Faucet hole too close to flange by Granite Company

[RICHARD ROJAS]

It's a lot of noise about nothing, just do as Reach4 suggested. Reasonable and cheap solution to an awful mistake.

Lol Yelp... not looking badmotuth company but arrived at amicable solution as some have been helpful here with ideas. We will see what they say Monday and if they're willing to rectify. It looks like I have a few Solutions here. Thank you for your response



Get even with the company by complaining on yelp.

 

[RICHARD ROJAS]

Why substitute? If they are to cut a piece of the sink flange, couldn't that black thing be used as well or better than a nut?

It looks like from a little bit of research on the internet that porcelain can be cut I just don't know about how that would affect the strength of the sink itself, will see what they say Monday, thank you for your post

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

It looks like from a little bit of research on the internet that porcelain can be cut I just don't know about how that would affect the strength of the sink itself, will see what they say Monday, thank you for your post

Yeah, getting the porcelain cut/ground would bother me too. I have no relevant experience.

You might take some measurements. Distance from granite to bottom of threaded piece. Distance from bottom of porcelain to the bottom of the threaded piece. Outside diameter of threaded metal piece. That idea I sketched is not to scale; presumably the piece could be made thinner to make sure there is enough thread to engage. I wonder if the faucet maker offers a piece to deal with this kind of thing. The problem must happen now and then.

I hope the granite people offer a good solution.

 

[Jadnashua]

Cutting the flange and the porcelain finish will expose the raw metal and is a potential rusting point. IMHO, it should be fixed in a different manner. A couple of questions, though...how is the sink attached to the slab, and how close is the hole to the actual edge of the sink cutout? Some granite (or any stone) is quite homogenous, but some has lots of big crystals, and internal faults. The location of the hole to the edge can make a difference depending on the type of stone.

 

[RICHARD ROJAS]

Cutting the flange and the porcelain finish will expose the raw metal and is a potential rusting point. IMHO, it should be fixed in a different manner. A couple of questions, though...how is the sink attached to the slab, and how close is the hole to the actual edge of the sink cutout? Some granite (or any stone) is quite homogenous, but some has lots of big crystals, and internal faults. The location of the hole to the edge can make a difference depending on the type of stone.

Cutting the flange and the porcelain finish will expose the raw metal and is a potential rusting point. IMHO, it should be fixed in a different manner. A couple of questions, though...how is the sink attached to the slab, and how close is the hole to the actual edge of the sink cutout? Some granite (or any stone) is quite homogenous, but some has lots of big crystals, and internal faults. The location of the hole to the edge can make a difference depending on the type of stone.

 

[Erico]

I guess my questions are: Did they drill the holes based on your drawing or did you just give them the specs and tell them to make it work? Did the granite people install the piece or did you pick it up?

I've always had the granite people install and drill faucet holes on site. Even when done on site, it can be tricky. Especially with those porcelain sinks with larger/thicker flanges. In your case, it appears the faucet could not be placed too far back due to the short spout.

My buddy just did Quartz with a porcelain sink. There just wasn't much room in that strip behind the sink. He picked a large sink that barely fit in the cabinet due to the flange, the cabinet supports and the framing we had to build to carry the heavy sink. The quartz installer had a hard time getting the hole placed just right ... and the plumber b-tched anyway - but he made it work. See attached photo. We had to place the soap dispenser on the side because there was no room behind the sink for the bottle - that's how tight it was.

I've seen your situation and the haphazard solutions that didn't look pretty but they worked. I think a little ingenuity could make yours look neat and professional under the sink and work as intended. If the threaded pipe drops below the flange thickness, all you need to do is build up the bottom of the granite to the flange height so the nut rests flat. A shaped pice of wood along with a large washer would work. A stack of plastic or steel washers withe edge cut off would work.

In short. I would work around the problem even if it was the granite fabricator's fault. It would be wasteful to throw that granite in the trash.

Another buddy replaced his old granite and wanted to keep his big black ugly heavy porcelain sink that was rigged with wood shims for for the same problem you have. In his case, the sink was made to over mount or undermount. It was undermount so the hole need to match the factory holes in the flange - bu they missed apparently. So they shimmed. It looked like crap if you stuck your head up under the sink but it worked. I talked him in to letting the new granite people provide a nice new stainless sink.

 

[RICHARD ROJAS]

View attachment 34307



I guess my questions are: Did they drill the holes based on your drawing or did you just give them the specs and tell them to make it work? Did the granite people install the piece or did you pick it up?

I've always had the granite people install and drill faucet holes on site. Even when done on site, it can be tricky. Especially with those porcelain sinks with larger/thicker flanges. In your case, it appears the faucet could not be placed too far back due to the short spout.

My buddy just did Quartz with a porcelain sink. There just wasn't much room in that strip behind the sink. He picked a large sink that barely fit in the cabinet due to the flange, the cabinet supports and the framing we had to build to carry the heavy sink. The quartz installer had a hard time getting the hole placed just right ... and the plumber b-tched anyway - but he made it work. See attached photo. We had to place the soap dispenser on the side because there was no room behind the sink for the bottle - that's how tight it was.

I've seen your situation and the haphazard solutions that didn't look pretty but they worked. I think a little ingenuity could make yours look neat and professional under the sink and work as intended. If the threaded pipe drops below the flange thickness, all you need to do is build up the bottom of the granite to the flange height so the nut rests flat. A shaped pice of wood along with a large washer would work. A stack of plastic or steel washers withe edge cut off would work.

In short. I would work around the problem even if it was the granite fabricator's fault. It would be wasteful to throw that granite in the trash.

Another buddy replaced his old granite and wanted to keep his big black ugly heavy porcelain sink that was rigged with wood shims for for the same problem you have. In his case, the sink was made to over mount or undermount. It was undermount so the hole need to match the factory holes in the flange - bu they missed apparently. So they shimmed. It looked like crap if you stuck your head up under the sink but it worked. I talked him in to letting the new granite people provide a nice new stainless sink.

Great information I appreciate your time in replying , a senior manager from the company and the fabricator showed up this morning they were able to drill out the hole a little more where as the faucet and it's flange were large enough to cover the hole while allowing the Locking nut to sit flush, as mentioned before in one of my post I believe treating people with respect and giving others the time to rectify uncomfortable situation works so much better. The workers did admit to drilling the hole to close but in this instance the faucet flange allowed enough variance to compensate for the Locking nut to tighten. All in all it all worked out great, I offered the gentleman coffee and my wife offered them a bagel she picked up this morning. Offering other respect and gratitude goes much further when working with other. Once again thank you all for the input and please enjoy your week and God bless you.

 

[WJcandee]

Great information I appreciate your time in replying , a senior manager from the company and the fabricator showed up this morning they were able to drill out the hole a little more where as the faucet and it's flange were large enough to cover the hole while allowing the Locking nut to sit flush, as mentioned before in one of my post I believe treating people with respect and giving others the time to rectify uncomfortable situation works so much better. The workers did admit to drilling the hole to close but in this instance the faucet flange allowed enough variance to compensate for the Locking nut to tighten. All in all it all worked out great, I offered the gentleman coffee and my wife offered them a bagel she picked up this morning. Offering other respect and gratitude goes much further when working with other. Once again thank you all for the input and please enjoy your week and God bless you.

And thank you for being such a gentleman when we got a little pissy with you.

 

[PlumbSolve]

This is a very simple fix.The running nipple looks too short to get the plastic nut to purchase properly. American products are different to ours here in Africa. But it looks like if you could extend the running nipple to be longer you could simply make a stepped washer out of machinable plastic or even mdf or a piece of wood.That looks like a35mm x1,5mm thread. Its either 32mm or 35mm ,I can measure tomorrow.
I make a few of these for the plumbers from time to time when the concrete slab is too thick.
So you just get an extended nipple and a stepped washer and everything is sorted out.
Its more important that the mixer fits right on top and maybe he focused more on this and didnt take into account the underslung basin had a lip on it.
Measured it .It is 32mm x1,5mm

 

[hj]

Redrill the hole to make it "oval" so the spout can move back, if the faucet is large enough to cover the bigger hole.