Honeywell Aquastat Settings

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JoeD

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Thanks for Your Help HOW DO I DELETE THIS??????????
 
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pkrsiak

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Ours is GV-5, the same manufacturer like yours. I keep the settings to 155ºF -180ºF since the installation for about 15 years. I think the low is predetermined automatically. These settings are easier on the system and you will save some money, maintain higher temperature is more expensive. However, if you desire quicker rooms warm up is OK to set the limit higher. In same cases when the heat loss is too extensive you may have no choice, just keep on higher limit.

I need to know if your boiler has a sealed combustion before I will try to answer the second issue.
I hope this will help.

Best,

Pavel
 
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Dubldare

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http://customer.honeywell.com/Techlit/Pdf/60-0000s/60-2061.pdf

OPERATION
High Limit Controller
The high limit opens and turns off the burner when the
water temperature reaches the set point. The high limit
automatically resets after the water temperature drops
past the set point and through the 10°F (6°C) differential.
Low Limit and Circulator Controllers
On a temperature rise, with the adjustable differential at the
minimum setting of 10°F (°C), the burner circuit (R-B) breaks
and the circulator circuit (R-W) makes at the control set point.
On a temperature drop of 10° F (6°C) below the set point, the
R-B circuit makes and the R-W circuit breaks. See Fig. 22.
At any differential setting greater than 10°F (6°C), the R-B
make temperature and R-W break temperature will remain the
same (control setting minus 10°F (6°C). The R-B break and
R-W make temperature will be the set point temperature plus
the difference between the differential setting and 10°F (6°C).
EXAMPLE:Set point of 140°F (60°C) differential set at 25°F
(14°C). On a temperature rise, R-B will break and R-W will
make at 155°F (68°C). On a temperature fall, R-B will make
and R-W will break at 130°F (54°C).


I'd keep your high limit setting around 200-210.

As far as operating temp, with baseboard heat, I'd top out at 190 max, radiators 160. This will vary depending on your differential setting.

One can have alot of trouble with running a boiler to cool. Not only for condensation purposes, but also for adequate combustion of the fuel. Generally speaking, a 'hotter' boiler will burn much cleaner (emissions wise) than a cooler one. Such settings can really only be known by evaluating your houses heat load, size of radiation and location, boiler size, combustion efficiency and circulator size/flow rate.
 

Dubldare

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I replaced the Relay because my burner clicks on Ignites for 30-90Sec and then pops off. I STILL have this problem (ie Burner Turns Off after short run time) HELP!!!


Without knowing a lot of info on your set-up, I'll throw out a laundry list of potential issues.

Thermostat heat anticipator, faulty circulation pump (more common than one might think), low water pressure (leading to inadequate circulation), faulty high limit control (if another exists besides the aquastat), loss of flame sense/poor pilot flame (particularly White-Rogers mercury systems), flame roll-out switch (dirty boiler/ if equipped), weak 24v transformer/low voltage wiring, weak coil in gas valve, poor gas pressure, partially plugged flue (induced draft systems). That all I can guess off the top of my head.
 

hj

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relay

That is probably a combination aquastat/high limit control. The high is where the safety would kick in to turn the burner off. The low is the normal operating temperature and the diff is the amount that the temperature will change, usually downward, before the burner starts again. Before changing the relay you should have checked it and everything else to find out the real problem. You still have to do that, but there are many possibilities, low circulation being one of the most likely, although your on/off cycles seem to be to short for that.
 

JoeD

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pkrsiak Sealed or UNsealed Combustion ???????

Not Sure!
I can open up a hole on the front of the boiler to see flame is that
sealed or unsealed combustion.

Thanks

Pavel
 
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pkrsiak

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Is your boiler direct vent? If is then you most likely have a sealed combustion. There are sensors controlling for a proper air-gas ratio. If one of them is insufficient or the exhaust is blocked the system will shut down, or the sensors could be faulty
 

Jadnashua

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Normally, a sealed system is just that, you can't see the burner in operation.
 
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