Help with Culligan WG844 settings

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Cameron Darlington

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Water has been pretty hard lately, and I wondered if the settings on my softener got lost from a power outage. It's only 7 years old and seems like it shouldn't need to be replaced yet. The water will feel soft for a while, and then get pretty hard before it runs a regen.

These are what I found

SLtP 10
buu 10
br 70
CAPG 110

Not sure what they used to be. I live in Davis County Utah, and we have extremely hard water, or so I've been told by the guy that set this up initially.

I realize the problem may not be in the settings, but I figure that's the easiest thing to start with. It is drawing brine, but very slowly. Wish I knew how hard the flow from brine tank should be :/
 

Cameron Darlington

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Any thing change in the last few months or when you started noticing hard water?

Salt usage up or down from the past?

Salt dose looks to be 10lbs and the capacity or gallons that it can treat is 1100.
Here is a link for the manual, if you do not already have one.

http://eculligan.com/service-manuals//medallist2003.PDF?path=support/medallist2003.PDF

We ran out of salt completely. Refilled it and then noticed it wasn't drawing brine at all. Took off that metal plate at the top of the system and cleaned some things out. Ran a regen again and it started drawing brine this time (pretty slow flow, but I don't know how strong it was before either). Started getting soft water again, but having the issues I stated above now that it doesn't seem to stay soft all the time.

A while before this happened as well, we noticed some foul smell from the water, so I dumped a little bleach in the brine tank. I've since noticed that rust is forming on some metal washers resting on the float :( because of the bleach.

I should also note that we had a power failure around the same time while a regen was running. Not sure if this would cause anything or not.

This is about all I can think of.
 

Akpsdvan

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Did you take the parts out from their home under the metal plate and clean them? There is a screen and then there is the holder tan most likely and then the nozzle which could be blue or tan and make sure it was free and clear?
On the screen was there any build up?
For the Culligan there is another screen but it is on the brine piston assembly that has its piston on top of the motor that hooks under the white egg like cam on top of the motor and it is a real pain to get to but if that screen is loaded then it will not draw like it should.

If the brine draw is not good then the resin will not get a full charge and thus you will get about half way through a normal run before the hard water starts to show up again.

The link that Reach sent has a full parts break down of the valve and its parts that show where the brine piston and its cage are at, they all them Repl Eductor Sleeve...... but it is the brine piston and its assembly.

next question?
 
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