Flushmate versus Gmax or other method, likelyhood of clogging

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Miketinternet

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Will a regular model (900 gram Toto) on Terry's ratings list with a higher gram number do better than a flushmate model(American Standard 750 gram) or will flushmate be less likely to clog because it is more power?

I have purchased a new toilet in the past year that is not living up to it's flush ratings(american standard champion 4) and I want to get the best I can find to stop clogging in a ground level (slab house) toilet.

Any help would be appreciated
 

Terry

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For plug resistance, the Drake and the Champion 4 are pretty similar.
If you're plugging the Champion on a regular basis, either the outlet is blocked, or there is some other issue.

Other issue could be a medical condition, sometimes with certain medications.
Larger then normal stools.
Normal stools are 3/4" x 4"
That is what the MaP testing uses, and those are wrapped in plastic so that they slide through easier.

But first, if you are using Charmin paper, get rid of it. It's mainly cotton based and is a cause of many plugs. If cleaning is that important that someone is using cotton wipes, then they should install a bidet seat. You will be much cleaner and healthier, and paper usage will drop to almost nothing.

For those larger then normal stools, I've used the Caroma with large trapway, and I've heard of some success with the Kohler Highline with Flushmate. I've been meaning to add those to the web site, My Seattle price on those is $399.99 and it should be gettable locally everywhere.
The Caroma is a little less, and is a bit harder to find.

If the plugs are happening in the main line, not in the bowl or trapway, then the Flushmate does push it down pretty good. Though most plugs happen right in the trapway of the bowl.
 

Miketinternet

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I have kids with no medical issues so I am not sure if that is the issue. They use a new Gerber that I bought upstairs with no problems. It is the basement level toilet/line that is the problem. If they would listen and just went up stairs for the big one it would solve the problem but kids don't listen as you probably know.

I have a newer bathroom(7 years old) with a toilet, sink and tub(left to right) connected to the line going down to the main line to the septic system. The toilet I got with the bathroom renovation always seemed to get clogged by the kids so I figured I would replace it with the Champion 4 last year. It was getting clogged occasionally and then it started to leak at the flange where it has never leaked before. The plumber came back and replaced the ring but said he is not sure if it will stay sealed and that the flange is broken. He said the need to plunge is probably due to the shallow pitch on the line.

You had mentioned in a prior post that plungable clogs are usually point to the toilet. Another poster said that if water is coming from the plunge that the clog is in the line and I am drawing water up through the flange. I think the line is clear because everything from the sink + tub goes down with no issues so I was thinking that the clog is somewhere between the toilet and sink and the flushmate will push things along better. Can a plunger also unclog a line or is it more like a flushmate action because you are forcing air/water down?

It is hard to find people to call you back on trouble shooting problems like this so I figured I would just bite the bullet and get a flushmate equipped toilet and then call a plumber to do an install and fix the flange at the same time. The last guy told me he had to break the floor to fix the flange which after reading this forum was dead wrong.
 

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If you want to sweep the main line, then get something with the Flushmate.

Plunging a toilet can break the wax seal, so when you pump up and down with a plunger, you can also break the seal.
 

Miketinternet

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Might have the answer, offset flange?

I had a plumber come in and check everything out and I think I might have the answer. When they put the bathroom in they used an offset flange which also had two small plastic prongs in the pipe area of the flange. We clipped off the prongs since they could possibly catch something on the way out but I would guess I lose a percentage of flushing performance with the flange.

If this continues to have flushing issues I guess I need to get into the floor and swap out the flange so it is a clear shot and then I would guess the American Standard would be fine?

It is too bad they did it this way with a new installation and additionally I see there are better offset flanges out there that allow better flow.
 
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