Plumbs Away
Active Member
I have been touting the Sani Seal as the latest best thing, but have encountered an issue. About six months ago, I reset a bowl for a friend using the Sani Seal. The friend I did the work for recently decided to tile the bathroom floor. When I pulled the toilet, the Sani Seal had, in the relatively short period, substantially deteriorated. The inside seam on the flat side had separated and the foam under the vinyl cover was water-logged. Left undisturbed, it might have continued to work well for years, but who knows? Just wanted to pass this info on. I think the better options for waxless are the red Korky 6000PK
or the blue Fluidmaster 7530
because the seal is not sheathed in vinyl.
On a different note, I have recently done two late model Kohler Wellworth Highline rebuilds. The first was a 1.6 GPF with the canister flush valve and DryLock tank-to-bowl connection. I replaced the canister with a Kohler 1024385 flapper-type flush valve
and the toilet works much better now than when new.
Just last week, yet another friend with a Kohler Wellworth Highline Classic 1.28 GPF was experiencing canister leaking and weak flush, and I thought the same rebuild was in order. Wrong! This model has a 2-inch diameter canister, as opposed to the 3-inch valve on the 1.6 GPF. I got a generic 2-inch flush valve and the red Fluidmaster flapper and did not get satisfactory flushing results. Since the rigid black plastic frame on the Fluidmaster flapper obviously adds weight, I went with the less heavy red 2-inch Korky premium flapper. The position of the flush lever on these Kohler models is such that I had to do quite a bit of tweaking to get everything to operate properly. It now works 100% better than before. If you have one of these toilets (this one being a Kohler Highline Classic Complete Solution from Lowe's), and want to do this rebuild, my suggestion is to use the Korky 4030PK flush valve kit.
You should, however, reuse your existing tank bolts since they are brass and the ones included with the kit are not and will eventually rust badly. Also, position the valve in the toilet so that the front (round side) of the flapper is at the 6 o'clock position and adjust the overflow tube and fill valve so that the water level is as high as possible without reaching the safety/vent hole in the back of the tank. The flapper closes very quickly, but the flush has more gumption than with the canister.
I hope this info is helpful to my fellow DIYers!
or the blue Fluidmaster 7530
because the seal is not sheathed in vinyl.
On a different note, I have recently done two late model Kohler Wellworth Highline rebuilds. The first was a 1.6 GPF with the canister flush valve and DryLock tank-to-bowl connection. I replaced the canister with a Kohler 1024385 flapper-type flush valve
and the toilet works much better now than when new.
Just last week, yet another friend with a Kohler Wellworth Highline Classic 1.28 GPF was experiencing canister leaking and weak flush, and I thought the same rebuild was in order. Wrong! This model has a 2-inch diameter canister, as opposed to the 3-inch valve on the 1.6 GPF. I got a generic 2-inch flush valve and the red Fluidmaster flapper and did not get satisfactory flushing results. Since the rigid black plastic frame on the Fluidmaster flapper obviously adds weight, I went with the less heavy red 2-inch Korky premium flapper. The position of the flush lever on these Kohler models is such that I had to do quite a bit of tweaking to get everything to operate properly. It now works 100% better than before. If you have one of these toilets (this one being a Kohler Highline Classic Complete Solution from Lowe's), and want to do this rebuild, my suggestion is to use the Korky 4030PK flush valve kit.
You should, however, reuse your existing tank bolts since they are brass and the ones included with the kit are not and will eventually rust badly. Also, position the valve in the toilet so that the front (round side) of the flapper is at the 6 o'clock position and adjust the overflow tube and fill valve so that the water level is as high as possible without reaching the safety/vent hole in the back of the tank. The flapper closes very quickly, but the flush has more gumption than with the canister.
I hope this info is helpful to my fellow DIYers!
