How Do I Puill This Pitless Adaptor?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by dox, Jul 9, 2012.

  1. dox

    dox New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2012
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    How Do I Pull This Pitless Adapter?

    Can anyone identify the pitless adapter pictured and advise on how to pull this?

    Pitless1.jpg

    Pitless2.jpg

    We've attached a pull bar to the 1" threaded hole (about 6' below grade) and can't budge this thing up or down or any direction. If there is a trick to reinstalling please let me know as well.
    Thanks for your help!
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2012
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

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    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Looks like it just rusted over the flange. No trick to that kind, just going to need to pull harder.
     
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  4. dox

    dox New Member

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    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Thanks for your help ValveMan.

    So you think the well casing has rusted and swelled until it covers the pitless flange? That seems like a lot of swelling to me.

    After taking these pictures I attached a shop vac to the pull pipe and vacuumed up the rust near where the flange should be. I still couldn't see anything resembling a flange down there. Should I use the same "shop vac approach" to try and chip away the rusted casing above the flange?

    I was thinking of digging and replacing the pitless adapter. With the casing this bad is this a good idea?

    More info: well is 36 years old; pump replaced 23 years ago; pump still running (only 3-4gpm for 5 minutes, after that only 50psi max, 25' to water, 75' to pump)
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  5. dox

    dox New Member

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    Jul 9, 2012
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    Milwaukee, WI
    Anyone?

    Please?

    I've chipped away some rust above this and still don't see a flange.
     
  6. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

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    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    I can see it. All you can do is pull.
     
  7. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    If you are using a t bar, slip a length of larger pipe over it before you screw in into the pitless and then use it as a slide hammer to pound upward towards the top of the t. This will usually break it loose. Make sure you have it secured with some tension to your tripod so it doesn't fall down the well when it comes loose.
     
  8. dox

    dox New Member

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    Jul 9, 2012
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    Thanks for the advice ValveMan and Cacher_Chick,
    I plan to get back to the well this weekend. Now my concern is this...

    If I get the pitless adapter removed (through various chipping, slide hammering and finagling efforts) will I be able to reinstall it after replacing the pump, pipe and wiring? Or will this area of the well casing be so messed up that I won't be able to fit the male flange back over the female adapter?
     
  9. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

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    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Your gonna need a new o-ring. But if the pitless slides out, it will probably slide back in.
     
  10. Peter100

    Peter100 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2015
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Hi, my well has the same type of pitless adapter as displayed in the picture. There is not rust on the adapter but I still don't see the flange. I made a 1' PVC T handler and hooked it to the adapter successfully. When I pulled the T handler by hand, the adapter just doesn't move or lose at all. I can feel that the adapter is very firm down there. My questions are:
    1) What is the name of this type of pitless adapter? Is this type of adapter pull-able (if yes, why I don't see the flange?)
    2) Is the PVC T handler strong enough for this pulling job? Do I need a metal T Handler ?
    3) Any special trick on pulling (using T handler), any other tool needed?

    Any advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Peter
     
  11. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    One of the reasons for using a t-handle is to stop the whole works from falling down the hole when something goes wrong. Depending on the well, there can be over a hundred pounds of pipe and pump hanging off the pitless to be lifted. Plastic is never appropriate for lifting!
     
  12. Peter100

    Peter100 New Member

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    Feb 6, 2015
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Thanks for the advice from Cacher_Chick. My house is a standard 4 bedroom house and 24 years old, and the well is about 68' deep.

    Here is the photo of my pitless adapter, as you can see, there is no visible flange. Maybe this is an old design and the flange is not visible from the top? Or the flange is hidden in the wall a little bit?

    Looks like this type of pitless adapter is popular in Wisconsin. I would like to confirm it is pull-able before I put all my strength on it....

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  13. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    It would be common to apply a good amount of pressure to the winch line and then pound up on the t-bar to break the pitless free. The o-ring is often rock hard and the corrosion adds to the problem. 68 feet is not deep, but if it is galvanized pipe full of water with a pump hanging off the end, it still is no piece of cake.
     
  14. craigpump

    craigpump Well-Known Member

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    Self employed water system tech
    Location:
    ct
    That's what we call a drill through pitless, the reciever is welded to the outside of the casing.

    What you need to do is screw a steel T bar into the threaded socket and then wiggle the T bar from side to side and back n forth to get things loosened up then pull. You may find that you need to hit the T upwards with a 2lb sledge to free it.

    DONT DROP THE HAMMER!
     
    Reach4 likes this.
  15. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    IL
    Does this kind of pitless lift the arm out, or does the arm stay attached to the casing while just the round part lifts?
     
  16. Peter100

    Peter100 New Member

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    Feb 6, 2015
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Thanks everyone for the help. I made a metal T-handler and got the pump out!!! Yes, it is heavy.

    Reach4, for your question, the arm was lifted out.

    Now I need to find out the old pump's horse-power in order to buy a new one with the same HP or higher. Searched the model number on the internet but looks like it is discontinued. Haven't been able to find the horse power of it.

    Here is the information found labeled on the outside of the pump:

    Sta-Rite Premium Quality Pumps
    Model Number: 8SP4C02P-42
    Code: 1K90K
    STA-RITE A WICOR COMPANY
    U33-167


    STA-RITE
    P27-104

    I attached 2 photo of the pump.

    Anyone know about this SPQ pump?

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  17. craigpump

    craigpump Well-Known Member

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    Self employed water system tech
    Location:
    ct
    Look at the motor, it will tell you the horsepower
     
  18. craigpump

    craigpump Well-Known Member

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    Self employed water system tech
    Location:
    ct
    That pump is 25 yrs old, the best thing to do is measure the wet end so someone can figure out how may stages are in it. Either that or take it apart and count the stages.
     
  19. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    How big is your pressure tank? Based on that, figure that you want the pump to fill the drawdown in about a minute or so. How deep is the water? YOu can see the water level on the drop pipe.

    How deep is the pump. The pump will not be at the bottom of the well so that it does not suck debris.

    With this info you can size the pump without referencing the original pump size.
     
  20. Peter100

    Peter100 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2015
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    The water is 25 feet below ground surface
    The pump is 55 feet below ground surface
    Static water level is 40 feet below ground surface
    I attached a photo for the pressure tank size.

    What are some suggestions for the size of the new pump ? HP? GPM? This is a two wire pump.

    I am also having problems unscrewing the pump from the pipe adapter because it's so tight. Will lubrication oil help? Any advice ?

    Thanks so much for the help!
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

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    Owner of a Water Well and Pump Repair Business
    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    Hard to say exactly which pump you need without knowing what your water needs are but my guess is that a 1/2 HP 10 gallon a minute pump would be sufficient. Pick a professional grade pump like Gould's, grundfos, or franklin. Don't buy one from a big box store.
     
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