Any further thoughts on this?
I'm not a plumber but I want to be able to know what the options are when discussing with my plumber.
I have a similar situation where the drain is directly over an 3"x8" joist.
Its a 100 year old house and 50 years ago a not so great renovation was done...
On the old tub the drain exited at 90 degrees (ie toward the front apron) to mate with a tower stopper on the other side of the tub.
That only needed a small ~ 2 inch notch for the drain itself.
I never really thought about it but now i realize the tower was also the overflow.
Unfortunately to accommodate the tower and the trap, they completely butchered the next joist over, I mean a 6-7 inch deep notch, by 10 inches wide ! (criminal if you ask me)
Any way, on the new installation the tower will be gone (and that joist has been repaired), and the new tub will have the standard drain + overflow. So I'm looking for options to avoid another hack job, this time in the joist directly under the drain.
A standard drain that goes straight back to the overflow tee and then down is out of the question.
I'd love to have drain exit the same way it used (at 90 degrees / towards the front apron), and then meet the overflow in the space between the joists, then continue horizontally out the main stack.
Even if I could get it to exit at 45 degrees i think that would be enough.
So is this Watco flex924 a good brand and product. As mentioned I'm not in the trade and never heard of them; nor can I find much info outside of their web site.
Also I noticed they have a "NY" tee version of the brass, which loos like it's made to exit on the side instead of going down. That would take a long notch but not too deep. Is that a special local code for New York? ( sorry like I said - not a plumber)
Any other options?
Thanks!