 52 kick-out using trial/error since logic doesn't seem to work? sure would like to get the spread further apart...wish it were that easy!
    I would love to see it in operation at say 30-55...
  6. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Tightening on the small adjustment screw will widen the bandwidth between on and off. But why do you want to do this??
  7. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    well I adj.the tank psi to 28 per a 30/50 sw. and would like to at least try the 30 cut-in....then an extra 5 for the heck of it.
    I just can't seem to ever get that cut-in below 34?
  8. WellWaterProducts

    WellWaterProducts In the trades

    Messages:
    126
    Location:
    Northwood NH
    I'm sure of your overall strategy here but here goes:

    Loosen the nut on the tall spring a few turns, that will lower the cut-in
    Tighten the nut on the short one to raise the cut-out.


  9. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,383
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Then loosen on the big screw to lower the cut in pressure. (one round = 3 PSI) Most people want an extra 5 or 10 pounds "for the heck of it" to try and get a little extra run time. All you are doing is overstretching the bladder and shortening the tanks life. When I go to a pump system where someone has widened the bandwidth, I know they are trying to reduce the cycling. :)
  10. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Yea I kinda tried it with my valve closed to house and switch off but on recheck, I had a time getting pump to start?
    I'll go try it again with pump on, it's almost like I could take the nut right off of the range/main stud, once the gauge drops to 34 it clicks and water drain just immediately stops too








    So the 20psi differential rule is a "Golden Rule" to strictly adhere too.....
  11. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,838
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    You can keep the 20 PSI spread and increase the cycle time a little by increasing the pressure. GPM from the pump generally diminishes with pressure so at 20-40, the GPM will be more than at 60-80. The GPM through the fixtures however increase with pressure, so your showerhead will put out more GPM at 60-80 than at 20-40. The two combined will result in the pump cycling less during a shower.
  12. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    I loosened large/range adjuster 3 twists of ratchet(a tad over 1 full turn) no change. I then loosened it another 3 twists, no change?
    I noticed when draining gauge gets to 35 and 3 things happen, gauge drops to 0, cut-in clicks and drain is empty(and closed by me at that point) then gauge slowly begins ascending then at 20 it jumps to 40 and pumping begins? Goes to 51psi and stops
  13. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    wow thats pretty interesting! But running a 40-60 must be more taxing on the submersible pump? Why all the different pressures?
  14. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,838
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    If the pressure drops really fast from 35 to 0, it probably means that the precharge on the tank is too high and that at 35, there is no more water in the tank.

    As for how the pump surges from 20 to 40, again if the bladder precharge is too high, there is nowhere for the pressure to go until it exceeds the precharge. Also, the pump uses pressure to make pressure so you will notice a performance curve.
  15. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,838
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    I don't understand the question. The higher the pressure the less the 20 PSI differential is felt. Taking a shower between 20-40 is medeocre at best. Taking a shower at 60-80 is wowzers. Somewhere in between is where one settles depending on personal preference versus pump capacity.
  16. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    1st the air in tank is set to 28, I bought 2 new gauges to check and 1 was digital so that should be ok and it drops instantly..just like that. The pump doesn't surge 20 to 40, the gauge jumps from 20 to 40 which then causes the pump to turn on and the tank fills...unless I got some freak thing going on like weird???


    so I guess all these different psi's are more for the actual pump/setup.
  17. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    Everything is new just yesterday but I wonder if 1 or even 2 things could be defective? It seems to me when draining tank, pressure would drop at a given speed all the way down to 0 or 5 or even maybe 10 psi till she's out?
    Ya know the other thing is "I think" not sure yet, I may have a very small leak at the tank tee/elbow underneath..can't really see under there(I left the extra hole on base to the rear-against wall!) or if a leak is present, I might have tweaked the elbow or something when tightening the Tee, though I did hold the elbow while reefing down to make the final pass line up. If it is leaking, I'd try to return it and get the correct tee(13") this time since they sold me the 10"Tee--which I suppose..don't know for sure, may be a contributing factor to my cut-in/gauge problem?

    ps just want to say Thanks to everyone for their time & knowledge in trying to help me diagnose this mess too! Thanks!
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2011
  18. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,074
    Location:
    Maine
    You probably won't take this advice but the best thing you could do was to leave the switch alone. You start messing with them and they never seem to be where you want them to be.
  19. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    I hear ya..problem was when I 1st started...cutoff was 68psi! I couldnt believe my eyes! so the switch needed major adjustment right out of the box.... I'm still perplexed with the physical pressure on the gauge going from 35 straight off to 0 then creeping back to 20 then immediately jumping up to 40 when in fact the drain has emptied at petcock and the pump is off? This may be the real issue and the wacky switch/adj. is a consequence of that?
  20. billfig

    billfig New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    upstate NY
    I just tried this, opened drain and left open, psi/gauge went down to 35 then drain stopped and at same time gauge dropped to 10psi where it just sat, pump didnt come on...so then...I simply closed drain petcock and surprisingly watched gauge creep from 10 to 20 then jump to 40 and pump came on??? I think maybe the drain cock under the switch nipple may be affecting things? I'll now just try opening a sink valve to drain but I bet it works better..?
    Worked good draining from a faucet as normally would. Gauge down to 34-35 then a quick dribble to 30 I'd say and pump kicked in to 56psi so for me that's a good range! Now as long as everything stays that way...I'll monitor it..and figure out if it's weeping underneath? Those big elbows at the tank are tight new right? Mine seemed to be..I never looked to see if anything was stuffed inside there..didn't notice anything?
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2011
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