How hard to replace 40 gallon gas water heater with 50 gallon?

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tracyballard

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Hello - I'm about to have to replace a tall 40 gallon water heater that's on it's last legs. The old water heater was installed in 2011, but a pipe above it started leaking and water ran down the sides and into the vent holes, totally soaking the inner insulation and making it impossible to burn without the "sealed" combustion chamber propped wide open. Even so, it doesn't stay lit very well and has to be relit two or 3 times a day, and the piezo igniter is failing now.

So, I'm looking at replacing this thing with a Rheem tall 50 gallon from Home Depot, and I was wondering how hard it would be. I'm an auto mechanic and have all the tools I would need (except for a propane torch, if needed), but I don't have a whole lot of experience with water heaters.

First - the current heater has a big square drip pan underneath it, about 22 inches square or a little bigger - will this size work for the new 5o gallon heater?

Second - the current heater has flexible copper tubing connections on top, and flexible steel at the gas connection - would it be possible that all I have to do is set the new heater in place and screw the current fittings onto the new unit?


thanks for any advice I can get!!! (other than to call a professional, I know I probably should and I'm thinking about it).
 

Reach4

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First, I suggest that you could best answer this with a tape measure and a trip to the store. Consider putting a loud water alarm into the pan to give an earlier warning.

Second, most pros would replace the copper flex connections each time. They may also by code be required to put in a mixer that limits the temperature hot water being distributed to the bathroom and sinks by mixing in cold water as needed. You will need to connect to the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve of the new heater to guide the ejected water to a safe-enough place. This is the only plumbing thing that I can think of that I would use galvanized for, although copper is good for that too. No PVC or CPVC for that job is allowed.

Not a pro.
 

Jadnashua

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Never reuse the corrugated copper supply lines - they get work hardened during installation and sitting there, and when you bend them again, they may crack, or at least will be weaker. You'd have to look at the vent requirements. The actual burner size on a 40-g may be the same as a 50g, but depending on the model, could be larger and require a larger diameter vent pipe Because it may be taller, to maintain the required slope of the vent, you may need to rework that, potentially all the way to the roof. If you're lucky, it goes in very easily, so perusing the installation instructions and dimensions carefully may allow you to go that route.

As said, you may be required to install a tempering valve - where I live, it is required to pass an inspection as well as the installation of a vacuum breaker. Local requirements may differ. There are some prefab tempering setups that just screw in, but most of them you buy the valve and then hook it up the old fashioned way by soldering pipe.

If you decided to get a rapid recovery unit, it would have a bigger burner, and you might then also need a larger gas line, so again, you need to be aware of this, and read the requirements.

It's not all that hard for someone who is handy.

An add-on you might like is a WAGS valve that will detect and shut off the incoming water to the WH and disable the burner if it detects a leak. http://www.taco-hvac.com/products/hydronic_accessories/wags_valve/index.html
 

FullySprinklered

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Yes. You can install it yourself. There are bunches of connectors on the rack that require zero soldering skills. Make sure your new unit will fit. Then you can call the inspection department in any state, town, or municipality between North Carolina and Nova Scotia, and they will send a swat team to take you out.
 

Cacher_Chick

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The one important but often overlooked factor is how the height of the new heater will effect the pitch of the vent stack. I also never re-use any flex piping, water or gas. If it is not solid pipe, it gets replaced on every new install.
 

tracyballard

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thanks for all the info guys - I have now purchased a 50 gallon Rheem from home depot for $417, and I'm going to try to install it myself because home depot said they don't have any installers for this area and that kind of made me think they are a bunch of douches. So, here's what I'm going on:

The current drip pan should be fine because the new heater is 20 inch diameter and the pan is 22 inches square - as long as it sits in there, it's all good.

The current flex connectors need to be trashed, but I can just buy new flex connectors and it will still be just screwing parts together.

Just need to make sure there's enough room to fit this under the current vent, and assume the old vent is big enough for the new one (ok, ya'll didn't say that but I like to think it can work that way - if not what should I check?)

And, as to mixers or permits - not needed, homeowners here don't need permits or inspections when doing their own work except for replacing roofs and busting out curbs.

Let me know if I'm missing anything here, and thanks in advance!
 

Reach4

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This is not common: I would consider loosening the anode (1-1/16 socket wrench usually) while the connection is not yet corroded. You may get by with a breaker bar rather than a big impact wrench. Then reinstall with Teflon tape to maybe 10 or 15 ft-lbs. The threads will cut through the tape to still give a good electrical connection, which is required to do the anode job.

They torque these things into place with a lot more torque than needed. The anode's job is to protect the tank even if the thin glass liner develops cracks. If you consider this, read up on anodes. There are very different opinions. Some even remove the anode if there is sulfur in the water. I switched to a powered anode. I think that a water heater should last more than 15 years. Even if you decide not to do this, and very few people (almost nobody) would even consider it, do treat the water heater during moving as if it has a thin glass lining on the steel inside.

The anode has a bigger job to do if there is acidic or softened water. Hard water will reduce efficiency over time, but the calcium compound deposits will help reduce rusting.
 
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tracyballard

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I wonder if a second anode could be installed in this model water heater (Rheem XG50T06EC38U0) before I install it?
 

Jadnashua

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Some WH tanks offer a second anode as an option. The manual should indicate if that is possible to add. Metal buoys, bridges, piers, and boats all use anodes to keep things from corroding away. They work, but must be replaced as is indicated in their name, they are sacrificial...they are constantly being dissolved, as they do their job.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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if you can do auto mechanic work this should be very easy for you..... just get yourself some flex connectors....

as long as your chimmney is high enough and has draw the right direction you will do ok...

just remember to drain out the old water heater before you attempt to move it and you will
probably do as good as an average plumber.....:):)
 

tracyballard

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Update: the water heater has been installed and was not really that hard. The most difficult part was just lifting it up into the utility closet. Other than that, the only issue was getting the vent connected, since the new one did not sit with its center in the same place as the smaller 40 gallon. I did have to unfreeze the shut off valve, but all I had to do was loosen the bonnet nut a little and the valve was easy to work loose then. The new water heater works great, although the pilot light does have an alarm that goes off every 3 seconds as long as everything is ok. Actually, it's just a little light that flashes every 3 seconds, but it still seems like something Homer Simpson would come up with.
 
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