hole making for recessed lighting

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samlin7

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Hi

I am installing about 16 - 6" recessed lights and would like to purchase a bit to make the hole. However I think my ceiling material is rock lath and it has killed my drywall blades and reciprocal saw blades.

Is there anything out there that can at least last through 16 cuts? I bout the REMGRIT 6" RECESSED LIGHT INSTALLATION KIT - Here is a link to a store that has it http://www.tradetufftools.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=217_237&products_id=1605
It it made with carbide and the guy at HD said it should work.

However another HD had a greenlee hole cutter here is a link of a store that has it
http://www.gizmosindustrial.com/servlet/the-26442/Detail

SO my question is will any of these 2 make it through 16 hole cuts? I am not asking for much, but that's all I am asking for. Anybody has experience with these things?

Thanks
 

Leejosepho

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Carbide should not be necessary unless you anticipate hitting a nail or two, but you should definitely have a bi-metal hole saw rather than mere HSS (high-speed steel) version. I regularly use bi-metal hole saws of various sizes to cut holes in steel as much as 1/2" thick, and they usually last quite a while.

Note: Steel blades are actually sharper than carbide blades. Carbide is just tougher. Your biggest problem is probabaly going to be hanging on to a drill motor powerful enough to keep a 6+" hole saw spinning!
 
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samlin7

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So looking at the greenlee website I found they have 2 versions of their drill bit
http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=35713

Steel and carbide. I saw one at HD for steel but i bought the remgrit carbide bit (which i intend to return).

I want to use it tomorrow so if i go with steel then I will go with the greenlee if i need carbide i will go with remgrit (unless I see a greenlee carbide bit) Or if I can find lenox bit.

I am just not sure if the greenlee steel bit is bi-metal or not. So if i am not sure if it is bimetal should i just stick with my remgrit carbide bit? OR is the bimetal bit much better then carbide in cutting the holes?

Thanks
 

Statjunk

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I've done lots of those. Use the Remgrit hole saw. Any of the metal teeth blades will dull after about 3 holes. Double check the sizing to make sure it will work with whatever escuchen you use because the Remgrit blades open a slightly larger hole than what the blade indicates it will. I'm sure it will be fine but I wanted to throw that out there.

Tom
 

Alectrician

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Don't let it knock you off the ladder :D

I prefer to use a right angle drill on low speed for can holes.You can get better leverage.
 

Jadnashua

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Lath is nasty stuff to cut...the plaster is easy. GO slow, or you'll catch and wrench things, could throw you or tear a chunk out of the ceiling.
 

samlin7

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So i used the Remgrit and it worked nicely,

The only drawback i had was that I used new construction Halo 6" and my joists were not evenly spaced, so i had to run out and buy some old construction high hats. So in my ceiling i got 3 new and 3 old construction high hats. I am just sticking with old construction stuff for now on. Makes life so much easier.

I don't think my body was made to contour the way it did in the attic space. (i own a ranch house)
 

Leejosepho

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Been there, done that :(, but no blood or broken bones. Those D-handle Milwaukees don't stop for nothing!

My initiation to hole-sawing took place inside travel-trailer bathrooms while drilling holes for toilets at about 13, and the biggest problem I had was later getting those marks from my flying shoes off the walls!
 

elkhornson

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Hole Pro adjustable hole cutters

My guys use the Hole Pro adjustable hole cutters for recessed light cans (and for exhaust fans, skylights, ceiling speakers, HVAC outlets, vent pipes) and they work fantastic. They take a lot less power to operate than a hole saw and you can adjust them to the size you need for any can made. On the same job we often install a combination of can sizes and being able to make the cut any size is a real blessing.

The shield has ball bearing to support the hole cutter so it is always straight when it makes the cut and the shield catches all the sheetrock dust and the plug. It makes it a lot easier and a lot faster for the operator and greatly reduces the prep and cleanup time.

One of my carpenters had to cut 18 holes 6-5/8" diameter for light cans in a 5/8" thick wood tongue and groove ceiling. It took him less than an hour to cut all 18 holes and the edges were perfectly clean with no burn marks or splintered wood. And he did it with a regular 18 volt Milwaukee cordless drill on a single charge of its old NiCad battery. We were both really impressed.

Check out their website at www.holepro.com. Cool tools!

John
 
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