Honeywell Aquastat Settings

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by JoeD, Dec 14, 2005.

  1. JoeD

    JoeD New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Thanks for Your Help HOW DO I DELETE THIS??????????
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2005
  2. pkrsiak

    pkrsiak New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Ours is GV-5, the same manufacturer like yours. I keep the settings to 155ºF -180ºF since the installation for about 15 years. I think the low is predetermined automatically. These settings are easier on the system and you will save some money, maintain higher temperature is more expensive. However, if you desire quicker rooms warm up is OK to set the limit higher. In same cases when the heat loss is too extensive you may have no choice, just keep on higher limit.

    I need to know if your boiler has a sealed combustion before I will try to answer the second issue.
    I hope this will help.

    Best,

    Pavel
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2005
  3. dubldare

    dubldare Plumber/Gasfitter

    Messages:
    286
    Location:
    MN/ND
    http://customer.honeywell.com/Techlit/Pdf/60-0000s/60-2061.pdf


    I'd keep your high limit setting around 200-210.

    As far as operating temp, with baseboard heat, I'd top out at 190 max, radiators 160. This will vary depending on your differential setting.

    One can have alot of trouble with running a boiler to cool. Not only for condensation purposes, but also for adequate combustion of the fuel. Generally speaking, a 'hotter' boiler will burn much cleaner (emissions wise) than a cooler one. Such settings can really only be known by evaluating your houses heat load, size of radiation and location, boiler size, combustion efficiency and circulator size/flow rate.
  4. dubldare

    dubldare Plumber/Gasfitter

    Messages:
    286
    Location:
    MN/ND

    Without knowing a lot of info on your set-up, I'll throw out a laundry list of potential issues.

    Thermostat heat anticipator, faulty circulation pump (more common than one might think), low water pressure (leading to inadequate circulation), faulty high limit control (if another exists besides the aquastat), loss of flame sense/poor pilot flame (particularly White-Rogers mercury systems), flame roll-out switch (dirty boiler/ if equipped), weak 24v transformer/low voltage wiring, weak coil in gas valve, poor gas pressure, partially plugged flue (induced draft systems). That all I can guess off the top of my head.
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,237
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    relay

    That is probably a combination aquastat/high limit control. The high is where the safety would kick in to turn the burner off. The low is the normal operating temperature and the diff is the amount that the temperature will change, usually downward, before the burner starts again. Before changing the relay you should have checked it and everything else to find out the real problem. You still have to do that, but there are many possibilities, low circulation being one of the most likely, although your on/off cycles seem to be to short for that.
  6. JoeD

    JoeD New Member

    Messages:
    9
    pkrsiak Sealed or UNsealed Combustion ???????

    Not Sure!
    I can open up a hole on the front of the boiler to see flame is that
    sealed or unsealed combustion.

    Thanks

    Pavel
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2005
  7. pkrsiak

    pkrsiak New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Is your boiler direct vent? If is then you most likely have a sealed combustion. There are sensors controlling for a proper air-gas ratio. If one of them is insufficient or the exhaust is blocked the system will shut down, or the sensors could be faulty
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    Normally, a sealed system is just that, you can't see the burner in operation.
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