Fridge Water Line Problem

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EyeAmTheVictor

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The copper line coming through the wall for the fridge was bent and creased. I thought it would be a simple fix, but it appears the saddle valve under the sink was glued on. I tried to turn the valve and it started leaking. What would be the best way to fix this? I figured a rubber boot like thing over the saddle valve hole. And change the valve at the end to have 2 out puts? Here is a picture of the cramped space.
image.jpg
 

Terry

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A nice fix would be to cut back to some good copper and install a double valve on that.
A rubber piece over the hole would work too...........I like nice.

Also, I would think of changing the p-trap to the sink. Yeowh!

instant-hot-stop-1.jpg
 
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Gary Swart

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In my opinion, you have two problems. First is the saddle valve. These are crap and should be replaced by a tee in the supply line then a ball valve in the line to the fridge followed by fittings to reduce and adapt to a 1/4 copper tube. The second problem is the use of the copper line all the way to the fridge. There are several ways to do this, but converting the 1/4" copper to a flexible ice maker line is the end result. This line will not kink and will still give you the flexibility to move the fridge. Yes, it will cost a few bucks, more if you can't sweat a copper joint, but will give you a better job.
 

Jadnashua

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The magic to making a copper line work on a fridge is to make a BIG loop behind the thing. I have probably a 5' diameter loop behind my fridge which allows me to pull the fridge out without any stress on the line at all. A flexible supply hose can work, too.

I'm not a fan of a rubber patch. If you're lucky, you'll have enough of a stub sticking out that you could cut that holed piece off, and still have enough to put on a double shutoff...much neater solution. Worst case, you could solder on a coupling and extend it enough to then install a new double valve. That would seal the hole under most circumstances, depending on exactly where it is and how much length you have.
 

EyeAmTheVictor

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If I cut the pipe at the saddle valve, do I have to somehow thread the pipe to add the valve? Or is there another way to attach another part of the pipe?
 

Jadnashua

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If you can cut off the hole created by the saddle valve, and the pipe that's left is long enough, you have one easy choice, and a couple of slightly harder ones. If the pipe is nice and round and enough is sticking out, get yourself a dual outlet compression valve. This just needs a pair of wrenches to install the new valve - one to hold the valve steady, and the second one to tighten down the nut that makes the compression seal. If you can't get enough pipe length, but the hole is close to the end, you could probably get a valve designed to be soldered on.

If there isn't enough sticking out, you'll need to make the pipe longer - typically by soldering on a coupling, and then a short stub of pipe long enough to put on a compression shutoff valve, or a solder on one.
 

Gary Swart

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If you can cut off the hole created by the saddle valve, and the pipe that's left is long enough, you have one easy choice, and a couple of slightly harder ones. If the pipe is nice and round and enough is sticking out, get yourself a dual outlet compression valve. This just needs a pair of wrenches to install the new valve - one to hold the valve steady, and the second one to tighten down the nut that makes the compression seal. If you can't get enough pipe length, but the hole is close to the end, you could probably get a valve designed to be soldered on.

If there isn't enough sticking out, you'll need to make the pipe longer - typically by soldering on a coupling, and then a short stub of pipe long enough to put on a compression shutoff valve, or a solder on one.


Problem is with the big loop, sooner or later you'll goof up a kink it. They make flex lines as I previously recommended. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but I'm sure they are available elsewhere. Tapping into the supply line shouldn't be too much problem. It can be done with compression fittings or by soldering a tee in. In either case, the hole the saddle valve made has to be cut out.
 

Reach4

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Why use one without a stop?
To permit the coupling to slide across the undamaged section to get to the hole.

Obviously we were thinking of cutting at different places.
 
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