Fleck 5600sxt ?

[dun4791]

Hi all.

I just purchased a Fleck 5600sxt, 48k. I will be installing it next Monday as that's my next day off. .....I am in the process of gathering parts and unpacking my purchase. I have 1" incoming lines and a kenmore genius 2 that I installed 15 years ago that I'm now replacing because it doesn't seem to work anymore and I don't want to put time, money into it. I have the 1"stainless bypass.
Couple questions on install.

1.. my unit does not have a plastic top screen, or distributor the name I have found in searching. I called my supplier, he states I don't need it because I do not have fine resin, is this true?

2..I want to hard line this install, are you guys just using 1"male sweat, or a union there?

On programming. ..

I will search more. 3 bathrooms, 5 people. I ordered a Sach and will test, but last I remember it was 20 not much iron. Is it as complicated as it seems so far? Lol. Or is there a basic formula?

Thanks in advance, I will keep everyone posted on my progress, this is a great forum for info! Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

On programming, 20 ppm would be a *lot* of iron. 0.20 ppm would be a moderate amount of iron, 0.020 would be a small amount of iron.

Plug your numbers into http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php

Since you already have a 1.5 cubic ft softener, modify the number of people to give 1.5 as the answer in the "is the minimum cubic foot size of softener required for your capacity needs" box.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

If you are going to sweat the system with copper, there is a 1" sweat adapter available for that valve that works nicely with the plastic bypass. No top screen? Seriously? In the race to the bottom, many companies do not include a top screen so that they can be $1 lower, truly pathetic. From a purely technical standpoint, they are correct that a top screen is not mandatory, but... diffusion of the incoming water into the top of the tank is important and a top screen does that very well. This is why the commercial systems usually do not have a top screen but rather a diffuser. We don't usually do diffusers on small residential system because the cost of a top screen is so low. Let me guess, they also didn't ship gravel because your system doesn't need it... lol. This simply saves them a few dollars in shipping while sacrificing your systems performance because another website beat their price by $1. This race to the bottom has really been fun to watch, Chinese knockoff valves, cheap brine tanks, lousy safety floats, resin that lasts 1-2 years if you are lucky, bottom screens that fail and fill the houses plumbing with resin... I am sure every person who works in this industry on this site has had to deal with the same problems due to the introduction of the low end parts market.

 

[dun4791]

Reach, thank you for the link. I'll report back with accurate numbers after I get the sach kit.

Ditto, where could I purchase the top screen? I found a YouTube video clearly showing this part as well. The tank was already filled with resin from quality water for less. ....I paid extra for CG8 resin tech. ... supposedly made here not overseas. However, everything was already in tank, no idea on the gravel or even if the resin I paid for is what is in there. I paid 579 shipped, but from same state, so also paid 44.87 in tax.

I purchased some 1"sweat to 1"pipe thread, so I will use those and hard pipe everything in, btw I know I need to build part of the spool on the bench, thread in and then sweat away from the bypass

Thank you so much for the input!

Edit, how would I know if I have authentic parts, or knockoffs?

Edit, edit, , hach not sach lol

 

[Harry W Munoz]

Hi out there,
Need help with my one year old Fleck 5600sxt (32k) system. Recently I noticed that the water metering system was stuck at 2400. I checked the brine intake/out valves-(clear); checked the in/out turbine water connections-(clear); did a manual regeneration and reprogrammed the system to the manual specification. Also, I did notice that the intake water turbine was not making any sounds when water was being used inside the house (it previously did make a turbine sound). The water icon on the meter is not displaying that water is flowing through it when I turn on a faucet. Is there anyone out there that can help me solve this, probably symptomatic, dilemma...HWM.

 

[ditttohead]

The turbine meter should be very quiet during operation, if it is making noise this would indicate that it is either having excessive water flow or could be showing some wear. You can remove the meter cable from the turbine and run a small magnet up and down it to see if the computer sees water flow. This would indicate the cable is good and that the turbine meter is no longer working.

 

[Harry W Munoz]

The turbine meter should be very quiet during operation, if it is making noise this would indicate that it is either having excessive water flow or could be showing some wear. You can remove the meter cable from the turbine and run a small magnet up and down it to see if the computer sees water flow. This would indicate the cable is good and that the turbine meter is no longer working.

Dear Dit,
I checked the turbine cable with magnet-"no water flow indicated on meter". I disconnected and checked the turbine outlet-"when I blow into it, it spins freely". There in no noise or water flow indication on meter when I open house water faucets. I suspect this might be an electric board problem with this meter (5600sxt- digital)? I've also manually backwashed and re-programmed the meter several times. Is there any way of checking to see if the meter board is non-functional?

 

[ditttohead]

Be patient, I was travelling this weekend on business. No need to start a new thread.

As stated, replace the cable, usually fixes it right up.