glue on plaster walls four feet up ...

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by tameria11, Sep 27, 2005.

  1. tameria11

    tameria11 New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Ontario
    Hi
    we are redoing our kitchen (plumbing to be addressed on the other forum). Our kitchen had a 4 foot wainscott border of cheap t/g pine. My wife and I both disliked the look. When I removed it (easy) we found adhesive from a previouse tile job. Very rough swirls all over the place. Is there a way we can smooth this surface, without sanding down to the plaster. I tried that and it does not look good.I have thought of putting up drywall 4X 8 foot sheets fit great and than place some brushed nickle trim on the upper edge.We do not want to drywall the whole kitchen. The problem is my wife has not decided on a finish for the walls. Could I install tiles to the existing rough walls or am I kidding myself. L O L :) Every time I take something down in this home it's never what I expect, allways more money and time....
    Thanks for your time
    Dave
  2. thezster

    thezster New Member

    Messages:
    251
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    I guess first, she better decide what she wants.... Depending on the "roughness" of the current finish - you may be able to "skim coat" the wall with drywall mud - providing a pretty smooth finish - not difficult, but takes some practice. Covering with new drywall with the nickel trim sounds kind of nice - actually - though the "roughness" of the current finish may dictate a bit more sanding....

    Again, depending on the current finish - you might be able to tile over the present wall also.....

    Once she decides..........
  3. tameria11

    tameria11 New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Ontario
    Could I put a coat of thin set over the roughness ( about a 1/4 inch roughness) and apply tiles, would the thinset adhere to the already appllied adhesive from long ago or would I have to sand everything but the kitchen sink ( it's about the only level, smooth item in the kitchen)
    Dave
  4. thezster

    thezster New Member

    Messages:
    251
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Wow... without knowing what the adhesive is - it's hard for me to give a recommendation.... I would guess - it'll be fine as it's obviously stuck well and hard as a rock.... but - if I were you, I'd check out the johnbridges.com forum for a pro's opinion.
  5. tameria11

    tameria11 New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Ontario
    I went to the site you reccomended and it said it was for sale. Did I miss something
    Dave
  6. chassis

    chassis Engineer

    Messages:
    339
    Location:
    SE Pennsylvania
    Dave,

    How much wall had the wainscot on it? My thought is to take out the old plaster from floor to ceiling, and put in new drywall/sheetrock. Your options would then be wide open as far as wall covering - tile, wallpaper, paint or more wainscot. ;)

    You will be fighting the bumpiness if you try to tile over the old adhesive. Sanding it off would be more work than putting in new sheetrock, and would not get you as good of a surface.
  7. tameria11

    tameria11 New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Ontario
    the wainscot was 4 feet high. I just tore out all the plaster in the main bath 5 month reno finally finished.( I work 2 jobs) I was not looking forward to another major reno upstairs. I am starting on the downstairs bath next. Maybe put up 4X8 foot sections of rock to cover the old adhesive. so I guess tiles are out of the question?
    Dave
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,325
    Location:
    New England
    www.johnbridge.com

    Definately not for sale! If you put a straightedge across the ridges, does it lay flat? If so, then tile wouldn't be a major problem. Note that, though, you might have to use a medium set (allows thicker layer) than thinset. It is usually called granite and marble thinset. Even if the straighedge doesn't lay flat, you could still tile it, but it takes more skill. You could screed it flat first. Course, you could tear out that part and put up drywall, then tile or paint.
  9. tameria11

    tameria11 New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Ontario
    Hi Jim
    Just to let you know. When I copied the link to your site that was given to me in this thread and pasted it in google it came up as for sale. Glad it was not you, very good site and advice
    thanks
    dave
  10. thezster

    thezster New Member

    Messages:
    251
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Sorry bout the mistype.... pentium fingers/386brain....
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