Garage washing machine : changing from 1" drain to 2" drain pipe

[K9mlxj]

In my garage it has the old 1 1/2" drain pipe for the washing machine. I put in a lint trap a while back and once there was a small amount of lint water would spill out from the 1 1/2" stand pipe.

I don't think washing machines have lint trap nowadays?

I am thinking about changing the laundry drain pipe size to 2".

I think I'd need to make a cut along the concrete floor to replace the underground drain pipe to 2".

Looking at the existing laundry drain piping it seems to branch out from the main sewage line where it's close to (about 16") the cleanout in the garage.

Would I need to replace the cleanout as well if I were to replace the underground branch from the main line to 2"? Or the branch is far enough (16") so there's enough spacing away from the CI cleanout when putting the ABS branch for the new 2" drain?

I can keep the existing 1" size vent pipe, or I'd need to change out the vent pipe size to 1 1/2" all the way up to the roof?

 

[CountryBumkin]

What problem are you trying to solve. I doubt increasing the pipe by 1/2 inch is worth all that work.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Modern WM tend to pump water faster than the older ones (more of an issue with front-loaders, though). Plus, the galvanized piping tends to start to rust and get rough inside, slowing the flow and allowing lint to build up on the insides of the pipe.

I don't know about needing to increase the size of the vent line...but, in most places, you'd need to already have it flare out at the top area before and through the roof if you're in an area where it gets cold enough...otherwise, water vapor can create hoar frost and close off the pipe under some conditions.

YOu need to go back far enough to find at least a 2" line. Can't tell for sure, but the connection coming out of the floor may already be at least 2", so you might just be able to make your connection there.

FWIW, a 2" line has 1.77x more capacity than a 1.5" line, so it is worth it to bring it up to current codes. 1/0.75^2=1.7777 r^2 factor makes a big difference in the area of the opening!

 

[Terry]

You should be able to go into the cast hub in the floor with 2"
Remove the pipe and lead, and using a Fernco sleeve, a tapered plastic 2" pipe soaped up, tap it down into the sleeve.
What you have now is pretty restricted. Here's hoping the cast is somewhat open.

 

[K9mlxj]

You should be able to go into the cast hub in the floor with 2"

This is good news! So no need to cut open the concrete to replace the piping under.

...
...Remove the pipe and lead

I'd need to heat up and then remove the lead? Or cut off the galvanized pipe as close to the hub as possible, and drill out the remaining galvanized pipe/lead...?

... using a Fernco sleeve... .

Would something like this work? I'd be using ABS.

Here's hoping the cast is somewhat open

I'm hoping this line under is not clogged up. There was never a lint trap for a long time until I tried putting one in but then water spilled up so I had to remove the lint trap afterward in order to do laundry.

 

[CountryBumkin]

I've never heard of a "lint trap" in waste-water drain line (only for dryer vents). Why would you need this? - the drain pipes can certainty handle some lint in the washer waste water. Much larger things are going though the waste piping.

How does this lint trap device work? Does it need to be cleaned out periodically?

 

[K9mlxj]

"lint trap" in waste-water drain line ... the drain pipes can certainty handle some lint in the washer waste water ...

Just the regular lint trap (mesh wire) attached to the end of the drain pipe from the washing machine, so it's in the standpipe. That didn't work out with the 1 1/2" standpipe so it was removed... . It's not necessary to have lint trap for washing machine drain I suppose then (except for septic tank?).

 

[Terry]

The hub you have now is above the floor level. I would work from that point.

The previous 1.5" pipe was pulled from the hub, and the lead pried out. I do not use heat.

The hub is now ready for a Fernco hub insert and 2" ABS pipe.

 

[K9mlxj]

That's really really helpful pics Terry!

I think I can go from here now.

 

[Jadnashua]

If you're unable to pull the old pipe out, make swiss cheese out of the lead with a drill bit, then it will allow some movement, and you can get things apart. Prying out what's left at that point should be easy.

 

[K9mlxj]

If you're unable to pull the old pipe out, make swiss cheese out of the lead with a drill bit, then it will allow some movement, ...

Thanks. That's the part I think I'd need to play with a bit to get the galvanized pipe out.

 

[K9mlxj]

I have a question. It seems the bottom end of the 1 1/2" pipe is a threaded end.

Someone can explain--since folks are saying it's a leaded joint to the CI hub?

 

[Jadnashua]

IF there's lead around the outside (you should be able to tell if you scratch it or poke it with something sharp), then they just left the threaded end on and leaded around it. It's hard to tell for sure, but the diameter of where that pipe fits in, at least to me, implies a hub, not a threaded fitting. If it were just threaded in, it would be a smaller diameter pipe down there.

 

[K9mlxj]

I do think it's leaded also, just wondering the reason the way this was done with a threaded end (perhaps, just to save the effort to cut off the thread)... .

 

[hj]

It was threaded into a 1 1/2" coupling, so it would fit into the 2" hub better.