How do I eliminate sediment in well water?

[sc.homeowner]

Have always had fine red clay sediment accumulate in toilet tanks but the water has been clear fo the most part. This past week has been much worse. Water had a red/orange tint to it. After the well serviceman pulled the pipe (220 ft.) thinking that it was leaking at a coupling, he found that the check valve was bad and said that the problem was caused by water flowing back down through the check valve after the pump shut off. Rather than replace a good pump he installed a check valve in the first joint of pipe above the pump and I had him put another 100 ft. above that. The water took a few days to clear after being disturbed and has cleared up substantially but still has a some murkiness to it. I am filtering with a 30 micron GE WH FILTER before the bladder tank and a 5 micron after the tank. I lose pressure in the house after a few weeks and have to change the 5 micron one. The 30 micron one last until I change it ( about every 6 mos.) but I'm always afraid it will clog and destroy the pump.
I was wondering if there is a low maintenance sediment filter that would clear this cloudiness?
The pump operates at a max. flow rate of 1o. gal/min. 9.8 amp. 1 hp.
I would like one that is self cleaning so that I don't have to worry about clogged filters.

 

[Reach4]

Backwashing filters are self-cleaning. They look like water softeners, and that would be the first item in line after the pressure tank. That media could be a sand, or could also be a media that does something in addition to the mechanical filtering function. Plus sand takes a lot of flow rate for the backflow. If you seriously consider a backwashing filter (it would cost around as much as a water softener), then you would want to look into media selection.

There are ways to clean a well. The next time you plan to get the pump pulled, you could consider that. One way involves a pipe to the bottom of the well, driven by a big air compressor, to drive particles and water up like a geyser.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

How old is the well? If it is relatively new, then it may just need more developing. When your checkvalve failed, it was essentially surge developing the well. The back and forth agitation motivates the fines. Well drillers will often use something called a surge block to do that. Pumping at a higher rate than what your pump can do is another way a well is developed and is what Reach4 is showing.

Does the well go into a rock bore or is it all cased in mud? If so, does it have screened casing? What are all the details of the well formation?

It is not a good idea to put a filter that can clog between the pump and the tank. How much does that 30 micron filter collect? If a well continues to make sand, then a Lakos sand trap would be beneficial but it won't remove the very fine turbidity. For the fine particles you would need something like what Reach4 described.

 

[sc.homeowner]

The well is approx. 30 years old. According to the driller, the well is a rock bore well and has a 6" PVC casing. Water height above to pump was estimated to be 160 ft. After the repair the other day, I had a hose connected at the well head to clear the chlorine out and it pumped out (dry) in about 25 minutes, but recovered in a few minutes.
I collected a gallon yesterday at the well head and it was clear this morning after standing overnight. There was not even the fine sand/clay particles that is usually in the filters when I change them.

Excluding any further problems from the well itself, would a 0-20 GPM back washing filter work to eliminate having to replace filters regularly and the clogging?
I'm 69 now and my back won't let me spend the time in the crawl space like I used to. LOL
Also I was wondering if there is a better more reliable 2 wire pressure switch than the SQ. D.
It seems they only last 3-5 years and it is difficult to maintain the 43- 65 lb. pressure range that I want.
Thank you all for your help!

 

[LLigetfa]

Also I was wondering if there is a better more reliable 2 wire pressure switch than the SQ. D.
It seems they only last 3-5 years and it is difficult to maintain the 43- 65 lb. pressure range that I want.

There is the possibility that sediment got into the riser tube or under the diaphragm. I suggest a new switch and rod out the tube while you have it apart.

 

[Craigpump]

Pressure switches, Merrill, Boshart or Square D are all junk these days. Replace the nipple under the pressure switch with a brass one when you change the pressure switch.

You want to be sure the well yield will keep up with the backwash cycle.

 

[Reach4]

Do you think that putting the pressure switch above maybe an 8 inch vertical nipple would prevent sediment from accumulating in the pressure switch?

 

[LLigetfa]

Gravity and distance should help. In my case I have a lot of manganese and since the pressure switch has to be after the micronizer, it and the iron precipitates and hardens in layers like pearls in an oyster. I think craigpump is talking about the other parts of the switch, not specifically the diaphragm.

 

[Craigpump]

Hard to say, we see a lot of pressure switches plugged with sediment, iron, scale....it doesn't seem to matter if the nipples are 3, 4 or 6", they all seem to plug up

 

[LLigetfa]

Maybe a longer nipple will keep the sediment out from under the diaphragm but the nipple will still plug.

 

[sc.homeowner]

Hard to say, we see a lot of pressure switches plugged with sediment, iron, scale....it doesn't seem to matter if the nipples are 3, 4 or 6", they all seem to plug up

I know it's not a good idea but that's why I have a filter upstream of the switch to try and keep some of the gunk out. The problem is that the filter won't be "seen" by the switch if it clogs. The pressure switch is the weakest link in the system. IMHO.