Franklin Well Control Box Overload Trips

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Pacecapt

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My well is 13.5 years old, it is a 1.5 Hp submersible pump (I don't know the manufacturer) that is down about 115 ft (I use this system for irrigation only). I replaced a water logged tank in August 2016 and the system ran fine until this past week (mid-October) and I realized the pump was not running. I discovered the the start capacitor had blown, the whole well control box was original and if rough shape so I just replaced the whole box with an identical WCB. Since I had the system apart I also replaced the Pressure Switch with an identical (40-60 psi) one. Here is the problem, while running the irrigation system, it will charge the tank to proper pressure once or twice but then the Overload (Thermocouple) will trip and has to be reset before working again. I am a fairly certain I have everything wired properly (especially since it will run a couple of times before tripping). I am concerned it might be the pump, Any ideas? When it runs I have good, solid flow, clean water.
 
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Reach4

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You could measure the current draw while the pump is running, using a clamp-around ammeter. I would expect under 12 amps while running if I am reading correctly.
 

Pacecapt

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You could measure the current draw while the pump is running, using a clamp-around ammeter. I would expect under 12 amps while running if I am reading correctly.
Here are the readings I received on my pump tests...1.5HP Motor:
Bl: 12.73A Max; Y: 13.27A Max; R: 3.62A Max 1.35A Running
Pump Ohm Check: Y&Bl: 2.0 Ohms; Y&R: 9.0 Ohms
The pump is ohming with zero grounds detected.

It cycled on several times while running my Amp checks without tripping the Thermocouple/Overload (I had a hose running on the tank spigot). I just tried to run a sprinkler test and the thermocouple tripped (Frustrating).
New WCB and Pressure Tank and Switch...Any suggestions?
 

Reach4

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Take a look at "Table 13 Single-Phase Motor Specifications (60 Hz) 3450 rpm" in the Franklin AIM manual, and see what you think. The currents seem a little high. I think your current readings are while running, because they are way low for during start. It could be that the motor is bigger than 1.5 HP, or there could be another problem. Your ohmmeter readings don't seem to indicate much wire resistance, but that makes sense. 12AWG is 1.588 ohms per 1000 ft, and you only have about 230 ft of wire round trip.

I think I might consider putting the old box back as a test... or maybe swap out the start capacitor in the old box before trying the old box.

I have no experience with this stuff. Just reading the manual.
 

Pacecapt

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Take a look at "Table 13 Single-Phase Motor Specifications (60 Hz) 3450 rpm" in the Franklin AIM manual, and see what you think. The currents seem a little high. I think your current readings are while running, because they are way low for during start. It could be that the motor is bigger than 1.5 HP, or there could be another problem. Your ohmmeter readings don't seem to indicate much wire resistance, but that makes sense. 12AWG is 1.588 ohms per 1000 ft, and you only have about 230 ft of wire round trip.

I think I might consider putting the old box back as a test... or maybe swap out the start capacitor in the old box before trying the old box.

I have no experience with this stuff. Just reading the manual.

Thanks for the tips, I already switched the relay switch out from the new to the old one and it is still doing the same thing. Runs a few minutes then trips. I am really guessing on the pump size based on the control box being a 1-1.5hp model.
 

Valveman

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Your pump was cycling on and off a lot to start with. This cracked the diaphragm in the pressure tank, which let out the air charge, which caused the pump to rapid cycle. One day of rapid cycling from a waterlogged tank is more than a year of wear on the pump. The relay, start cap, and pressure switch problems are further signs of too much cycling. The overload will trip a few times, then it just won't come on at all. You are going to need a new pump/motor. Cycling will swell the motor winding, wear the bearing, and the carbon will just float around in the motor further grinding stuff down. 13 years is a really good run for a pump that cycles all the time. Most would have only lasted a few years at best. The less your pump cycles, the longer it will last.
 

Pacecapt

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Your pump was cycling on and off a lot to start with. This cracked the diaphragm in the pressure tank, which let out the air charge, which caused the pump to rapid cycle. One day of rapid cycling from a waterlogged tank is more than a year of wear on the pump. The relay, start cap, and pressure switch problems are further signs of too much cycling. The overload will trip a few times, then it just won't come on at all. You are going to need a new pump/motor. Cycling will swell the motor winding, wear the bearing, and the carbon will just float around in the motor further grinding stuff down. 13 years is a really good run for a pump that cycles all the time. Most would have only lasted a few years at best. The less your pump cycles, the longer it will last.

Thanks for the diagnosis. I was concerned it might have been the pump as well. It did run for about 2 months after changing out the pressure tank so I guess that has been throughing my off. I have a well guy coming to look at it, he also said 13 years was a good run on a pump.
 
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