Help! Broken Tee in wall for fridge water line...

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Redwood

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It certainly sounds like you have the symptoms of high pressure.

I would do whatever it takes to use the braided supply. They are bullet proof.
I have seen more leaking plastic lines than I care to imagine. Copper also has a tendency to get kinked when you move the fridge in and out to clean the coils. (some people actually do that it makes them last a long time) Once kinked the leak is following soon if not immediately. Usually it is just a matter of drilling a hole down through the floor.
 

BDP

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I've got both lines here at the house still so I figure with the plumber coming tomorrow I'll let him choose. :) Though it does sound like the steel is the safest. I just wish it was as skinny as the copper, would make the decision a heck of a lot easier. The line right now runs out from behind my stove where the access is but then in FRONT of the wall where the counter is (which I yanked out) thus preventing the counter from mounting flush with the wall with the steel line down there -- So maybe if he wants to cut and run it behind the wall all the way to where the fridge is (probably the proper way anyway) that would be cool with me.

My builder took SO many shortcuts at this house.
 

Gary Swart

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It does sound like you have too much pressure, but testing it with a gauge is the only sure way. A gauge is cheap, around $12 at any hardware store, and they are very handy now and then to check what the pressure is. If the pressure is excessive, like over 60 PSI, then you need to install a pressure reducing valve in the main water supply line, usually very close to where the line enters the house. This however, will create another problems that you will have to deal with. The PRV has a check valve built into it that creates a closed system. What happens is when water heats it expands. In an open system (no PRV) this expansion is absorbed by the city water supply. However, in a closed system, this check valve prevents this from occurring and the pressure in the water heater rises dramatically. When it reaches 150 psi, the temperature/pressure valve on the water heater does its job and opens to relieve the excess pressure. The cure for this problem is a thermal expansion tank sized to fit your home. This is placed inline between the PRV and water heater. They are air charged to match the PSI setting of the PRV. Hope you can keep all these abbreviations straight:p
 

rwcarpenter

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What I did in the similar situation was take the saddle clamp off and clean around the spot with a little sand paper, mix up some of that epoxy putty, and then put in on the hole. I then turned the clamp part of the saddle backward (where hole in clamp was opposite hole in pipe) to give the epoxy some support and tightened it a little and let the epoxy set for about 30 minutes and then tightened it a little more. Turned my water on and looked for leaks.

Later when I got the right parts I cut out the repair and soldered on a real valve. You will be amazed at the difference in water flow if you have a water dispenser in the fridge. Also the ice is always solid now...and before sometimes the ice was hollow...those saddle clamps are crap.

repair-clamp-sewerratz-1.jpg
 
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hj

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valve

A quick fix would be to get another saddle valve and just clamp it over the hole, you do not have to pierce another hole, nor would you want to. Then hook your line back and turn on the valve, if it was not already on.
 

NHmaster

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Wait a second, I think I have the solution.
 

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BDP

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I can't believe I didn't think to just use rubber patch or another saddle valve to at least get the water turned back on. Duh. Thanks all.

I think I will have a real valve installed via solder after speaking with a local plumber. Seems the more peace of mind approach.

Also tested my line pressure today, came in around 72. I'm told anything above 80 is time for PRV but under that is fine, is that true? Plumber gave me a quote on price of PRV installed, parts and labor, and I am not sure if I can quote prices here but I'd rather not spend the money unless I had to. He did say the default for a PRV is around 50 and it would definitely help with my line noise, but 72 isn't going to hurt anything.

Was he right?
 

FloridaOrange

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It might be 72 now...another time of day it might be 90. You can get a gauge with a high level indicator and leave it on for a day or so. In my area at least as water demand fluxuates so does the pressure.
 
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