Fitting Toto to 13 7/16 rough-in to wall, but less with baseboard and shoe molding

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by Reach4, Jul 30, 2014.

  1. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,242
    Location:
    IL
    With the old knobs in place, I measured 13 7/16 rough-in to wall. I figured that one of the toilets that would take the 14-inch Unifit would fill the bill. I was between the Soiree and Vespin II. I bought the Unifit, and pulled the old toilet. Hmm. Soldered cast iron flange was in good shape. Moving that is impractical since it is on like a tee on a cast iron pipe that goes at right angles to the toilet centerline.

    With the 3/4 spacing to the wall, and the ability to "cheat" I had figured no problem. My first shock was when I tried placing the Unifit over the bolts. There was interference with the shoe molding.

    Since my flange has 3.5 inches ID and the outlet of the Unifit is about 2 1/4 inch, I figure to do a little cutting on the Unifit slots to let the Unifit move away from the wall . But how much? I realized that the Soiree does not have any rear taper for clearing baseboard or shoe molding. This picture said it to me: [​IMG]

    Then more carefully looking for other pictures confirmed that the Soiree is not going to be the best fit. I want an elongated toilet with Saniflush. I know I will have to do a little slot-enlargement on the Unifit. I want to minimize how far the toilet extends into the room. I could remove the shoe molding behind the toilet, but I would rather not. Which of these would best fit.

    Aimes, Guinivere, Carlyle , Vespin II, Lloyd, Legato are somewhat candidates. Carlysle might not deal with the supply nipple CL being 6 6/8 inches from the toilet CL (could cheat that a tad too) and 6 1/4 from the outer edge of that nipple.

    Suggestions?

    T_unifit_top.jpg

    I am running across an upload limit, so I will add another picture or two on a separated post.
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,242
    Location:
    IL
    T_unifit_side2.jpg
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    Personally, I'd probably just cut the shoe molding. But, see that straight section in the UniFit adapter? Carefully measure the OD of that pipe. If it is a standard size, you could cut it, use a special tool to ream out the socket, and then glue in a slightly shorter section of pipe. I'm not recommending this, but at least one other person has tried it on the board. Not sure how easy it would be to find compatible pipe, or what kind of cement would be required to make the bond, so there are a lot of unknowns here. At the worst, you use the 12" Unifit, and cheat it back towards the wall some.
  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,242
    Location:
    IL
    Vespin II and Carlisle II look like the best of the Unifit toilets for proving clearance in that area-- with Vespin II maybe a tiny bet better. Carlisle may be close but it might be tight in clearing the water supply. T_Vespin1.png
  5. fullysprinklered

    fullysprinklered Member

    Messages:
    129
    Location:
    Georgia
    Totos are great; I've been putting them in my houses since I first discovered them some years ago. They made the first 1.6 that actually worked well, in my opinion.
    I want to mention a couple of things about the unifit system.

    first, there's a learning curve to deal with if you've never done one. I felt like a monkey playing with a football when I opened up my first one. I don't know the various types by name, but you had to install these cleats in the floor and the toilet screws screwed into these from the side. Nothing wrong with the fixture; high quality piece of china, but I'm glad I did the job on an hourly rate. More involved than the traditional toilet, so don't bid it like it's the same old thing

    second, as mentioned, the base goes all the way to the baseboard. If the stop is tucked in behind the toilet, you might have to make some adjustments. Another possible unexpected and time consuming issue.

    third, on my last Unifit install, they had installed the dreaded porcelain tile, and I burned up every masonry and glass bit I had trying to install the four screws in the back wings of the unifit fitting. Advice would be welcome on this issue.
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,013
    Location:
    New England
    SOme porcelain tile is nearly as hard as diamond, so the tile will just laugh at a carbide bit!

    THe answer to this is to use a diamond core bit. A few minutes per hole, and if you do it properly, the bit will last many holes. The key to this is to not apply too much pressure, keep the bit wet, and don't run the rpm super high. A diamond core bit acts more like it is sanding a hole than traditional cutting with chips.

    It helps on tile to use a rope of plumber's putty and make a dam around where the hole will go, then fill it with some water. On a vertical surface, use a spray bottle and keep the bit wet. The prices of the things vary, as do their quality. The cheaper ones won't take a lot of abuse, but any tool will last longer if you take care of it.
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,005
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you move the bolts away from the wall, you can move the adapter. We sometimes use a flange repair ring for that.
    We also can get by with a 1/4" rotohammer a lot of the time.
    We charge the same for a TOTO with Unifit and the same for the standard Drake. It's all the same to us.
    We do charge more for the Aquia install, because they have the blocks that need setting toward the back.

    Sometimes we need to do something with the shutoff if it's right behind the bowl.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Most of the time the shutoff is off to the side though.
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Active Member

    Messages:
    2,242
    Location:
    IL
    Instead of using the 14 inch Unifit, I used the 12 inch. The hole in the cast iron flange was 3.5 inch diameter. The 2.25 inch exhaust port on the unifit is offset away from the wall. The hole for the Unifit is just past the inside of the cast iron hole, so there is no interference. T_unifit_as_built2.jpg

    I did that a couple weeks ago. Initially I have only shimmed enough under the toilet to give mult-point support of the base. I am thinking about shimming more in the back to bring the seat porcelain surface level. I have not sealed the edge yet. It does not look tilted by eye, but the level shows a tilt.
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2014
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