How easy/hard/expensive to extend the rough-in distance a little?

[cwcw]

Hi all. Bathroom redo about to get underway. I have just a hair over an (10-5/8" rough-in to finished wall) 11.5" rough-in now to the studs in the bathroom and the room will getting 1/2" backer board added to the walls and 3/8" tile on top of that - so there goes any rough-in wiggle room.

The toilet I'd like to buy - a Kohler Santa Rosa (a one-piece) - has just 7/8" breathing room from a 12" rough-in. And there aren't any toilet options I'd really like in what I've seen advertised in a 10" rough-in - made more complicated by the fact that the toilet I will be buying will be black.

All this is to say... how easy/hard/expensive would it be to have the rough-in distance extended a little and what would my plumber be using to do that? There is no toilet at moment (old one removed), PVC pipe is visible, as is the cutout around it on the exposed wood subfloor. (So if we are going to extend the rough-in - now would be the time!)

Thanks very much.

 

[Jadnashua]

It depends on where the joists are in relation to where you want the flange. It could be an easy thing, it could be very difficult. Nothing is impossible, it just costs more. If you need to cut the joists, then you need to re-engineer the floor to maintain the needed strength. If you can just move it without cutting or messing with joists, there is easy access from below (or above, if you tear out some subflooring), then it is easy. If you are going to go to the expense of moving it, keep in mind the proper location of the thing is on TOP of the FINISHED floor, and 12" from the FINISHED wall (make sure to account for all things, like tile, etc, but don't worry about baseboards unless they are exceptionally high). Having a 12" rough-in will give you the largest choice in new toilets. Any of the Totos that use the UniFit adapter can work on 10", and some of those are available in black.