Help with kitchen plumbing remodel

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Abikerboy

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Hi
Im back for some more advice. I am doing a major remodel of my kitchen, and want to place a dishwasher under an island counter opposite my kitchen sink. I know how to connect the dishwasher drain line through an air brake when it is beside the sink, but how do I do this if it is opposite my sink? All plumbing will have to be done from the crawl space. I will have a cabinet which will run all of the way from countertop to ceiling, and my electrical wiring for my outlets, downdraft vent, and cooktop will be hid in this cabinet, so if I need a vent, I have a nice place to hide it all the way to the roof. I also have a 4" drain line beneath the floor (crawl space) where the island counter will be placed. This line runs all of the way from the guest bath, and also connects to the kitchen and laundry room, and goes into a wye fitting from the master bath and a sink in my mud room, and from there into my septic line. Thanks in advance.
Rob
 

Verdeboy

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There have been several threads here recently that discuss the pros and cons of dishwasher air gaps. Many people here, including myself, believe that high looping the drain is perfectly acceptable for residential applications.
 

hj

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air gap

"HIgh looping" a DW drain line applies to it being connected to an "open" connection such as a disposer or branch tailpiece. In this situation, there would have to be an open riser pipe for the dishwasher drain to be "looped" into. It cannot be directly connected to the drain line, and the riser pipe would have to be high enough so that it would not overflow in the event of a stopped main pipe.
 

Abikerboy

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Hi
Thanks for the replies. Hj, do you mean a standpipe sort of like the drain for a washing machine? I assume that I should vent it to the roof and use a trap just as I would any fixture. I will probably do the supply lines myself (my house is plumbed throughout with white pvc on the cold side, and tan cpvc on the hot side...easy enough to cut and glue for a tap), but I think that I will go ahead and hire a plumber to do the waste side. Im just curious as to how this will be done. Verdeboy, I guess I agree both with an air gap, and with a high loop. My original install was a high loop into my disposer. Never had a problem, or a backup with either. When I refinanced several years ago, I had to have an inspection done, and I had to remove the high loop and install the air gap because of the disposer. Have had no problems with the air gap either.
Thanks
Rob
 

Verdeboy

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abikerboy said:
When I refinanced several years ago, I had to have an inspection done, and I had to remove the high loop and install the air gap because of the disposer. Have had no problems with the air gap either.
Thanks Rob

Codes vary from state to state. I guess you live in an "air gap state.":cool:
 

Abikerboy

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Hey there!
I posted yesterday, but never recieved a reply. Hj spoke of a standpipe for the island dishwasher. Is this anything like a standpipe for a washing machine? If so, will it have to be vented, and have a trap as any other fixture does? My washing machine has a standpipe that is 38" tall, is vented to the roof, has a trap under the floor in the crawl space and is 2" pipe. Would I need something like this, or would the pipe into the main sewer line be smaller, 3/4" maybe, and tied solid and sealed to my dishwasher drain line via reducer coupler? Verdeboy, inspector here said that high loop is allowed in an open drain connection, but with disposer I have to use an air gap because the disposer presents a possible backup and clog possibility. Air gap or high loop may be irrelevant in my new connection since I am installing the d/w in a new location, and away from any plumbing source. I dont see the big deal either way. In event of a clog and backup with either, bleach the dishwasher, run an empty cycle, and forget it. Whats your opinion?
Thanks
Rob
 
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