head scratcher

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by ladder, Nov 1, 2009.

  1. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    We moved into a house about 5 years ago and the water pressure was 110 lbs. So I put a reducing valve on and set it at 55 lbs. ( on city water ) Everything has been fine except for the last week we have had low water pressure. When you turn on the water anywhere you have good pressure to start but after a minute it goes down to around 25 to 30 lbs. I put a gauge on the faucet and it read 55 lbs. I haven't done any digging to crimp a pipe....... Anybody know what could be the problem or where to start?
  2. Doherty Plumbing

    Doherty Plumbing Journeyman & Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    810
    Location:
    Penticton, BC
    Both hot and cold????

    What kind of HWT tank do you have and what year is it? If it's an older John wood there is a good chance the dip tube has disintegrated and is clogging up your faucets. This is a nasty problem!

    If that's not it then I would look at the PRV again. Maybe it's fouled up!
  3. shacko

    shacko Master Plumber-Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    561
    Location:
    Rosedale, Md
    Water Pressure

    What you have to do is check the pressure before the PRV and see if there is a change, there's a possibility that the inconning pressure has changed due to work on the municipal system. If you still have high pressure before the PRV you problem is probably in the valve, maybe dirt. :confused:
  4. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    You guys are quick!..... It's happening on both hot and cold.... I've got one of those Whirlpool flamelock's that's 5 yrs. old.:( It's always blowing up inside of it so I wonder if the inner glass shell is busted and could be the problem.?......

    Not sure how to go about checking the pressure before the prv but will call the city water people tomorrow..... I guess if they have no problem then I will be checking the prv. Thanks!
  5. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    It's the PRV try rapping the bottom of it with a hammer while the water is running
  6. D'Brie

    D'Brie Apprentice Plumber

    Messages:
    44
    Location:
    NW Washington State
    ...I've got one of those Whirlpool flamelock's that's 5 yrs. old.:( It's always blowing up inside of it so I wonder if the inner glass shell is busted and could be the problem.?......

    Not to spend your money here but those water heaters are crap. I'd put replacing it on my "to do" list. It's most likely coming to end of it's life (from experience).
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,315
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    heater

    There is no "inner glass shell". IF the glass lining goes bad the heater will be leaking. You have a bad PRV. It does not allow an overpressure to occur, but it also does not open fully during flow so the pressure drops.
  8. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Can anybody tell me a good prv to get..... Is that the normal life span, 5 years? Could this be a diy job? The prv is in a hole about 1' square and about a foot deep.... Paid a plumber $200 5 years ago to replace the other one.
  9. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH

    What does this mean?
  10. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    When the water heater kicks on (gas), after a couple of minutes it will bubble inside and then make a series of " explosions" inside. I've found by opening a hot water faucet it will I guess relieve the pressure and it quits for a while. I really don't know what is exactly going on.......... Hope this makes sense.
  11. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,315
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    noise

    Usually, opening a faucet and dropping the pressure CAUSES the noise. Whether you can DIY the replacement depends on many factors, starting with the make and model you have, how it is installed, and which one you purchased to replace it. As a general rule, if the old one is NOT installed with double unions, and the new one does not have them also, AND if it is not exactly the same length, it will be a very difficult replacement.
  12. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Your right, at least for this summer and fall. The way I fill the washing machine now is turn on the cold water first to fill about half way and then the hot water the rest of the way. That way the washer is usually about full when the water heater kicks on and I won't hear the explosions....... BUT, last winter the water heater would do it's thing with the "explosions" just heating up and the only way I could stop it is by turning on a hot water faucet for a few seconds..... No more Cesspool (whirlpool) water heaters!
  13. ladder

    ladder New Member

    Messages:
    7
    I turned on the washing machine today and watched the water flow come out good in the beginning and then slow to probably half of what it was in the beginning. While the washing machine was filling, I put a pressure gauge on the outside faucet ( which is right outside the wall of the washing machine) and it read 55 lbs... Does anybody know how the outside faucet can read 55 lbs. but your getting low water pressure from the washer?....... The PRV has been set at 55 lbs. for 5 years now and everything has been fine except for the last week or so. Now when you flush the toilet you can barely wash your hands.
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