Grohe 34436 - replace stop valve or the whole thing?

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by bang0r, Oct 15, 2009.

  1. bang0r

    bang0r New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Reference: "Leaking Grohe model 34-446" (URL http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451&highlight=grohe)

    My 34-436 developed a temperature stuck-at symptom early this year. Per Grohe's tech support's recommendation, I replaced the temperature cartridge in June, as the part is under warranty. At that time, I also replaced the two stop-valve assembly due to an intermittent drips, thinking that will save me some work since the escutcheon and sleeve are already out. When I installed the right stop valve, the metal screen was not compressed enough, consequently some bits of the screen corner came loose as the valve get threaded in and eventually damaging the inner O-ring on the outside of the valve assembly. With the O-ring repair kit Grohe's tech support sent me, I replaced the broken O-ring and the two inner O-rings on both plungers, but the 34436 still exhibits a slow leakage (approx a drop very 7 to 10 seconds). There is no leak if the service stops are turned off. My dilemma is whether to buy another pair of valves (hoping that will fix the leaks) or replace the whole 34436 ?

    If the whole 34436 is to be replaced, can that be done from the other side of the wall, since the shower surround is the cultured marble type, not tiles.

    Any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  2. Rustynail

    Rustynail New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    West Simsbury, CT
    Grohe 34-436

    BangOr - I don't see why it couldn't be replaced from the back side. Are you sure you want the same valve? Seems like a lot of trouble.

    I too, have the 34-436 and it's leaking. I replaced the stops 10 or so years ago and the thermostatic valve is tempormental. It's damage my ceiling below two times, I would not buy the same valve.

    In an earlier post, you mentioned having trouble getting the thermostic valve out of the body and then you posted you got it out. How did you get it out? I can't get mine to jar loose either. Grohe suggested spraying vinegar and water solution inside the body. How did you do it?

    Thanks,

    Fred
  3. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,141
    Location:
    South*East
    You can replace it from the back side. But as others have said I don't think I would use Grohe. In my opinion there over priced and not serviceable. Think about Delta.

    John
  4. bang0r

    bang0r New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    San Francisco
    John, I bought a set of deep sockets from Walmart; and was advaced to use a hammer to tap (slight whack) to the socket wrench handle. Before the attempt, I too was concern whether too much torque excerted can damage the pipe joints to leaks. I was told that the valve may have metal straps securing it to the joists, but I don't know if that is just plumbers' best practices or building code requirements. Actually the ceiling below also sustained water damage; once, so far.
  5. bang0r

    bang0r New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Thanks for all the replies. I will look into the Delta valves, and see if there is one model with an escutcheon that cover the existing cut-out. I do like the 34436 when it doesn't drip (water torture as previous post called it :) and certainly have positive experience with Grohe's technical support.
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