framing out replacement windows

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KHeinz

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My husband and I just bought a 100 yr old house and are doing a ton of work ourselves. Most of the windows are being replaced by professionals, but there were two windows in the back addition we wanted to save money on, b/c we didn't need to save the original trim, didn't need to keep original dimensions, etc. We got some salvaged replacement windows, took out the original frames/windows (they were rotten), and my husband framed out new openings for the salvaged windows. I've read that the only real difference b/n replacement windows and new construction windows is the nail fin. Is this true? We want to make sure that we do the flashing correctly, and are also perplexed if a windowsill is needed for any reason if we use flashing and caulk, etc. The vinyl siding is off, and we will re-side, so working around existing siding isn't an issue (though trimming the window properly once we start siding is).

My questions are:
1. Are we crazy for framing out a space for a replacement window? Is a new construction window our only option? I'm just not seeing any info online about this. My husband is handy at problem solving, framing out new walls, and other basic carpentry things. This is just a new area of challenge for us. The new windows are in - at least temporarily, and they didn't leak when it rained.

2. How should we install flashing properly? Is there a site you can point us to? I've found it for new construction windows, but didn't know if we should do something different in our situation.

3. Do we need a window sill or can the window be flush to the outside, as long as flashing is directing the water away from the wood - ie maybe over the house wrap?

Thanks for any input you can give!
 

Statjunk

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I'm not a window installer but I've done a few in my day.

1) Yes you can use a replacement window no problem but a new construction window is easier to install.

2) There may be more to this but this is how I do it. You need cover the frame about a foot high on each side of the lower part of the frame and along the bottom plate of the frame with adhesive window flashing. You mount the window in the frame and hang the window outside the thickness of the siding minus maybe 1/4". You fill in the gap between the frame and the window with insulating foam. I then seal the exterior with exterior caulk. The final step is to cover the gap between the window and the frame with the adhesive window flashing (comes on a roll).

3) The window needs to stick out the thickness of the siding.

Good Luck

Tom
 

KHeinz

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ok...sorry....I thought your response would be tidings of great joy, but they turned out to be tidings of great stress. I just spoke with my husband on the phone, and he's not sure how to get the window to stick out the thickness of the siding, b/c there will be 2.5-3 inches of "stuff" (the old wood siding and furrowing strips) beyond the wall frame. He's afraid that if we install the window further out, so that it is nearly flush with the siding (minus 1/4 "), it will not have any structural support holding it in the wall. Does that mean we should have framed it out with 2X6s instead of 2X4s?

thanks...
 

Statjunk

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This is slightly outside the scope of my experience but my gut, tells me that you can't stick a window out that far since that is deeper than most standard replacement windows. You'll have to wait for someone with this kind of experience stops by.

In addition consider what framing out the windows in 2x6 would do to the look of the window. You will have a very large sill. Not sure what you're going for here.

I'm also going to assume that you can't get rid of the exterior layers because of asbestos so I won't even bother to suggest that you remove the old "stuff".

Tom
 

KHeinz

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Well the good news is that we are right with you on every point you made. The bad news is well....the obvious :) If anyone out there has dealt with a similar problem, we'd love to hear from you!

Thanks, Tom.....you've been helpful and I appreciate your time in answering my questions.
 
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