expensive channel drain vs. other ideas

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iowa

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I am presently putting up a heated pole building to be used for winter dog exercising. I will have a few fences separating groups of dogs. I will pick up solid waste, but expect to hose off the sealed concrete floor daily for urine removal, as well as a bi-weekly power washing and sanitizing. I originally wanted to use channel drains all along the west, south and east perimeters of the building, each of which are 40' long. 4" channel seems to be too narrow, I can see the spray going back and forth over it, making the task more work than it should be. I don't know if I should put channel drain right up next to the wall (which will be waterproof) which would eliminate the back and forth problem, but 4" still seems too small to me anyway..... After pricing 8" or 12" channels, my jaw dropped through the floor, so I was trying to come up with alternatives. One of them would be to run 4" sewer pipe along the "run" with something like 12" PVC square drains tapping into the run every 10 ft.. The floor will slope 1/4" per 10ft. Is this a workable alternative to the channel drains? If so, then I'd probably choose it over continuous 4" channel. Thanks for your suggestions. ( I used this forum extensively while remodeling our home 5 years ago, without making a single post!! I have Toto toilets and they work great!!)
 

Shacko

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I hate to throw a wrench in the mix, but I think your local jurisdiction will have some say on how you do this, sorry.
 

Gary Swart

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Gotta agree with Shacko. Before you pour concrete, make sure everything is code acceptable.
 

Jadnashua

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1/4" in 10' is (I think) jus tasking for major problems. You might get away with 1/8" per foot, but the standard for drains is 1/4" per foot. there's likely to be some fur/hair in the debris being washed away, and it needs the proper slope once in the drain. You might still be able to make a trench, but instead of a continuous drain, space 'regular' shower clamping drains.

To waterproof the floor, you might consider a membrane like Ditra, but I think I'd use Kerdi in the trench. If the trench was wide enough, you could use Kerdi drains, but they are not inexpensive, either. Check out www.schluter.com for those waterproofing materials, and I'd also run this by the people at www.johnbridge.com for some ideas on your 'wetroom/shower' structure. I'd also consider epoxy grout, but the cost on that is large, too. It would be much easier to keep clean, though.
 

iowa

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I hate to throw a wrench in the mix, but I think your local jurisdiction will have some say on how you do this, sorry.

I live on a farm in rural Iowa. I did check with our county, who in turn checked with the state. I have written approval to direct the waste with whatever type of drain I choose to a holding tank, which will be pumped out periodically with a "honey" wagon and injected into our fields.
 

Jerome2877

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Where will this be draining to, sewer? If your laying pipe then it will need to be trapped and vented.

Sorry didn't see the last post. Even with a holding tank you will get pretty nasty smells if its not trapped.
 
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iowa

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1/4" in 10' is (I think) jus tasking for major problems. You might get away with 1/8" per foot, but the standard for drains is 1/4" per foot. there's likely to be some fur/hair in the debris being washed away, and it needs the proper slope once in the drain. You might still be able to make a trench, but instead of a continuous drain, space 'regular' shower clamping drains.

To waterproof the floor, you might consider a membrane like Ditra, but I think I'd use Kerdi in the trench. If the trench was wide enough, you could use Kerdi drains, but they are not inexpensive, either. Check out www.schluter.com for those waterproofing materials, and I'd also run this by the people at www.johnbridge.com for some ideas on your 'wetroom/shower' structure. I'd also consider epoxy grout, but the cost on that is large, too. It would be much easier to keep clean, though.

Sorry, I meant 1/4" per foot! Per 10 ft wouldn't work very well, would it?? As far as the concrete floor goes, I will have it sealed so is waterproof, or use a newer product called Hycrete, which makes concrete totally waterproof; no sealing necessary. I was on John's site and used all the Schluter products to remodel our upstairs bathroom 5 years ago. Still looks great and no leaks!! Another great forum!
 

iowa

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Where will this be draining to, sewer? If your laying pipe then it will need to be trapped and vented.

This will be drained to a holding tank placed just outside the north wall of our building. Yes we will be laying pipe. This is all part of the plumbing rough-in.
 

Ballvalve

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I have formed them in cement with and without grates. You could do just a trough along the wall.

Or 6 or 8"pipe formed fllush to the top of the cement pour, or a bit low, then the next day or earlier one cuts a 3 or 5" slot into the pipe with a diamond blade on a circular saw and a hose running to cool it. You could slot portions only to make it easier. Better without grates as you can wash down the pipe daily also.

You can do without the diamond blade if someone gets on the green cement and exposes the portion of pipe intended to be cut.

Another option is a form screwed to the top of the pipe incorporating a step or lip for a grate, in which case you remove it just after the pour and cut the pipe at your leisure.

I have a wine cellar with a long formed drain and regret the grate as its tough to clean the trough.
 
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