HDPE supply pipe

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Flapper

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We have what I think is HDPE supply pipe supplying our water outside; it is black and kind-of flexible but quite rigid... The fittings are gray barb fittings that are inserted in the pipe and have one or two hose clamps on it. The connections tend to leak a little and there are (and have been) lots of little leaks. The hose clamps need to be very tight to keep them sealed. It is frustrating how there is so little information about these and that they often leak...
I would like to know anything you know about this type of supply pipe...
Are barb fittings and hose clamps the correct way to connect this type of pipe? Where can I find the right fittings? It's hard to find them in stores because "3/4 barb" applies to many different fittings.

Written from an iPod so pardon any idiocities... I hate mobile devices
 

Craigpump

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Was the pipe warmed up before installing the insert fittings?

Also, throw the plastic or nylon fittings away and use brass male x insert or insert x insert fittings.

Double clamping is a good idea. The way those clamps are used is the proper way to double clamp.
 

Flapper

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Thanks for the tip; i'll do that.

As for brass fittings; I suppose they are better but they are much too expensive in THD. How much better are brass fittings for this? I don't think it is worth it.
 

Craigpump

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We NEVER use pvc or nylon fittings.

Brass fittings are sharper to hold the pipe better, are better machined to prevent leakage, and won't break.
 

CountryBumkin

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I have that hose on my sprinkler system. It's impossible to insert the hose on the fitting fully without heating the hose. Use an automotive "heat gun" not a flame. I don't have/need any clamps on my fittings - although my stuff is on irrigation sprinklers side - not the always pressurized side.
 

Flapper

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We NEVER use pvc or nylon fittings.

Brass fittings are sharper to hold the pipe better, are better machined to prevent leakage, and won't break.
I'll consider getting brass fittings if I come across a leaking connection that won't stop leaking.
 

Flapper

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Thanks everyone for the help; I did a lot of repair today. There's this one connection that won't stop leaking and I've tightened it many times. Now I think it may be the threads instead, because I fixed a leak at a threaded connection to a valve by re-attaching it and it was still leaking. I removed the valve and retaped the threads with lots of tape, and put a cap on instead (this valve was for an unused washing machine on the porch (greywater system)).

I have more leaks to fix next time.

I've had problems with these hose clamps I got from THD; they are apparently low quality compared to the old hose clamps and they tend to strip. The old clamps can be tightened really tight but these new ones cannot be tightened as much or they'll strip. I ruined three of them already. It sucks because they are expensive.
Does anyone know if other stores sell better hose clamps or do I need to go to a supply store or online for better hose clamps?
 
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Flapper

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Thanks helpful people for the help; I've been fixing leaks and stuff for the past few days.

I've realized that many of the threaded connections we made have leaked, so I got some pipe dope to try as an alternative (never used paste dope before). So far it seems to be reliable; all connections have not leaked, but what I don't like is that it is very messy, so I don't think I'd get any more pipe dope.

I learned that this is the best way to connect fittings to HDPE pipe, if anyone else reading this wants to know how to do it:
  1. Cut pipe square or as square as you can.
  2. Using a heat gun with a safe distance and setting, aim it right into the end to heat it evenly until it is warm and soft (careful not to melt it).
  3. Insert the fitting while wiggling it around a little to get it in all the way to the end stop of the fitting. (You may see the nice soft bulges of the barbs in the pipe, or maybe not if the fitting doesn't have large barbs.)
  4. While still warm, put two hose clamps on both ends of the barbed area of the fitting, with gear-heads opposing each-other.
  5. Tighten the hose clamps until tight (don't over-tighten).
  6. Test for leaks and if it leaks, continue tightening the hose clamps until it stops (If it is a pipe thread adapter fitting, make sure it's actually the fitting-to-pipe connection and not the pipe thread connection.)
Also, I found the right keyword to find the most results if you are looking for fittings: Try "3/4 barb insert". I found that Home Depot sells two 3/4 barb insert fittings in-stores (coupling and pipe thread adapter) which can be useful if you need to repair your pipe ASAP.
 

Craigpump

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The proper name in the well pump business is "insert fitting" either male x insert, female x insert, insert x insert, insert x male 90....

Barb fittings are auto supply parts to repair vacuum lines.

Propane torches are quicker & easier. No one I know in the pump/well trade uses a heat gun.

Nylon insert fittings are somewhat flexible, can split, are easily cross threaded, we never use them. PVC is rigid and prone to breaking, we use them to couple poly conduit to well caps. Brass or stainless are the best materials to use, strong, precise, nice sharp edges to really grab the pipe....but shouldnt be used with dissimilar metals.
 

Flapper

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The pipe dope has been reliable until this time... I redid a leaking joint and used pipe dope to connect the adapter to the valve (the nipple was clean and the valve had some left-over dope I wiped out as much as I could). Tested and it was crying. :( :p That was the joint where I used a little less dope because I thought I was using way too much before. :rolleyes: So I unscrewed it, wiped off as much as I could, and re-did it with a lot of pipe dope, and tested it, and it looked good, but then I found it was still a little sad. :( :p So I undid it again, wiped off as much pipe dope as possible, and used PTFE tape with many wraps, and that solved it.
Did I say that the pipe dope is very messy? Bloody hell that stuff gets everywhere! Once you put it on the threads, you can't get it all out, and since it is sticky, it may collect dirt (which you can't remove) which may damage the seal. Tape is very clean and it can be removed without any evidence of its existence on the threads.
I don't like it and I think I'll return it and try a better tape.

Side question; can tape be used in wet situations? What about dope?
 

Reach4

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Side question; can tape be used in wet situations? What about dope?
Yes for the tape. I don't know for the dope...

Many people use tape and dope both.

I would avoid fittings with mold marks. Those don't look like the worst that I have seen.

img_2.jpg
 

Terry

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We NEVER use pvc or nylon fittings.

Brass fittings are sharper to hold the pipe better, are better machined to prevent leakage, and won't break.

I have never used a plastic fitting either.
Brass only. My time is worth more than a few bucks.
And yes on the double hose clamps.
 

Flapper

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To continue my journey of fixing leaks, I went to this other junction... it was modified only a few years ago yet the ground was really solid because that area was walked-over many times... so I dug in (or picked in) and a few inches down I found moist, nearly-black, soil, full off roots. That was leaking for a long time and the dirt was black and full off roots!
 
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