Help identify resin and water softners

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by scooby, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    0423121749.jpg 0423121749a.jpg 0423121849.jpg I am having trouble finding out what kind of power head and resin i have in my water softners. I believe the one is a Fleck 2510 with a tank that is 10"x 47" and the other is a Fleck 3000 series with same size tank, this tank has no brine tube hooked up. The water coming from well has 25 grains, 425 ppm hardness, iron 3ppm and ph at 8.9 and 40-60 psi , there is a sediment filter inline before softners. The softners are at least 15 years old , they were in the house when i bought it ,and the water from the softners is ok but feel like the resin should be replaced some time soon. There are 2 adults living in the house and 2 bathrooms. I contated the name on front of covers and asked about resin and they said it was a "special mix" and wanted to come out tear the head off and take a look, he also wanted to be sure my wife was there when he was there so we could make decision together. So if anyone can help identify sofners and the type of resin that might be used in them would be great.


    Scooby7589
  2. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Ontario California
    They are not 2510 valves. They may be 2750 or 2500 valves. Considering the age of these units, you have gotten your moneys worth especially considering how bad your water is. The reason they want your wife there is because they are sending a salesman, not a technician, once you told them they were 15 years old... new equipment time to them.

    I would recommend replacing the systems in the near future. You will be needing a complete valve rebuild, new media, new manifolds. The tanks and valve bodies are probably fine. Rebuilding these valves is relatively simple, I would rebuild/replace the injector assembly, replace the piston, seals, spacers, brine valve on softener, and replace the medias. The iron system "special blend" is usually nothing more than a couple of standard medias mixed inside the tank.
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  3. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,265
    Location:
    Maine
    The bottom one is a Fleck 2500 and the top one is an Autotrol. Probably a 255 series.
  4. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    What would you recommend for resin in softner, and filter tank?
  5. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,265
    Location:
    Maine
    What are your water conditions?
  6. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    I bought a test kit from lowes , ph is 8.9 hardness is 25 grains at 425 ppm , iron is 3ppm. Not sure of the type of iron .
  7. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    When water comes out of spigot clear and stays clear after sitting for a while and no sulfur smell.
  8. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    739
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    The are both Fleck valves. One has a 3200 series timer and I'm not sure the series timer on the other unit but it's old. It sounds as if it is working if you are not getting iron staining. Test the house water and post the results.
  9. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    The house water after softner ph 7.5 , hardness 50 ppm , 0 iron , 240 ppm total alkanlinity, 0 copper , 0 chlorine no bacteria no lead
  10. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    The units are pretty old so i thought a rebuild would be a good idea but wasn't sure about what kind of resin to use?
  11. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,265
    Location:
    Maine
    I'm not sure that rebuilding the valves would be the way to go. With my luck, I'd replace the seals and a month later the motor would die. It might be a better plan to replace both valves. You can keep the tanks. Purolite standard mesh is fine for resin.
  12. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Tom, I am missing something. Am I looking at the picture correctly? They are both Fleck valves, the top one has no brine valve, and both have the old designer cover backplate. They are both probably 2500 valves, considering the meter location on the softener. Not likely a 2750 since that meter would be taller behind the valve. Where are you seeing the autotrol? I mean no disrespect, just curious if I am missing something. It would not be the first time. :)
  13. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,265
    Location:
    Maine
    You are right. For some reason I looked at the top picture and the timer looked like the old Autotrol to me but now that I look closer I believe they are both Fleck 2500's
  14. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Autotrol/Intermatic did use the 3000 timer on their older pilot controllers many years ago. That is a common timer so the mistake is an easy one. It is amazing how long this timer design can run without fail. I have seen these in service for over 30 years. The 3200 timer was a great replacement too.
  15. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    This has been a great help and I am starting to put the pieces together of what i have, but unsure of the resin to use for the iron sulfur removal, should i try to mix 2 resins together or will one type do the job. We have started to notice a sulfur smell from cold water supply on sink faucets but not on the tub or toilets. I betting the well will need to be cholorinated and wanted to do this first and then change resin in softner and filter tank. Thanks for all the feed back .
  16. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    739
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    Onle one tank has resin. It is the one that has the meter an the brine line hooked to the brine tank. The other tank could have BIRM, PYROLOX or FILOX media in it.
  17. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,265
    Location:
    Maine
    Try chlorinating the well and see if the smell goes away. If it does and comes back later then don't chlorinate again because continual chlorinating can cause corrosion of the well case and the pump.
  18. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    The birm , pyrolox and filox are media that would take out the sulfur smell and are backwashing media? I want to makes sure my unit can properly backwash the media also, should i be concerened about the weight and how much i put in tank?
  19. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Birm should not be used for Hydrogen sulfide, so the common medias after that are pyrolox/Filox types of medias. I noticed the sticker on your unit shows a backwash rate of 7 GPM for the iron/hydrogen sulfide system. This is not adequate for pyrolox in many applications. What is the temperature of your water? Colder water requires less volume to expand a bed so a lower GPM may work. There are several other medias manufactured under different brand names that use less water and require less frequent backwashing, but Pyrolox or similar medias are the most common. A 10" tank should be backwashed at no less than 8 gpm, and preferably at 10-13 GPM.
  20. scooby

    scooby New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Ann Arbor Mi
    The water temp is cold but not exactly sure on temp.what range should i be in to expand a bed at lower gpm, Im not sure if this is the exact system i have , as far as gpm rate goes, dont know if they cobbled something together to make it work or what, can i test for gpm of tank? could i upgrade the head for more gpm? and is it possible for the media and tank itself to be contaminated with iron bacteria, when i pulled water from spigot before softners and after sediment filter there was no smell of sulfur, then this morning brushing my teeth i could smell the sulfur it wasn t overwhelming but it was there.
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