Floor drain in laundry room?

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Vegas_sparky

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Working on renovating my upstairs laundry room. The same room holds a WH. Finished space is below. Before I tile the floor I'm considering adding a floor drain/sink, in the event there's a problem with one of the appliances/water supplies.

I have a 3" main drain running under floor in the room. I have a wall I can vent up through. Since water shouldn't regularly be introduced to this drain, is a trap primer required? If so, how are these typically plumbed/tied in above the P-trap?
 
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hj

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yes it is required, IF the drain is connected to the sanitary system. The TP line either hangs above the drain or connects to a tapping in the drain body or trap riser below the drain.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Thanks, HJ. :) You say IF its tied into the sanitary system. I could just as easily run a drain line, and dump it outside. It would only be potential gray water. Is that a legal option? I'm guessing a P trap wouldn't be required in that circumstance, as there is no threat of dangerous gasses? I'd think I'd want a minimum 2" drain, and pipe to evacuate water quickly? I have no idea.

For the primer supply, what should be used to throttle the water? I would have plenty of room in a trap riser to make a tap. Is there a saddle type tap available for 2" ABS?

I'd rather do this now, while its easy, than regret not doing it later. I did a lot of work on the supply lines in this room. Us sparkys aren't known for making the best watertight connections.
 

Jadnashua

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IF it were in say a bathroom, sometimes, they'd tap into the toilet fill line and run some of the water to the trap while the toilet was flushed. I wonder if you could put a tap in the trap of the washing machine, and run a very small line to the floor drain? Hassle is, there's a lot of lint, etc. in the outlet of a WM, and the line might get clogged easily. It would be harder to get throttled water from the WM, but if you used that, at least you'd know you were putting clean water there, that may not smell as soap scum and crud from a WM drain. Even a valve that had a very slow drip feeding the trap may be enough. This one relies on the pressure drop when you open a valve to also then run water to the trap... http://www.proflo.com/proflo/showRecordDetail.do?R=PROD_2229366&search=true This one is a lot less expensive http://dar.proflo.com/darmanager/Query?PRODUCT_ID=303394&USE_TYPE=SPECIFICATION I'm sure there are others...one of the pros may have some brand/model preferences...but, there are devices out there designed to do what you need.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Okay fellas,

I opened the floor, and cut into a 3" drain. I used a 3" x 2" Santee(?) rolled up at a 45°. Then a couple of 2" 22 1/2° ells to get it close to level.

IMG_20150404_093944331.jpg


From there it hits a 2" x 1 1/2" Santee for a vent riser, and finishes with a 2" solvent P trap, riser, and Sioux Cheif general purpose drain.

_20150404_095132.JPG


I'm waiting for it all to set up, and then check for leaks.

I'm just guessing at all of this. Is it close enough to "right" to work? It hopefully will never see much water. I installed this in case of a washing machine/WH failure.
 
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