Thanks for the feedback, but seriously, I don't think mine have a set screw that was broken off. I sand papered the thing clean as a whistle and saw no place where there could have been any type of set screw. It was smooth all around. I guess I can try cutting it off if no one thinks a couple of pipe wrenches won't work.
Hose Bib Question
- Thread starter Marc46
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Thanks for the feedback, but seriously, I don't think mine have a set screw that was broken off. I sand papered the thing clean as a whistle and saw no place where there could have been any type of set screw. It was smooth all around. I guess I can try cutting it off if no one thinks a couple of pipe wrenches won't work.
In my situation, my garden is above the hose bibb, so everytime I shut it off, the hose back drains out of the top. It will work as you describe (let air in, if the hose is lower).
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Ladiesman271
Homeowner
- Messages
- 220
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
Some of those valves are screwed on, and some are soldered on the water pipe inside the wall. Same valve, different installation method.
You can not unscrew a valve that is soldered to the water pipe. You have to get inside the wall it the valve is soldered to the pipe.
I have no idea what anyone is talking about as far as a set screw is concerned. When I installed my valve, I screwed the valve on to the pipe fitting, and used two wood screws to attach the bib to the wall.
Last edited:
I'm talking about thee anti-syphon valve located (screwed on) on the bib where you would normally screw on the female end of a hose, not the bib itself. I know some of those are screwed on and some are soldered on.
arrowhead?
there is a brand out there, i think it was arrowhead, at one time their vac breaker screwed onto the hose outlet without a set screw, just really tightened onto the faucet body, it met code at the time i believe because the threads that the vac breaker screwed onto the faucet were specific to the vb and a hose would not screw onto, if the vb finally unscrews and the threads on the faucet are smaller than regular hose threads you will need to source the proper vb, arrowhead typically has a green oval metal handle
there is a brand out there, i think it was arrowhead, at one time their vac breaker screwed onto the hose outlet without a set screw, just really tightened onto the faucet body, it met code at the time i believe because the threads that the vac breaker screwed onto the faucet were specific to the vb and a hose would not screw onto, if the vb finally unscrews and the threads on the faucet are smaller than regular hose threads you will need to source the proper vb, arrowhead typically has a green oval metal handle
Dunbar Plumbing
Master Plumber
Yes,
ArrowHead Brass
Fine thread so no one can connect to that faucet unless there's a vaccum breaker on it.
Lots of these valves still in use in my area, even though they are not sold here anymore. A passing phase just like when HD quit selling those B&K Quartermasters that I installed probably 300 over the past 5 years.
Themp
Active Member
My whole neighborhood has these devices on all the outdoor bibs. Over time they have failed and most neighbors have removed them. The city I live in required these per code. They also required a backflow value on irrigation systems. But the catch was, they only knew you needed a backflow value if you added a separate irrigation meter. Those neighbors that put in their own irrigation system and tied into their house water supply usually never added a backflow value. So what we have hear is a system that no one can monitor or make sure is safe. This is what Marc46 is basically complaining about, rules that are not enforceable to keep the main water supply safe.
So, what the city does a few years ago is come back in and add a backflow value to all meters in the system. This seems reasonable. They also have stopped requiring that irrigation system backflow values be tested every three years(around 80 dollar charge).
So at this point you can make yourself sick but from a city standpoint you cannot go any further. Well, the city backflow device can fail too, as nothing is absolute.
Tom
So, what the city does a few years ago is come back in and add a backflow value to all meters in the system. This seems reasonable. They also have stopped requiring that irrigation system backflow values be tested every three years(around 80 dollar charge).
So at this point you can make yourself sick but from a city standpoint you cannot go any further. Well, the city backflow device can fail too, as nothing is absolute.
Tom
Thanks for your response. What I did find was that the anti-syphon device did not have a set screw, I was able to unscrew it and went to Home Depot and bought a replacement which did have a set screw. The anti-syphon device was attached with fine threads to a coupling type device attached to the hose bib. The coupling was also attached w/ fine thread to the hose bib and with loc-tite. As I found out later after I had cut the coupling off, the coupling did not need to come off. A plumber gave me a hose bib with the coupling still on it and I used the vice and a pipe wrench to get it off and then put it on the hose bib I cut the other coupling off from. I did not want to have to replace the hose bib, all the pipeing is behind bricks! I hope all this makes sense. Thanks, Bob
Hi,
First.... I'm a plumbing rube, but I've done some research and pretty well understand the anti-siphon thing (also entertaining reading!).
I live on an island, so any repairs are not easy and costly. Both my anti-siphon hose bibbs are doing that leaking, squirting thing. I went under the house and saw what looks like a copper or brass threaded connector between the water line and shaft (about 8" long?) of the unit; I don't think it's a soldered connection because there are soldered joints just before it, and it looks nothing like them (I didn't think copper had threads, so I'm not sure what kind of a fitting it actually is!). The place closest to me has units that have a chrome (plated brass?) type of shaft. Might these work on whatever I have? Sorry for the stupidity, but I can do a lot of repairs if I know what I'm supposed to do, and assumed someone can understand what I'm saying. Just thought I'd throw this out and get some more info before the trek to the supply center.
Thanks!
First.... I'm a plumbing rube, but I've done some research and pretty well understand the anti-siphon thing (also entertaining reading!).
I live on an island, so any repairs are not easy and costly. Both my anti-siphon hose bibbs are doing that leaking, squirting thing. I went under the house and saw what looks like a copper or brass threaded connector between the water line and shaft (about 8" long?) of the unit; I don't think it's a soldered connection because there are soldered joints just before it, and it looks nothing like them (I didn't think copper had threads, so I'm not sure what kind of a fitting it actually is!). The place closest to me has units that have a chrome (plated brass?) type of shaft. Might these work on whatever I have? Sorry for the stupidity, but I can do a lot of repairs if I know what I'm supposed to do, and assumed someone can understand what I'm saying. Just thought I'd throw this out and get some more info before the trek to the supply center.
Thanks!
Redwood
Master Plumber
Most are like this and can either thread into a female adapter or they can also be sweated on...
Most are like this and can either thread into a female adapter or they can also be sweated on...
Thanks for the reply... so it's a brass coupler on the copper pipe connected to a plated brass unit?
Redwood
Master Plumber
I dunno... I can't see it!
If you could post a picture I would be able to...
If you could post a picture I would be able to...
I dunno... I can't see it!
If you could post a picture I would be able to...
Sorry... excuse the photo-very cramped and dark space!
I'm assuming the threaded fitting from the copper water line (on the left) and the extension of the bib (on the right) are both brass-although my unit is not zinc plated. That's what I'm trying to verify. So... all of these units must be brass.... would the threads be the same on all of these?
Redwood
Master Plumber
Beautiful!
The copper with the flat nut surfaces is the female adapter.
Shut the water off to that line and make sure its off.
You can get wrench on the female adapter to hold it in place while you unthread the hose bibb from it...
You need to get one the same length...
They do come in different lengths...
The copper with the flat nut surfaces is the female adapter.
Shut the water off to that line and make sure its off.
You can get wrench on the female adapter to hold it in place while you unthread the hose bibb from it...
You need to get one the same length...
They do come in different lengths...
Great! Can the shaft be unthreaded from outside-or could that ruin the threads? Do you use a wrench at the adapter end of the bibb? Use plumbers tape?
Thanks again!!
Redwood
Master Plumber
It's a good idea to have someone inside with a wrench on the female adapter to keep the stress off the pipes.
You can spin the hose bibb from outside.
Teflon tape wrapping the male threads with teflon dope over it.
You can spin the hose bibb from outside.
Teflon tape wrapping the male threads with teflon dope over it.
Thanks again!
Similar threads
