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Hunter01

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Not sure where to post this, but have received great advice on other topics here, so here goes: I'd like to install a local (no connection to the police/fire) alarm system in my house. One that would detect movement inside the house and sound an alarm. Any advice on a good system; one that's reliable - I've done some searching on-line but find the reviews full of systems that aren't.
 

DIYer101

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I'm not a security expert (just DIYer) so do plenty of research... but I set up a basic system with MiCasaVerde.

Any of the z-wave networks might do what you want, but MCV sounded the most customizable, and I was willing to do some of the programming. If you want it to be easy and simple, you can say: if it's night, and the motion detectors sense motion, make the alarm go off (maybe only sound the alarm for a few minutes unless you really want to get the neighbors' attention).

It's not 100% reliable. In my mind it's 95% good and that's good enough given all the tradeoffs. I just want something that (almost always - and hopefully that'll be never...) will make the standard intruder decide that he's made a mistake and head elsewhere. If an FBI agent wants to rob us, I figure we've got bigger problems. We're not interesting targets - I mostly did it for when I'm away and my wife is home alone.

I can tell you that whenever I forget to disarm the system and I go wandering into areas that are monitored, the alarm always goes off. But it's a computer, and glitches are possible.

Equipment you'd need:
- A "brain" or z-wave hub (MCV or Smarthings or whatever brand you choose). Maybe $100 or so
- Motion detectors (and/or window/door sensors). About $40 each
- A siren. Maybe $50

I've also set up light switches and do the porchlights on timers (and have a few motion detectors set outside, even though they're not built for that - they're under the eaves). All that is controlled by the z-wave hub.

Edited to add: you can have it send you text messages if you're a halfway decent programmer. There's a really good user group to help figure it out. So you could notify a neighbor or other "helper" if you have an alert, or just find out which motion detector went off.
 

JerryR

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I would not rule out having a central station monitored system rather than just a noise maker. Most times the insurance savings more than pays for the monitoring fees.


A good DIY alarm forum to get started at is:

http://www.shieldlab.com/forum/


Getting a reliable real alarm like a Honeywell or DSC system and installing it yourself is very possible. There are many wireless solutions if you don’t want to run wires. Lots of youtube videos on setup and installation.


I have self installed systems in 4 of my homes and each was central station monitored and had text alerts to my cell phone. I currently use alarmrelay.com for monitoring. It was $35 set up fee and $8.95/mo (paid annually) for full phone line monitoring. My insurance savings is $150/yr and the service costs me $107/yr for phone line monitoring. Recently I added Cellular connection to central station so my fee when up to $15.95/mo which includes full interactive control via iPhone.


I expanded it to include cameras, text messaging and Z-Wave controls. Real cool stuff.


I was fortunate that each house was previously wired for alarm at every door, window motion detectors so I just installed new keypads and new control panel.


Smoke detectors connected to central station is very worthwhile.
 

DonL

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I have some Foscam IP cameras that have built in servers that can store or upload video. Can stream video to a phone too. $100 can get you one. You do need a internet connection for FTP uploading, and email warnings.

The best alarm warning for inside the house is the sound of a 12 Gauge Shotgun Racking a 00 round, And good hardware to deliver the Buck Load.

Have Fun Everyone.
 

JerryR

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I've currently have 3 fixed outdoor Foscam cameras and 5 indoor point, tilt and zoom Foscam IP cameras. They cost between $50-$100 each. They are OK. Occasionally one or two drop off line for a while but fir the price they are a good value.

I had a few at my other hone that I was selling a few months ago and someone broke in. I was monitoring them and recording anytime motion was detected from 300 miles away. I had cancelled central station monitoring while the house was being shown by realtors but was still getting texts from the alarm. My alarm went off one day and I got a text from the alarm. I pulled up the camera on my PC running a program called Blue Iris, and played back the recorded video. The guy walked in, took 3 steps and the motion detector tripped the alarm. As soon as the siren went off he made a u-turn and exited. I called the police and sent them the picture below.

A 12 gauge is only of value when your on site. ;)
 

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DonL

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A 12 gauge is only of value when your on site. ;)

That is true for the most part. Even if you are not there a recorded sound is good. Big dog barking is one of my favorites.
The Gov does not allow for remote shooting in some states. Nor does it allow you to record audio in some states. I think that is BS. We can not Boobie Trap or Open Carry without a license here.

Maybe The Donald will get things straight, And get the price of ammo and pork down so we can afford to make some Machine Gun Bacon.

I heard that Blue Iris is nice. I have not tried it. I like to write my own code when I can, More secure that way.

One thing that I found about the Foscam cameras with the 5V adapters, The lost WiFi connect problem goes away on 6V power. 1 Volt can make a big difference on Wifi range and the SD read errors Too.

The 12V stuff is OK, My outdoor IP Dome is 12V and even has a real NTSC output.

Enjoy.
 
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JerryR

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One thing that I found about the Foscam cameras with the 5V adapters, The lost WiFi connect problem goes away on 6V power. 1 Volt can make a big difference on Wifi range and the SD read errors Too..

Don,

Thanks for the 5-6v tip. I suspected that the Foscam had critical voltage requirements since after adding a 10 foot extension one outdoor camera was loosing wifi more often. I'm going to order another wall wart with selectable voltage and give it a try.
 

DonL

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Don,

Thanks for the 5-6v tip. I suspected that the Foscam had critical voltage requirements since after adding a 10 foot extension one outdoor camera was loosing wifi more often. I'm going to order another wall wart with selectable voltage and give it a try.

If you look close at some of those extension cables, They are rated for use at 12V. Normally the connector is different, but not always.

At 5V, the current is more than double, so the voltage drop is >2X.

10 feet is not much of a problem, But 20 feet may be.

6 Volts will help for sure, I would not go above 7.5v. The IR LEDs may not be happy for very long.

Have Fun.
 
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