Fridge Ice Maker Water Line Burst - HELP!

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Franner11

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Hey guys - Fran here again...
Had a hard plastic type line break (snapped) a couple of years ago, so I mistakenly (I guess) put in a new line of the flexible 1/4" pvc/rubbery line after the shut off valve and ran it to the fridge using the old fittings.
Well, that puppy burst at about midnight last night. We don't use very much ice in our house, so we usually have a full ice bin and have the arm on the "off" position. I guess water has been building up and "ballooning" that rubbery/flexible pvc line for a while now, and it finally gave way.
That said, what is the correct type of tube to reinstall?
The shut off valve would not completely stop the water from coming through, so I tied the end of the pvc line off in a knot. It held up overnight (I think it's a slight trickel of water, not free flowing) and didn't leak.
Bad thing is, I have to work today, so I won't be able to fix the problem until this evening.
My other issue is this: I know I'll probably have to turn off the main water line to work on this line (since the old shut off valve won't stop the water completely). The old shut off valve is connected to a 1/4" copper line. I probably need to replace that fitting, but I don't have all the tools to remove it and "sweat" a new valve, until I can get a friend who does, to help out.
Could I possibly keep about a 2" piece of the flexible line intact in the old valve and install a new shut off valve after that 2" piece, then install the correct hard pvc 1/4" line to the fridge?
Can anyone help clarify for me and set me in the right direction?
Thanks a million guys!
 

Jimbo

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Wow! Everything is wrong here. The tubing you used is wrong from both a pressure and sanitation standpoint. The needle valve is wrong. And the knot tied in the tube is so wrong! I know you are in a serious situation, but that is possibly the most outrageous trick we have ever heard.


It sound like you need to turn off the main water supply to the house, to prevent damage. If the house stop leaks, have the water company come out and turn off the curb stop. Most places I think do this for free.

To avoid soldering, use the sharkbite line of couplings, tees, valves, etc. to get a proper repair done here. In the future you should have a plumber put it together solidly, but sharkbites are perfectly sound and acceptable.
www.cashacme.com
 

Jadnashua

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I used soft copper as my run to the frig. There's about maybe a 5' diameter loop behind the frig that gives me plenty of length to move it in and out without kinking things. It is connected using a compression fitting to the ball stop valve back under the sink.

You can buy 2 and 3 outlet shutoff valves for under the sink, so you can hook up multiple things. I chose to use a separate valve, but that isn't necessary. You may be able to just replace the shutoff for the sink's cold with a dual outlet version, and then run a new line to the frig from that. Depending on the existing valve, you may not need to do any soldering. If you have a saddle valve tapping off a line for the frig, you may want to replace that section of pipe and cut that out of there entirely. There is a Sharkbite fitting that would allow you to do that without soldering as well. I forget the name, but it is about 4" long, and basically one end is fixed, and you can slide the other end over the pipe. You can use it to fill in for a short section of pipe you cut out. It comes with the little tool to release the clamp so you can slide it into place. There are some braided SS lines made for icemakers that should be pretty reliable, but soft copper can be cut to whatever size you need and works well to, and would be a custom fit.
 

Gary Swart

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The best tubing to use is copper. The saddle tee connector should be replaces by putting a tee in the supply pipe then ball valve with adapters to connect the copper tubing. A plumber would quickly and easily solder the tee into the supply line, run the copper tubing, and make the connection to the valve. This setup would last forever. The ball valve will give you an easy and positive way to shut the water off when necessary. Sharkbite connectors will work and give good results, I just prefer soldering.
 

Franner11

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Well, after a few beers and it being midnight, there wasn't much I could do but tie a knot in it - did what I had to do.
I was working with the old stuff that was already there. What's a girl to do when I don't have a huge plumbing code book sitting around telling me what's right and wrong?! Don't get me wrong - I appreciate your advice.
I'll look for a shark bite valve thing at Lowes at lunch today. Hopefully they'll have something similar.
 

Jadnashua

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HD now carries Sharkbite fittings. Lowes seems to carry Watts version. Personally, I think the Sharkbite fittings are much more robust.
 

Redwood

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No it is an individual part. I would also look at the braided stainless steel ice maker supply tubes. I would install one if them over plastic or, copper anyday! Do not get the Watts Floodsafe version!
 

Herk

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I use 1/4" OD PEX tubing for icemaker lines. Much harder to damage than the polyethylene tube. And I avoid needle valves. Something doesn't sound quite right about your needle valve on a 1/4" pipe - the pipe should be 1/2" or perhaps 3/8" . . . which is only important when knowing what you're hooking to.

Taysan - the floodsafe connectors have been reported as having a lot of problems, such as shutting down for no reason or breaking and flooding.

A real icemaker box with hammer arrestor.

icemaker_box.jpg
 
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Franner11

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the line coming from the crawlspace is a 1/4" copper line.
they didn't have 1/4" sharkbite valves. had to buy the kind like the one that currently won't shut off.
i ended up buying a 10' supply of 1/4 copper line and a new union to connect to the fridge.
i'll give it a shot tonight.
 

Alternety

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My answer to "why not floodsafe" - not sure of the brand but I went through 3 of the things. The surge when you turn on the line disables them. If it is a new install, the air coming out before the water gets there will also do it.
 

hj

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floodsafe

When you first turn on the shut off valve you have to do it slowly or the Floodsafe will think the line burst and shut off. If you open the faucet too quickly the same thing will happen and you have to disconnect the Floodsafe from the valve to reset it.
 

Dj2

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I read "Pay Attorneys' fees ...as ordered by the court of up to 30% ($4.2 million)" - for sure.

Then I read "Class members...can get UP TO $40" - If they are lucky, slim chance.

And finally I read: "Class members filing a claim for property damages can recover up to 25% of their documented property damage repair cost" - will never happen.

I'm still waiting for my $10 settlement from a class action suit against Levi's in 1978.
 
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