How should I update this supply/drain to bathroom sink?

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Walkman

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I have a 60's ranch that had a mix of cast iron, copper and galvanized piping. Some of the galvanized has clogged or rusted through so when something starts leaking I've been working to get rid of the galvanized. I used to sweat copper, but have recently switched to using PEX. I want to fix things so I don't have to touch it again for a long time.

One of the galvanized nipples on hot water supply developed a slow drip. I had planned to take out the vanity, open the drywall and replace the galvanized. I was surprised to find it is only a galvanized nipple that goes to a galvanized fitting that was soldered to a copper pipe that extends down to the basement where it connects to PEX supply lines.

1) Should I just replace the galvanized nipple with a new one, or should I just replace the galvanized/copper section with PEX?


Drain: It's a metal trap that connects with a compression fitting to a metal piece that is soldered to a copper 2" drain (I think it's copper). It's a bit corroded but doesn't look rotted, but the piece that extends out of the trap actually slopes uphill so it must hold some water.

2) Is the metal trap underneath okay, or would it be better to make some change like switching to PVC and a furnco coupling? And is the incorrectly sloping section anything to worry about?


plumb_1.jpg
plumb_2.jpg
 
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Dlarrivee

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The improper slope needs to be fixed.

I would never install a galvanized nipple, never mind a galvanized nipple into a copper or brass fitting. How much copper is there between the pex and your stubout?
 

Walkman

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The copper is about two feet. Here are pictures of the fittings and the pex supply to the copper from the basement.

- Would I have to cut or resolder the 2" copper drain pipe to get it to downslope from the trap? There should only be standing water in the trap, right?
 
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Tom Sawyer

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Use a couple of 1/2" x 4" brass threaded nipples and female threaded angle stops. What makes you think that pex is a long lasting solution to anything?

The drainage piping all needs to slope downhill (first rule of plumbing) Put a hanger on the trap arm and pull it up a little. It probably sagged. No need to change it.
 

Hackney plumbing

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I would take out the two copper risers and replace with pex,that will also get rid of the sharkbites. You could buy brass nipples or make nipples with a couple copper male adapters on each end of a piece of pipe and keep the copper. I dont know what condition its in by a pic.

The structure may have settled and with the blocking above the drain pipe it may have pushed it down. Put a level on top of the pipe and take a pic.


ADD> You might want to put some insulation on the pex line thats touching that cast iron.
 
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Dlarrivee

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Get yourself one of those little orange tools for removing those sharkbites and replace with pex.
sharkbite-disconnect-clip.gif

I prefer to have 100% of one type of material if at all possible. For example I wouldn't use pex for a 2' supply run in a house that is all copper, nor would I leave 2' of copper in a house re-piped with pex.
 
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Dlarrivee

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I was thinking the same thing, I don't think a fitting made of galv. is even available that would fit onto copper pipe for soldering. Never mind the soldering issue.
 

Walkman

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1) Thanks to the feedback, I replaced the copper with pex, eliminating the sharkbites. I bought brass pex/threaded pipe fittings designed to be attached to blocking. Replaced the galvanized nipples with brass.

?? Brass doesn't have the eventual corrosion problems as galvanized, right? Why was it so popular at one time?

2) Turns out the upslope wasn't as bad as I thought on the drain pipe. I strengthened the blocking and add strapping to raise it enough.
 
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