[Help] Pump continuously cycles

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Mike Lynn

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We recently purchase a house that is on a well and have had nothing but problems. Soon after we moved in both pumps went out and needed to be replaced. With the help of a neighbor I was able to get everything installed and more or less working.

One of the issues we still have is that the well pump that fills the aerator continuously cycles. It turns on for about 1-2 seconds every 4-6 seconds. Looking at the pressure gauge shows that it looses pressure which turns on the pump. The pressure switch is set for 30/50.

My neighbor that helped me said that the 4 gallon pressure tank was too small and was the issue but a pump guy that I had come out said that it was fine.

Here's a illustration that I put together to show how the pumps are set up. I'm guessing at the pressure tank sizes as they are old and the writing has worn off.

I tried turning off the #1 off valve to see if that made any difference but it didn't except for not letting the pump pull in water when it cycled back on.

Any insights? Thanks!


L5D3DtH.png
 

ThirdGenPump

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Your radon unit isn't taking water correctly.

I don't know what you have for a unit and there are some different ways of controlling how it draws water. It sounds like the full valve isn't opening completely.

With the radon units you can normally run a small tank as the well pump isn't triggered to run based on your use, it only turns on to refill the tank which is a large amount of water at once.
 

Mike Lynn

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Thanks for the reply. I don't think I have a radon unit though, unless it's part of the pumps?
 

ThirdGenPump

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Thanks for the reply. I don't think I have a radon unit though, unless it's part of the pumps?

The aeration unit. Pretty much the only reason you'd use an atmospheric aeration unit in my area. Do you know what it's being used to take out?
 

Mike Lynn

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Pretty sure it's just for the sulfur smell. Nothing in it except for a float valve.

Although another issues that's going on is it looks like the float valve is failing. It's consistently overfilling and leaking out the screens up top.
 

Valveman

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With a regular float valve you really need a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the cycling as the flow rate decreases as the float gets closer to the top.

You could also stop the cycling by using a float switch instead of a float valve.
 
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Mike Lynn

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After doing some quick research I think I'd much rather keep the work inside the aerator and use a float switch instead. Do you think that will solve my issues?

Here's some pics of what's in there right now.

Z9U4ZS5.jpg


i7nOnuP.jpg
 

Reach4

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If you turn off valve 1 while the pressure is at max and the pump has just shut off and the cycling stops and the pressure holds, replace check valve A. Don't let the pump continue to run with the pump unable to draw water.

If you turn off just valve 2 and the cycling stops and the water level stays up, I think the float valve is leaking. If the tank level drops while you are not using water and valve 2 is closed, something is leaking water out of the atmospheric tank.

I am not a pro.
 

Mike Lynn

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If you turn off just valve 2 and the cycling stops and the water level stays up, I think the float valve is leaking.

This worked. Looks like the flat valve is the problem. Any recommendations to a good one?
 

Reach4

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You would not want a "modulating" valve, where it goes partially on or off. On the Jobe site, I see they offer a http://www.jobevalves.com/reservoir-valve.html reservoir valve where it seems to have more deadband than most. I don't know how much these things cost. I don't know what thread they have, and that seems important.

Note that Valveman suggested that a float switch controlling the pump, instead of a pressure switch, could simplify things. You could maybe get rid of the pressure tank with such a switch. You would want a "pump up" AKA "normally closed" switch. In that case, an open pipe pumps into the cistern.
Tethered-float-switch.jpg
 
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