Five items going to floor drain in second floor utility room

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Rao, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Rao

    Rao New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Friends,

    I have a second floor utility room in my condo that I am working on bringing up to code.

    I am trying to deal with the floor drain and it has following five items to go to it:

    1) Air handler primary drain pan
    2) Air handler secondary drain pan
    3) (electric) Water heater T&P
    4) Water heater drain pan
    5) Washing Machine drain pan


    I am putting in new vinyl flooring tonight. I have new stacked washer dryer and new 12 year 50 gallon electric water heater waiting in the next room. I have had a plumber come and place new proper valves on my water heater supply and out lines, and a new laundry drain tub and new washer supply (two plumbers told me I could not place standpipe as I had originally planned). I have burst proof hoses also.

    My problem I would like to ask about is the floor drain and getting five items in. In the past I had fit them by tying Washer and Water heater Pan drains lines together before floor drain. So I had:
    - one 3/4" pvc (a/c primary) going down into center of the opening drain;
    - one 3/4" pvc from both washer and WH pans going down into center opening of drain
    - one 3/4 copper (T&P) sligtly above center opening in the drain;
    These three barely fit the center opening
    and
    - one secondary air handler pan 3/4" pvc going to the outer area of the drain (Which is fin since that would be slow flow if needed).

    I can replicate this and fit. But as I intend to sell shortly I sure would not like to all all this work and new equipment and get called on code.


    1) can washer and WH pans be tied together before the floor drain?
    2) If not what do I do? I have seen funnels that sit above and give a wider area, but they seem designed for T&P only as leave at the terminal point higher than the drain pans.
    3) my old pans were 3/4 fittings but the new ones are 1". Is that a new code requirement? (I am in Wash DC)
    i4) One plumber had said T&P can go to laundry tub. But googling I see home inspector forums that say violation due to scalding hazard

    I know I cannot fit
    two separate 1" pvc from pans (if 1" for pans is new code and I cant tie them); plus
    one 3/4 a/c primary;
    and have room for the t&P over an 3/4" open space all in that center area

    Suggestions?

    Thanks in advance!

    By the way I was happy to pay the plumber but I am tapped out!
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,050
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    They don't like the water heater T&P combined. It's a safety device under pressure.
    We typically daylight those above a drain. That way they won't siphon back.

    I would think the other drains could combine though.
    Most pans drain with 3/4".
    It's nice that they give you the 1" option though.
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  3. Rao

    Rao New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Thanks Terry I would not combine the T&P. with anything.
    I was going to use cpvc for that but I will go with copper because the OD is less even with same 3/4 Inner diameter.

    I was just wondering if there was a known code compliant trick of the trade to deal with this. My plumber is nice, but he knows I am selling nd am concerned about code, and he did not know that running the t&P to the sink was an inspection red flag


    I just dont know how to cram all that in.
    T&P must be independent
    AC primary really should be independent since it is continuous flow and might wet the other pans making it hard to watch for any water in WH or Washer pans
    AC secondary would be very low flow in the case of a problem and can be over outer area of drain

    I think I can just fit it if I combine washer and HW heater pans, but I would hate to do everything new and get called on that.

    FYI in 18 years of living here I have had just two leaks, both slow overflows of washer from incompletely closed fill shut off valves (one on a three year old GE top loader washer), both saved by a drip pan that was plumbed to the floor drain. So ironically placing a drain line from the washer pan is the one thing that is optional, yet it is the one thing I have found to be the most important!
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,687
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Your drain pan fittings may be 3/4" PVC on the inside to glue the pipe into them.
  5. Rao

    Rao New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Guys, my floor drain is about 5" diameter but the center opening is just about 2". Between the 5" and the 2" hole is an iron ring that is about 3/8" lower than floor level. I cannot see any way to remove this iron ring. It as a bit rusted but mainly I see no screws. It is early 70's construction.

    Do I have some kind of weird floor drain? how can I use the full 5" or at least more than the 2" center hole?

    If I put a funnel it would kill function as drain for floor and anyway a funnel would raise height and caused no function of drip pans since they are floor level.


    Is there some way to exploit the full 5" that I am missing??

    (PS that is my ac primary pictured. it is all I have plumbed and powered at the moment.)

    Here is a pic:
    utility room floor drain].jpg
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  6. Rao

    Rao New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Washington DC
    I can reduce washer drain pan to 3/4 as it is optional, but I can't reduce water heater drain from 1"
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