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juggalo6

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I have a "Galvanized Water Tank "setup . If I'm not mistaken, is it a check ball that the shrader and pressure switch is tapped into? I have went to my local Lowe's and with no luck finding this piece to replace the existing leaker(which was a check ball).I am a first time owner of a well and I don't know anything about them. I bought the land and well was already there. I have been reading up on this very usefull site and one thing I don't understand, I need to pressurize the tank to 38psi before adding water? I have a 40/60 switch. Also, (last question) when I ran power to the pump for the first time, it took about half an hour to reach 40psi (brand new gauge on side of tank) with the pump kicking on and off about every 3 to 4 minutes until it reached 40. Is that typical for a system that hasn't been turned on for about a year and a half? Could someone here run me through the proper steps to start this thing and keep it online! Please help,you are my only hope!
 

Mike Swearingen

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If you have an old galvanized pressure tank, it probably is waterlogged and needs to be drained down. Try that first.
If that doesn't straighten it out, you may need to replace the air volume control (looks like a little metal "flying saucer"). I don't know what the "check ball" is.
If you can't get the old galvanized tank straightened out, I would get a new WellXTrol pressure tank. It should come with 38 psi pressure already in it, but if it doesn't, you can always bleed excess air pressure off, or add it with a bicycle pump or portable air tank or compressor. The tank pressure (with NO water pressure on it) should read two psi below your cut-on pressure).
Here are some great tutorials that might help you.
www.peekspump.com by Ron Peeks
www.IrrigationTutorials.com by Jess Stryker
Good luck!
Mike
 

juggalo6

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If you have an old galvanized pressure tank, it probably is waterlogged and needs to be drained down.

Well, I drained it already to replace whatever that piece is that the pressure switch screws in to. So that's taken care of.
 

juggalo6

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If that doesn't straighten it out, you may need to replace the air volume control (looks like a little metal "flying saucer").


I don't have one of those on my tank. The only thing I have is a pressure gauge screwed in to some adjustible piece about half way up the side of the tank. And just a simple cap at the very top.
 

Raucina

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Your real problem is the pump not making 40 psi in less than a few minutes. It may be shutting off on overheat. You can get the checkvalve at a well drillers office with proper ports. Forget Lowes for well items.

If you drained the tank, you got some air in it, so that should work for awhile. You will likely have to bite for the PUMP-WELL guy to do a checkup- do not call a plumber.
 

Cacher_Chick

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float valve

If that doesn't straighten it out, you may need to replace the air volume control (looks like a little metal "flying saucer").


I don't have one of those on my tank. The only thing I have is a pressure gauge screwed in to some adjustible piece about half way up the side of the tank. And just a simple cap at the very top.


Sounds like you have an airmaker system. Can you hear air bubbling into the tank each time the well pump kicks on?

The tank should have a 1.25" plug-type fitting about half way up the side of the tank, this is actually a float valve on the inside. It should have a small orifice in it to vent excess air out of the tank until the water reaches the level of the water. Often this might leak a little and merely tapping on it stops the leak. People have been known to plug the orifice with a screw to stop the leak, but this also stops it's function.

Here's a page to give you a better idea- http://bradyproducts.com/documents/bradyairreleaseinstructions.pdf

If this is your leak, replacement float valves are apparently available.
 
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Speedbump

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The turning on and off sounds like the main problem to me. If the pump stops running and the points in the pressure switch are still closed, it's cutting out because of the overload protector. This means the motor is pulling high amps which is not a minor problem. You may end up changing the pump.

bob...
 

Cacher_Chick

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The turning on and off sounds like the main problem to me. If the pump stops running and the points in the pressure switch are still closed, it's cutting out because of the overload protector. This means the motor is pulling high amps which is not a minor problem. You may end up changing the pump.

bob...


Yes, we really need to know whether it was the pressure switch that was cycling on and off or if the switch was staying closed while the pump was "kicking on and off".
 

Masterpumpman

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The best solution!

What you have is an out dated tank system which was great before the new bladder type tanks.

Everyone is giving you good advise.

I'm concerned that the pump is cutting on and off before it reaches maximum pressure. Have that checked out before it burns out your pump and pressure switch.

If necessary, call a pump man, don't call a plumber or an electrician!

Once the pump is OK, replace the leaking part! An older experienced pump man will understand your system.

BEST SOLUTION: is to replace the old galvanized pressure tank with a new style Bladder Tank similar to a Amtrol Wel-X-Trol. These tanks will be much smaller and better. Depending on your current installation, you may have to have the pump pulled up one joint and remove or plug the ball bleeder valve or small hole in the drop pipe.
 
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