Hardibacker and tile install questions - corners

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by kjm, Feb 19, 2010.

  1. kjm

    kjm New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Seattle
    1 . On my insider corners I used fiberglass tape with thinset - where both corners are hardibacker.
    I have an outsider corner where the hardi backer meets the drywall - I was wondering if I could use the metal corner strips overlaping the hardi and drywall - or if I should use tape ?
    2. When tiling insider corners - what is the opinion about overlaping tile or just having the corners meet - If you just have the corners meet then there is a large gap behind them ?
    3. I am installing 20" long tiles but do not have a saw to rip them - any recommendations for best rental rates in seattle area ?
    Thank you for your advice.
    KJM
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,313
    Location:
    New England
    If you tile the long wall first, then bring the end walls close to the long wall, the caulk seam will not show as much as if you do it the other way. That way, you can tuck the long wall's pieces in, and not have a large void if you just bring them close at the corner. It also means any cuts you might need to make will have half of them hidden by the end walls edges. If you want to avoid caulk in the corners entirely, you can use an engineered expansion joint, and depending on the grout color you choose, you may be able to match it or at least come close. www.schluter.com makes a range of them. You should caulk all changes of plane and dissimilar materials joints of you don't use an engineered joint. check out www.johnbridge.com for more help on tiling.

    As to cutting the tile, you have several options - if all of the cuts are just straight, a quality snap cutter works well. Note, dull cutting points and cheap designs will give less than optimal results. Cutting that large of a tile requires a big cutter or wetsaw. Also, large tile often are a little warped, so this makes it easier to have them crack as you cut through since they may not sit flat on the surface (cupped or warped), and when you get to one end, it isn't strong enough to support itself when you make the cut at the end. Be prepared with some spare tile. Lippage on large tile can be tough...you may want to consider one of the engineered leveling systems. two that come to mind are Tuscan Leveling System and LASH system.
  3. kjm

    kjm New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Seattle
    Thanks so much for your advice .
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