Galvanized Pressure Tank Question

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by muddyriver, Oct 12, 2011.

  1. muddyriver

    muddyriver New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Cleveland,IL
    I have around an 80 gallon galvanized pressure tank (about 65 in tall).The water enters at the top of the tank.It is beggining to leak in alot of different places and i need a new one.I cant find anybody who sells them.

    Somebody else recommended putting a blatter tank in to replace it.They also said i would have to pull the pump and put the check valve in the well.This well is 160 feet deep.Im realy looking for an economical way to fix this problem.Any suggetions would be great.Thanks
  2. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

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  3. muddyriver

    muddyriver New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Cleveland,IL
    It has a check valve now but its right above the pressure tank not down in the well.
  4. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,922
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    A snifter/bleeder system requires a checkvalve at the tank but is does NOT require that the check valve in the pump be removed. Bleeding the line all the way back to the water table can inject too much air on every pump cycle. Normally the bleeder is near the top of the well to only bleed part of the line.
  5. muddyriver

    muddyriver New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Cleveland,IL
    So your saying theres another check valve down in the well above the pump?So i could switch it over to a bladder tank without pulling the pump?
  6. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I'm saying that I doubt the checkvalve was removed from the pump. You still would have to remove the bleeder that most likely is on the down pipe which would still require you open the well and lift the pump at least enough to get to it. How much effort would depend on whether the pump is hung on iron pipe.

    What I suggested is to keep the existing bleeder/snifter and replace the galvanized tank with a WellMate glass composite hydro-pneumatic tank.

    If you are prepared to lift the pump to remove the bleeder, you could go with a much smaller bladder tank and install a Cycle Stop Valve.
  7. muddyriver

    muddyriver New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Cleveland,IL
    Do you think the hp 18 would be a good mach or would you suggest a different one?
  8. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    You haven't described the pump so it's just conjecture whether the existing 80 gallon tank is adequate or overkill. WellMate HP-18 has almost 18 gallons of drawdown at 30/50 PSI.
  9. muddyriver

    muddyriver New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Cleveland,IL
    I have no way to describe the pump.It was just replaced 2 years ago with a commercial pump that could handle a 160 foot rise,thats all i know.
  10. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Excuse me, but this is confusion max. Water entering the TOP of a pressure tank?? Unheard of.

    Check valve at that point without a Schrader valve? Without the Schrader or a micronizer, bleeder in the well or not, no air is entering the tank. How about a photo of this conundrum?
  11. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,922
    Location:
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    Water can enter the tank from the top if you choose to plumb it that way. Gravity takes over from there and if the checkvalve were to leak, it would leak air instead of water.

    I was going on the assumtion that there is a snifter on or before the checkvalve. Of course it is all conjecture. Often the air volume control quits working and some folks have been known to remove the bleeder/snifter and just manually air up the tank periodically. There's no limit to frugality.
  12. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

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    Location:
    northfork, california
    Never saw a plain tank with a top port except where they hung it on a little hook to paint it.
  13. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

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    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
  14. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    Land of Cheese
    I replaced my galvanized tank with a new one from the local Farm & Fleet store. I chose to do this so that I would not have to pull the pump up to remove the bleeders.
  15. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Must be a good memory as that tank is bottom plumbed as the MFG. insists. That is not a 'port' in the top, thats a manufacturers device for fabrication. You could put pressure gauges in any on of those 2 if you so wish. Not a water inlet. Look at the whole picture, its of course plumbed at the bottom. Probably break your snifter if you plumbed in the top too.

    Got a picture of plain tank with a top entry?
  16. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I'm sure muddyriver does but he might plead the 5th, afraid to post it in case it gets used as evidence. If he does throw caution to the wind and posts a pic, maybe we can clear up whether or not there is a snifter.

    What is the maximum penalty imposed by US law for piping the inlet into the top bung?
  17. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

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    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    I can assure you that std. galvanized tanks have a port in the top. It takes an allen wrench to get it out, but they have ports (at least in the small to mid-size).

    Most tanks have 4 ports-one low, one middle-low, one middle, and one top. 82 Gallon galv. tanks are most popular, followed by 42 gallon, followed by 120 gallon. You can still special order whatever you like, as long as you have the money they will make it.
  18. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

    Messages:
    523
    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    I have plumbed water out of the top outlet, but that was for a sand-trap. the water still entered in the bottom.
  19. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Fine, but thats not a pressure tank, other wise you would get all the air first.

    They use an allen fitting - BIG and TIGHT because that was their holding port for welding and painting. They dont tell you or intend you to use it for anything. Your high side port would probably do just as well in a sand trap situation.

    Cheaper for a sand trap is a water heater, electric, without the heat used. I see piles of them on the road and I'll bet 80% were just leaks at the T&P or the nipples.

    The penalty for top-bunging is 20 years to life.
  20. Texas Wellman

    Texas Wellman In the Trades

    Messages:
    523
    Location:
    SE Texas-Coastal
    You're right about the top fitting being mostly for mfg. purposes. It's where it hangs when they dip it, but it can be used.

    There is no high-port-only middle. Some of the older tanks as pictured have a true top-port-complete with bull plug. Don't see too many of them anymore.
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