HELP!! Veritek pan with full frameless glass panel & door issue/question...

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by mrdujour, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. mrdujour

    mrdujour New Member

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    Apr 7, 2011
    Location:
    Northern California
    I am in final stages of remodeling my bathroom. I replaced the tub/shower combo with a 32x60 Veritek pan. I am installing a 3/8" thick full-frameless tempered glass door and panel. While the door is fully supported by the wall, the panel sits in a deep u-channel that is connected to the wall and the curb of the pan. The curb is hollow with a few molded cross braces, and about 1/4" thick. With no wood support under the curb, there is nothing to screw the channel to...will the curb itself be enough to hold a heavy glass panel in place? The curb's bottom outside edge is butted up tight to the floor tiles, so it holds my weight (210 lbs) when I step on it without flexing outward, but I am wary of the thin curb wall holding the u-channel in place over time. Was thinking some kind of epoxy in conjunction with long screws that sink into subfloor may be sufficient, but I don't know what to do, really. Any ideas from experienced builder or DIYer would be welcome! In other words, HELP!!! DIYer in crisis!
     

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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2011
  2. Basement_Lurker

    Basement_Lurker One who lurks

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    That wood wall transition you used to finish off your tile edge really was a poor choice.

    The "u-channel" that sits on top of your pan isn't really meant to be secured by just a couple of tiny screws. You need a heavy layer of silicone to adhere the hardware to the pan, as well as make it watertight. I sure hope you added extra framing studs and braces since you are using such a heavy glass enclosure.

    Btw, nice job on the bathroom so far.
     
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  4. mrdujour

    mrdujour New Member

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    Thanks for the kudos. The wood transition actually sits about 3" outside of the shower glass, although you can't really tell from the photos. I wanted the tile to extend beyond the shower walls (i.e., the glass) just a bit, and the walnut actually looks very nice. Won't get wet at all. Anyway, I have never installed glass like this before, and my main concern is whether the Veritek is strong enough to handle the job. The instructions I received with the doors says to screw (w/#6 screws) the channel to the shower curb, with (I think) the assumption that the curb is tiled over wood and cement board. Given that mine is not, and is hollow on the inside, I'm not sure what to do. Obviously, I will need to silicone all points where water has a chance to penetrate. Are you saying that silicone alone is enough to hold it all in place? And yes, I have doubled-up studs on both sides where the curb meets the wall. The real bear is gonna be drilling through the porcelain floor tiles that make up the side walls of the enclosure!
     
  5. K.

    K. New Member

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    I had a similar configuration. The glass is the one thing I didn't install myself, but I have that kerdi foam curb so the bottom uchannel is just held in place with little plugs in the tile, not screwed down into anything solid. As noted, the silicone does the actual job of securing things. Re porcelain, I think I spent close to 2 hours of total drilling time and went through a total of 7 bits from 3 different manufacturers to get 6 holes drilled for the toilet flange... there has got to be an easier way but I sure don't know it. Also, I put my toilet in after the glass... do you have enough room to work there?
     
  6. mrdujour

    mrdujour New Member

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    Yeah, I think so. The photo seems to make everything look closer together than it really is. Saying that, it's still gonna be tight during certain points. I hear the secret to drilling porcelain is to use a spade bit and lots of water, but I guess I'll find out! It worked with the hole saw I used to cut the valve openings for the shower mixer...I suppose I should stock up on bits, just to be on the safe side!
     
  7. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Porcelain can be nearly as hard as diamond (synthetic saphire). So, other than abraiding it away, you really need a diamond bit to cut it. A diamond core bit works, but you need to keep the bit wet with a spray bottle on the vertical (on the horizontal, you can make a dam out of plumber's putty and fill that with a little water). A decent one should make a dozen or more holes, a commercial one lots more. Lowes sells some made by Hitachi that aren't bad.
     
  8. mrdujour

    mrdujour New Member

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    Yep, I picked up a couple today. A company called "Diamond Sure". I'll have to use a spray bottle since the tiles are mounted vertically, but I think I've got this one licked! Slow and easy is the name of the game. Fairly confident about mounting the u-channel on the curb, as well. Thanks for all the input, guys! Really appreciate it....
     
  9. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple BATHROOM DESIGN & BUILD for both Canada & the US

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    Occupation:
    Design Work World Wide: Bathrooms Vancouver Area
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    North Vancouver, BC
    Nice looking shower.

    Your shower curb should be able to take the weight of your glass panel without any concerns. You might consider some wall mount fasters for the side and only siliconing a bottom U Channel in place.

    Check with your glazer.

    John Whipple
    By Any Design Ltd.

    North Vancouver
     
  10. hopes2

    hopes2 New Member

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    Wales, WI
    Siliconed fixed panel works just fine. Receptor is CI so no drilling is the way to go.

    They make a core drill kit with attached water supply works well on porcelain.
     

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  11. mrdujour

    mrdujour New Member

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    Apr 7, 2011
    Location:
    Northern California
    Ahhh! A picture is worth a thousand words! It's nice to see what my own bathroom is about to become (basically)! I am a bit further along than previous photos show, updated pic below...now, I'm off to complete a few details that keep me from installing that glass!
     

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