Help! Installing Shower pan

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by va2adez, Aug 9, 2006.

  1. va2adez

    va2adez Military

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    San Diego, California
    I'm almost done with the framing. Time to install the fiberglass shower pan. I brought a membrane to water proof the work. I have a cronctrete slab with a 7 inch cut out. My question is how do I install this membrane? Can I lie a piece of thin wood on the concrete and cut out the drain hole? To me that would provide support. This stall is 32" X 32", very small. The pan is also flush with the floor on the walk-in side so would the membrane work?
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,023
    Location:
    New England
    You don't typically need a membrane under a premade pan. What you DO want is to set that pan in something to fill in the gaps between where it want to be and the floor so it doesn't flex every time you step in it or move around. You can use what is called deck mud (a mix of sand and portland cement) or other things. Your instructions probably list a couple of possibilities and say it is optional...it shouldn't be - it should be mandatory.

    What you do want on the walls (are you going to tile the walls, or are there panels you bought?) is something that is waterproof and that will direct any moisture into the pan so it can drain. If you are going to tile the walls, check out www.johnbridge.com.

    The drains that typically come with some of these pans are somewhat of a pain. You basically get one chance to set the pan in place and make the drain connection...measure and dry fit things to make sure everything is where it should be.

    Make sure that the shower pans edges are level when you are done...the deck mud will help you do that as you smush it down into the deck mud.
  3. va2adez

    va2adez Military

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    San Diego, California
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,023
    Location:
    New England
    If your floor isn't flat, the pan will flex and destroy itself fairly quickly. It was hard to see from the picture. The instructions should tell you how to prepare the drain line to connect with the pan. If not, you might want to call the manufacturer or see if they have detailed instructions on their website. Yes, deck mud could fill the depression.
  5. va2adez

    va2adez Military

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    San Diego, California
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,023
    Location:
    New England
    Get a long straightedge and check things out....looks to me that there may a high point or two. A real tiled shower base isn't all that hard to make...check out www.johnbridge.com and they can help. I think it looks much better and will last longer than the fiberglass.
  7. va2adez

    va2adez Military

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    San Diego, California
    No high point it all flush

    The whole slap is flush. Very straight. The only consideration I have is that the opening is too big and that is the reason why the last one cracked. It didn't help that my kid's jumped while taken showers.
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,023
    Location:
    New England
    You need to support the entire floor across its full surface, or it will die and early death. You can fill the hole with deck mud (except for the drain!), but it will take a little finesse to get the pan down and make the drain connection. Some drain connections are easier than others, so this may not be a factor. You need to bed the pan while whatever you put under it is still wet, so it will conform to the bottom.
  9. va2adez

    va2adez Military

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    San Diego, California
    Thank you for the help

    I have been having a big headache trying to figure out how to do it with no kind of experience. From what I understand you are saying fill in the hole with deck mud except for the pipe (basically building a wall around the pipe) that will be flush with the concrete slab. Then pour a couple of inches on the slab then seat the pan on top lining up the pipe. Do I have it right?
    http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f400/va2adez/IMGP0963.jpg
    http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f400/va2adez/IMGP0962.jpg
    http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f400/va2adez/IMGP0961.jpg
  10. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,023
    Location:
    New England
    That's what I would do, but again, note, I'm not a pro. None of them came pouncing down on me, either, so I think I got it right...
  11. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,011
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]

    They make drains that use rubber collars for sealing to the pipe, that can be tightend after the stall is dropped over the pipe.

    If you need to support the base, some piles of mud will help that.
    I prefer the piles, it give room to squish out.
    If you try to be perfect, then sometimes the mud is too high and doesn't allow the shower to drop down far enough.
Similar Threads: Help Installing
Forum Title Date
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Installing new tub fixtures help please Dec 30, 2012
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Need help with installing a new shower Feb 15, 2012
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Installing threaded tub spout - need help Jul 15, 2009
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Installing Delta drain, help! Nov 10, 2008
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Installing New 4 foot tub...Rookie Help Sep 25, 2006

Share This Page