Fuse Box Question

[RonP]

Hello. I joined TL Forums to ask plumbing questions, and remembered that there was an electrical section, too. So, I have a question about my breaker box.

I live in a mobile home, and I have mapped out my breaker box. For whatever reason, nearly one third of the entire home is going through one single 15 amp breaker. By comparison, the 15 amp breaker directly below it is controlling nothing more than one single bathroom light and fan!
It seems ridiculous to me.

In the summertime, I have to choose between running my portable AC, and using either an electric smoker or a countertop oven outside in my driveway without blowing the 15 amp breaker. (Using the portable oven out in the driveway to keep from heating up the house even more.)

What I would like to know is if it would be a big deal to change out the 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp one. I am not an electrician, but I am in charge of maintenance where I work. I have changed out many lamp ballasts, switches, and outlets in my time. Sometimes without even cutting the power because of downtime issues. Maybe that's why I have the common sense to ask experts about this before just assuming doing this would be okay. Anyway, my point is that I am not afraid of doing some DIY.

Thank you for any advice.

 

[Breplum]

Breakers are sized specifically to match load compatibility and wiring size.
A 15A breaker will normally have #14 romex and serve lighting only, and 20A will have #12 (thicker wire).
NEVER upsize your breaker if you cannot see all the wire in question.
Mircowave or other kitchen outlets should be 20A circuits.
I am not an electrician.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Afjes]

Meanwhile does my original post's reasoning logically support the idea that it's better to put 2 wires in one pressure plate terminal due to increased and more even holding torque?

DON'T DO THIS.
I am a retired electrician. I am not up to codes though but this is not a matter of codes.
Breplum is correct in regards to wire gauge to breaker ratings.
15amp must be at least 14 gauge
20amp must be at least 12 gauge.
DO NOT upsize a breaker in the panel unless you know for sure what the entire length of the cable is from start to finish.
Example: You see a 12 gauge wire connected to a 15 amp breaker in the panel. Do not change it to a 20amp breaker unless you can physically see that all of the cabling right to the very end of the circuit is all 12 gauge wiring.

Technically a bathroom should only be on one 20 amp circuit and that circuit may not extend past that bathroom except under certain conditions by code. From the panel to the bathroom, at least one 20amp circuit. If that circuit will not service the lighting in that bathroom then that circuit may extend to the next bathroom but only a bathroom. If that circuit services the bathroom and the lighting that circuit must stop at that bathroom and may not extend to any other area of the home, (trailer or stick built).

What you have to keep in mind is that years ago (this goes for older stick built homes also) that there was not much in the way of electronics, kitchen appliances like heavy duty coffee machines, microwaves etc so there was not much need for running many circuits. Home built back in the 40 and 50s may only have had one receptacle in a room because back then you would probably only have a radio/tv plugged in and a floor lamp, not all of this other stuff like window ACs, computer, home entertainment systems etc all in one room so there was far less need for more circuits. I have worked on older homes where one circuit would almost cover the entire home.

 

[Fitter30]

14 gauge wire is the thickness of a dime
12 gauge wire is the thickness of a nickel
Romex size is stamped on complete plastic covering not the wires themselves.

 

[RonP]

My idea is clearly a bad one. This is EXACTLY why I ask for advice.

Unfortunately, this is just too minor of a "luxury" for me to pay for professional upgrades.

I will leave it alone, and either learn to live with it, or run an occasional extension cord to one of the (very) few outlets NOT on this single 15 amp breaker.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Reach4]

This is a wild idea, that you are not likely to implement: replace that single pole 15 amp breaker with a dual pole breaker delivering 240 volts. Get a 240 volt AC etc. Replace the outlets on those circuits with 240 volt outlets. Many computers and more can run on 120 or 240 interchangeably. I know this is a problem for most devices. You could also get a couple 240 to 120 volt tranformers to provide some 120 VAC to some other devices. A 240 volt circuit can provide twice the power over the same 14 AWG wires.


Now that you have discarded that idea, how about adding a new 20 amp circuit into the breaker box. Run the wiring under the trailer, and either fish wires into the walls,, or install an outlet or two into the floor. So you would add a circuit, keeping the existing outlets on the 15 amp breaker.

 

[Afjes]

Glad you are following our advice. That is what we are here for. We all are not always correct and we even correct one another here and there but overall we can be a big help.

 

[RonP]

This is a wild idea, that you are not likely to implement: replace that single pole 15 amp breaker with a dual pole breaker delivering 240 volts. Get a 240 volt AC etc. Replace the outlets on those circuits with 240 volt outlets. Many computers and more can run on 120 or 240 interchangeably. I know this is a problem for most devices. You could also get a couple 240 to 120 volt tranformers to provide some 120 VAC to some other devices. A 240 volt circuit can provide twice the power over the same 14 AWG wires.


Now that you have discarded that idea, how about adding a new 20 amp circuit into the breaker box. Run the wiring under the trailer, and either fish wires into the walls,, or install an outlet or two into the floor. So you would add a circuit, keeping the existing outlets on the 15 amp breaker.

Thank you for the ideas. Both of those methods sound like more $ and labor than I am willing to commit. It really is a minor inconvenience, at best. Which is why I was taking a shot at a $10, 10 minute fix. But I appreciate your time.

 

[Afjes]

or run an occasional extension cord to one of the (very) few outlets NOT on this single 15 amp breaker.

and

using either an electric smoker or a countertop oven outside

Just keep in mind these 4 things with extension cords
#1 - use one as short as possible to get to where you need it to reach to. The shorter the better.
#2 - make sure that the extension cord you use is heavy duty, look to be sure it is at least 12 gauge
#3 - Be sure the extension cord has a ground (3 holes)
#4 - If you use anything outdoors you want to use this GFCI adapter which you would plug into the receptacle and then plug the extension cord into this adapter. It will protect you from ground faults. If you plug your extension cord into an existing GFCI receptacle in the house then no need to use this adapter. This adapter is rated at 15amps but has 12 gauge so it should be good for 20amps. HomeDepot is known for incorrect product listing. Just double check when you buy it that it is at least 12 gauge.

 

[Jeff H Young]

a very old panel it must be to have 30 amp . possible the breaker is wore out . with the 10 budget in mind try swapping them it might work better, less popped breakers

 

[Afjes]

This is a wild idea, that you are not likely to implement: replace that single pole 15 amp breaker with a dual pole breaker delivering 240 volts. Get a 240 volt AC etc. Replace the outlets on those circuits with 240 volt outlets. Many computers and more can run on 120 or 240 interchangeably. I know this is a problem for most devices. You could also get a couple 240 to 120 volt tranformers to provide some 120 VAC to some other devices. A 240 volt circuit can provide twice the power over the same 14 AWG wires.

Not advisable AT ALL. I would highly suggest you do not do this. Wild is right!
Changing the circuit to 240v from 120v will not help at all in this case. Even if the OP only ran 240v devices on this circuit. Changing the circuit from 120v to 240v in this case can fry some other things that may be on the circuit and actually will not help. Increasing the volts from 120v to 240v will not allow you to run more on the circuit. Changing the wiring of 15amp breaker 14 gauge wiring to 20amp 12 gauge wiring will.

RomP please do not follow this suggestion. You can fry somethings on the circuit.

 

[Jeff H Young]

op said he looking for a 10 dollar fix or 10 minutes thats why I thought the breaker might be weak and its free

 

[Reach4]

Not advisable AT ALL. I would highly suggest you do not do this. Wild is right!
Changing the circuit to 240v from 120v will not help at all in this case. Even if the OP only ran 240v devices on this circuit. Changing the circuit from 120v to 240v in this case can fry some other things that may be on the circuit and actually will not help. Increasing the volts from 120v to 240v will not allow you to run more on the circuit.

If this were carried out, he would switch outlets to 240 volts. He would use only devices that would work with 240 volts. It would allow you to run more Watts, and a 240 air conditioner would be more a much easier load (about half of the current).

So you must be suspecting that there could be something that is hardwired in, such as a doorbell transformer on that circuit.

So not economical. Not convenient. But not unsafe, unless you go with the hidden wired-in device.

 

[Eman85]

OK, I have the $10 fix. It's a MH so it should have a disconnect with a main breaker outside where the meter is or where the service comes to the home. The disconnect box usually has room under the main for a few breakers. You can easily install a breaker there and put an outdoor outlet for your outdoor stove. You can make it a 20 amp breaker/outlet with a GFCI. OK I went over the $10 budget but it's a simple fix.