H7ICAT Halo recessed lights cutting out (overlamp safety feature)

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by Erico, Feb 5, 2011.

  1. Erico

    Erico New Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    NY
    I recently installed several H7ICATs in my new kitchen remodel. The insulator was here yesterday and blew in celulose in the crawl space above. Today I installed some temporary 75 watt old fashined bulb incandecants - now the lights are cutting out.

    The specs say 75 watts max. I'm wondering why I'm getting overlamped.

    We are probably eventually going to go with either CFLs or LEDs (when the price comes down) or 65 watt halogens - I put the 75s in so I would have more light to work by - but I'm wondering why the fixtures aren't handling the specified max.

    Do I have a problem or a moot point when I settle on either lower watt halogens od cfls or LEDs?


    Model # H7ICAT

    Airtight : Yes
    Aperture width (in.) : 6
    Assembled Depth (in.) : 7.5 in
    Assembled Height (in.) : 7.5 in
    Assembled Width (in.) : 10.5 in
    CSA Listed : Yes
    Can Type : 6 in. New Construction
    Collection Name : N/A
    Depth Adjustable Socket : Yes
    ETL Listed : No
    ETL Safety Listed : No
    Energy Star Compliant : No
    Energy Star qualified : No
    Housing depth (in.) : 10.5
    I/C Compatible : Yes
    IC Rated : Yes
    Insulation contact : Insulation contact
    Interior Lighting Product Type : Recessed Housing
    Item Weight : 3 lb
    Light Source : Incandescent
    Manufacturer Warranty : standard
    Maximum Bulb Wattage : 75 W
    New Construction or Remodel : New Construction
    Number of Housings Included : 1
    Product Weight (lb.) : 3 lb
    Product type : Hanger
    Recommended bulb type : PAR 30
    Reflector finish family : Aluminum
    Safety Listing : Yes
    Size : 6
    Size : 6 in.
  2. Speedy Petey

    Speedy Petey Licensed Electrical Contractor

    Messages:
    991
    Location:
    NY State, USA
    It is because you are using A-lamps, not reflector lamps. A-lamps give out a tremendous amount of heat all around. Reflector lamps concentrate it downward.
    Also, the trim has a lot to do with it. The actual lamp size and selection is based on the trim, not the can.

    Also, if you do not even have the trims in yet this will affect the thermal sensor.
  3. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,531
    Location:
    North Carolina
    The type trim will play a role in the fixture. Some trims reduce the wattage to as low as 30 watts

    Go Petey Go
    You posted while I was typing
  4. Erico

    Erico New Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    NY
    Ahhhhh ha! Thanks.

    So much for the "temp" lights.

    Five bucks shot in the a$$. Not the first. Won't be the last.
  5. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    The lights are cutting out so the house does not catch on fire. The IC means rated for insulation contact, and with that rating , they have a thermal cut-out. If you change to a reflector bulb, you will do better.
  6. Speedy Petey

    Speedy Petey Licensed Electrical Contractor

    Messages:
    991
    Location:
    NY State, USA
    Use 23-26 watt CFLs for temp light. Over 100 watts equivalent.
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