Help me finalize water softner system

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by sahildp, May 8, 2014.

  1. sahildp

    sahildp New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    CA
    I need help with sizing the water softner for a family of three.
    I have educated myself from the expert messages posted here, but need help from the pros to put the system together.

    Water Consumption:
    - City water with pressure adjusted down to 60 psi.
    - Main line, water softener piping and line going in to house is all 1†copper.
    - All exterior connections are plumbed independent of water softener.
    - All kitchen & bath fixtures are new and water saving.
    - New dishwasher and front loading washing machine.
    - Estimated water usage: <60 gpd/person.
    - Estimated SFR: <12 gpm


    Water Quality:

    - City water supply mainly from ground water
    - Total Hardness: 18 gpg (max)
    - pH: 7.6
    - TDS: 550 mg/L
    - Turbidity: 0.13 NTU
    - Sodium: 100 ppm
    - Residual Chlorine: 1.2 ppm

    Water Quality Report.jpg


    I am considering 1.5 cft capacity, with Fleck 7000 SXT or 5600 SXT or 5000 (Pro Flo), 1†noryl bypass, top basket, gravel bed, 10x54 resin tank and 18x33 brine tank. I am not
    decided on type of resin yet. My estimate is 3x60x18x7 = 22,680 grains in 7 days. What size and components will you recommend for an efficient and reliable water softener? Please advise.

    I will greatly appreciate any help I can get. Thank you.
  2. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    Most of us prefer to use 65 gallons per person. So 65*3*18=3510. A 1.5 CF will have 30,000 grain at efficiency setting. 30,000-3510=26490/65/18/3=7.5. 10% cross link resin will resist the effects of chlorine better than 8% will. Either will do fine.
  3. sahildp

    sahildp New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    CA
    Thank you for a quick response. We conserve water as much as possible, so my actual estimate was like 50 gpd.
    Which valve would you recommend? The house has 2-1/2 bath. I estimated SFR at 10-12 gpm.
  4. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    Clack make the best DIY valve on the market. It has the feature of setting it for both up & down flow. The history it keeps is ideal for determining great efficiency.
  5. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    A 1.5 cuft softener has a constant SFR of 12 gpm and when programed for 30K has a salt efficiency of 3333 grains/lb of salt. That is 6 lbs/cuft (9 lbs total) per regeneration.

    The last I looked, the American Water Works Association, made up of water companies with meters on houses etc. all across the country for many decades said the average American household uses 60 gals/person/day.

    To prevent any misunderstanding, to my knowledge there is no control valve that can be programed for either up flow (counter-current) or down flow (co-current) regeneration. You must have the respective parts (piston etc.) installed in the valve for either type of regeneration and then program it for that type regeneration.

    What can be selected/programed on Clack and some other valves is pre or post brining, meaning the refill water is added at the beginning of a regeneration with a 2 hour pause for salt to be dissolved before the regeneration starts, or post brining, meaning the refill water is added at the end of the regeneration and is in the salt tank until the next regeneration.
  6. sahildp

    sahildp New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    CA
    Gary,

    Can you recommend any specific valve that is a best match for my needs? Thank you.
  7. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,264
    Location:
    IL
    Clack has a DIY valve? :rolleyes: Fleck 5600SXT or 7000 SXT would be good, and Fleck will allow you to buy parts.

    For average water use vs time, I guess low flow toilets have one effect, and the increased use of dishwashers and Jacuzzis has the opposite effect.

    Regarding average use, water meters count the water used for lawns and backwashing softeners.

    sahildp, if you have a water meter, you can know how much water you use. However it is hard to know how much of that was irrigation if you do that.
  8. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    I would go with the 5600 or 7000 rather than the not so popular 5000/Pro Flow.
  9. sahildp

    sahildp New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    CA
    All my piping is 1" copper. Will the 5600 restrict the flow?
  10. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,176
    Location:
    Maine
    All softeners restrict the flow to some degree.
  11. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    You can change the brine flow on a Clack valve by simply moving the injector from the downflow side (co-current) to the upflow side (counter-current).
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,839
    Location:
    Ontario California
    It is more involved than that. Once the Clack valve is sold as an uplflow or downflow, it needs to stay that way.
  13. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    Understood. But it can be done. I would not recommend to flip flop (like some folks) but rather keep it as was set up from the start. In fact, I don't recommend upflow to begin with. Thanks for clearing that up.
  14. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Yes you do that and move the plug for whatever type regeneration the valve is made for (there is a grey IIRC color spot on each counter current/up flow valve) but without the same type regeneration (up flow or down flow) piston, it won't work.

    Also, I don't know why but Clack strongly suggests not changing from one type of regeneration to the other in the field.
    Last edited: May 9, 2014
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