How do I remove the top screen from a control valve?

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by Mikey, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    In this case, an Autotrol 255... doesn't seem to want to untwist. I'm leaning toward crushing the screen and replacing it when I reinstall the valve, but if there's a way to do it without destroying it, I'd love to save the big bucks. Are top screens interchangeable among different valve brands?
  2. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    They do get stuck, you just have to work at it. If it is full of iron, use some iron out. I've used the same upper basket on Clack as well as Fleck valves.
  3. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    This one isn't stuck -- valve has never been used (it's along story) -- and it twists back and forth freely about 1/32" along the diameter. There are 4 little locking tabs on the outer rim (if it's anythinglike the Fleck top basket) that are doing a damn fine job of locking. I see no way to unlock it
  4. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,813
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The clack stacked screens tend to lock in almost permanently. The standard screens should be removable. Clack and Fleck screens are deifinitely different. The Clack screens will usually work in Fleck, the Fleck screens have difficulty working in Clacks without trimming 2 of the tabs on the screen.

    Keep at it, I doubt you will damage the valve, just the screen, and they are cheap.
  5. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Cheap is good. This one is history :).
  6. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    729
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    I didn't know that. I guess I've always used the Clack upper basket unknowingly, which as you stated fits on the Fleck, and thought they were interchangable. Thanks for the info.
  7. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    As I stated, I'm working with an Autotrol (GE) 255 valve. Dealer who sold me the valve gave me a Fleck screen, I think. Says it'll work. I'll find out tomorrow.
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
  8. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,813
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The Clack top screen is slightly less expensive and since it works on both, a lot of companies use it for both. The Fleck screen will work on Autotrol just fine.

    I only found out the Fleck would not work on Clack about 10 years ago. I didn't have a clack screen and tried to use the Fleck on a WS1, fail.

    FYI, the Fleck top screen is usually grey, the Clacks are natural.
  9. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Here are two screens: The one on the right is grey, ordered from softenerparts.com as Fleck p/n TDB1050-BS. The one on the left was bought from a local dealer, his internal p/n FILA0072, described as "Upper screen, fits Autotrol and Fleckenstein". Both have 45 ribs and roughly equivalent slot areas (within the limits of my measurment capability) of around 1.06 sq in. The only obvious differences are that the Fleck "base" is 0.286" thick and it locks in by turning counterclockwise; the natural one has a 0.487" thick base and locks by turning clockwise. Once locked in, I don't see any way to get it out without destroying it. The Fleck looks a little sturdier, but that may be an optical delusion.

    upper screens.jpg
  10. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,813
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The Clack equipment is also different in the valves and heads. They have two locks in the valves that make removal very difficult. The Fleck has four slides, they also lock but the screens are usually removable. The Fleck to screen shown looks more like a knock off than a true Fleck. The real Fleck one is a lighter grey. I could be wrong due to the color differences in the picture/monitor, but... The Fleck original is stronger in my opinion than the Clack standard top screens. Clack makes the best heavy duty top screens on the market but they are very expensive. D1225-05-2T.jpg
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
  11. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Can you recommend a dealer somewhere who will sell me what I actually order? I've only seen one screen with a molded p/n in it, and it was a 1236 sold to me as a Fleck 40922. God knows what I'm getting if there's no identifying mark.
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,813
    Location:
    Ontario California
    The 1236 is a Clack screen, not the 40922.

    PM sent
  13. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Thanks; all I knew is it wasn't the Fleck.
Similar Threads: remove screen
Forum Title Date
Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r Water filter to remove lead, thalium, arsnic May 29, 2014
Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r Bacteria after clorine has been removed? Jan 30, 2014
Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r Deciding which carbon (GAC) filter to remove city Chloramine Sep 26, 2013
Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next? Dec 22, 2012
Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r How do I remove BLFC from Fleck 6700XTR head? Oct 14, 2012

Share This Page