Flip-flop toilet and sink location in small bath - need to mess with vent pipes?

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SER

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Hi, I'm doing a remodel on a small 5x8 bathroom to switch the position of the toilet and sink/vanity (shower is staying put). Sorry for the non-precise terms for things, thanks in advance for any help.

My galvanized vent piping looks in pretty good shape and I'm trying to keep this easy and not mess with it.

With the short distance I am moving the two fixtures, I'm looking for some experienced advice on if the distances look good enough to just keep the vents in place and essentially only lengthen the existing drain piping.

a) Sink: replace the current connection to the trap arm so it runs inside the wall for about 32 inches and then give it a 90 degree turn out of the wall and connect up a trap as normal. It's 1 1/2" pipe.

b) Toilet: Cut the cast iron on the toilet drain with a snap cutter and replace it with ABS, lengthen it about 32" in the other direction. It's 4" and goes right to the main drain out of the house. The vent going up and out the roof 2" (single story).

Thanks!

IMG_20160518_213823130.jpg
 
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Can you get your phone in there and get a few pics of under there that we can't see?

Please use a desklamp, anything with a household light bulb to brighten things up to clarity.

Please remove that sewage drop cloth when taking a pic.

I do not understand your drawing at all.
 

SER

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Can you get your phone in there and get a few pics of under there that we can't see?

Please use a desklamp, anything with a household light bulb to brighten things up to clarity.

Please remove that sewage drop cloth when taking a pic.

I do not understand your drawing at all.
 

SER

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Thanks so much. Here are two more pictures showing the situation. Again, the goal is to swap the location of the sink and toilet, looking to see if I can leave the existing venting in place.
 

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I still can't figure out where your verticals end up under there.

What does the left vertical go to?

What does the right vertical go to?

The pic: IMG_20160519_080959927.jpg , which vertical is it? And the 4" is blocking the view, can't make it out.

You need to understand, we can't be there on-site in-person to see your layout.

Providing scale pipe diagrams is difficult for many, so the easiest thing for you to do is post proper pics, that is, if you want people to help.
 

Terry

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You can wet vent the lav over the toilet using the existing 2" vent pipe.
You could cut in a 2" x 1.5" santee for the lav.

Or you can turn the existing lav santee and plumb like your drawing. The 1.5" trap arm can be as long as 42"
The toilet trap arm can be as long as 72".
 

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Thanks Terry. The wet vent approach was my plan B option; looking like it may be just as easy to go that route. Appreciate the speedy response.
 

SER

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As for the visible stuff above the floor, you'll surely be working on demo for the 2" galvandized, so this may apply to you:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-it-enters-the-crawl-space.65557/#post-486684

Thanks for the great resource!

With trying to keep this as easy as possible, any concern with just cutting out a ~1' section of the 2" steel vent with a sawzall, replacing it with some ABS pipe on both ends of 2" x 1 1/2" Sanitee (from Terry's suggestion) and putting it in place with some flexible couplings on each end?
IMG_20160518_213757209.jpg


Bottom of wet vent where it connects to toilet drain:

IMG_20160519_080959927.jpg
 

Terry

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mission_bandseal.jpg


Metal covered couplings. The rubber ones without the shield shift on the pipes and are not legal fittings.
The type in the picture above are legal.
 
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any concern with just cutting out a ~1' section of the 2" steel vent with a sawzall
Couplings are great.

I just have a problem with them when they are sealed up in walls.

I prefer couplings placed in basements, open ceilings, where the homeowner can keep an eye it on as the decades roll along.

On that right vertical, where you want to cut, use only one coupling, inside the crawlspace.

You won't need a 2nd coupling if you remove the vertical from the crawlspace and all the way to the Tee. Keep the Tee.

You'll use a threaded 2" ABS fitting to thread into that Tee. Then assemble and glue your way down, fasten the coupling inside the crawlspace to a little stubbie you left from that old vertical.

This way you have zero couplings in hidden drywall to worry about.

Should the coupling in the crawlspace leak, at least it will leak directly to the ground, and will be an easy swap.
 

Terry

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I have done complete buildings using cast iron and no-hub couplings. This is a six story building I plumbed that only had this type of couplings.
If he doesn't mind working in the crawl though, I'm all for replacing that old galvanized with new pipe since he has it open.

becu_800.jpg
 

SER

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Thanks, appreciate all the input!

I know the electrical side of this, and all the old 2 wire non-grounded stuff bothers me I'm guessing like the galvanized pipe does a qualified plumber - the walls are open, get it out when you can! Just trying to avoid getting out over my skis with my limited plumbing experience and equipment. For example, getting the male end of the pipe running into the T scares me - I picture putting my wrench through the sheetrock somehow - but will give it a shot once I cut the pipe.

Thanks again

(fyi - in my area this job is too small to get anyone other than a random handyman to come and do it, so taking the opportunity to learn it myself.)
 

Terry

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I sawzall the galvanized and use a shielded coupling.
I will change a pipe nipple from a santee on a trap arm, but the other stuff I just cut and couple.
If I'm going into a poured hub, I will uses a Fernco insert into the hub, soap up the tapereed pipe and pound it in.

Say for example, on the 2" above the toilet, if you cut it and the pipe becomes loose in the fitting, you can snug the lead up by tapping a flat blade around the circle of lead and squeezing it tighter against the pipe and hub. Or just pull it and redo the joint.
 
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in my area this job is too small to get anyone other than a random handyman to come and do it
Seriously? On what grounds?

Because this kind of job is usually a money magnet.

This is EXACTLY the type of job that a licensed professional would do and complete timely.

I would gladly give the homeowner a visit and a quote for the job. I like money.

Non-big box stores that specialize in toilets and tiles, they will have their own contractors that would glady accept your signature on a purchase to begin the job.
 
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