Expansion tank leak, can I keep water heater off?

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JamieOguzh

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Expansion tank2.jpg
waterheaterhotvalve.jpg


We recently discovered that our expansion tank had pinhole leaks so we turn the water off to it and unplugged the water heater.

The problem is my husband had shoulder surgery and he cant work. He cant do anything on his own right now and our finances are reeeeally bad so buying even a new expansion tank is pretty much out of the question.

We have not been using hot water but the expansion tank still leaks off and on even with the water valve connecting to it, turned off. I need real advice here please.

What do I need to do to stop the expansion tank from releasing pressure (I'm guessing that is what it is) when I use cold water to wash my clothes? I read that I need to turn the water valve off, let the hot water out of the tank and something about the pressure release.

I'm adding pictures, can someone please advise me? What is the pressure release valve? Im afraid it will explode on me, is that possible?

Later... If I do decide to do it myself, is that possible? Either way, I would like to wait and just use cold water like I have been but I worry about why there is water on the floor every time I use the washer (it doesn't seem to come fro the washer).

PLEASE, ANY info would help please. Forgive the novel lol I'm nervous and doing this on my own.
 
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You seem pretty certain that it is only the expansion tank that is leaking.

If so, it can be something as simple as leaky threads and fittings, all require you to dismantle this thing, and you'll either put the old one back, or a new one, or bypass it without using one. You may want to check with municipal code and your home insurance policy.

You may or may not have the DIY skills for this and may require a licensed professional.
 

Jadnashua

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If you shut the water going into the WH, you should switch the WH off as a precaution. If the tank partially empties and uncovered the heating element, it would almost instantly destroy itself. But, with the cold inlet to the WH off, eventually, the thing should stop leaking. If you removed the ET and put a plug in the T fitting, the T&P valve (the one with the lever on it) may open when the WH runs to reheat the water. Heating water causes it to expand, and that's the purpose of the ET - it provides a place for it to go.

Other than the mess and possible water damage, you could just leave it until you could afford to replace it. Plugging it won't be dangerous unless the T&P valve won't open which you could test, but again, that valve may periodically open to relieve the pressure caused by the expanding water during reheat.
 

Reach4

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What do I need to do to stop the expansion tank from releasing pressure (I'm guessing that is what it is) when I use cold water to wash my clothes? I read that I need to turn the water valve off, let the hot water out of the tank and something about the pressure release.
You could hook a garden hose to the valve in your second picture, and lead that to a drain. Open the valve. Why did water drip after you turned off the white valve in the first picture? Could be a slow leak in that white valve.

What is the pressure release valve? Im afraid it will explode on me, is that possible?
It's the bronze looking thing in the middle of your first picture. That valve is there to release pressure to prevent an explosion. There should be no significant danger of explosion in the situation you have described. Advice? Review your finances. Drop HBO, eat at home more, and fix your expansion tank and whatever else is bad.

Later... If I do decide to do it myself, is that possible?
Yes. You might have a friend who could lend a hand and/or some tools.
 

Terry

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When a faucet is opened in the warm position, it mixes water across the valve into the hot side. This causes the water heater to leak again.
You can turn the hot water supply off to your washer, and any other faucet that is single handle.
At some point, you will need to deal with the leak. Sometimes a utility company will have funds for repairs in this case.

I read that the power to the heater was unplugged. That was good.
You can then shut the water off to the water heater.
Before plugging the water heater back in, the leak should be repaired, and the air bled from the tank, normally by running hot in the tub untill all the air is gone.
 

Gary Swart

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You seem sure the leak is in the tank itself, but the picture of the problem shows the corrosion around the tee and nipple leading to the tank. That is not surprising since these fitting are galvanized steel rather that brass. My suggestion is to disconnect the flex pipe and remove the tee, nipples, and coupling going into the tank, then replace them with brass. If my guess is correct, that will fix the problem. If I'm wrong, you will have just replaced the wrong kind of fitting that should be placed anyway. BTW, expansion tanks are not costly items and it does not require a licensed plumber to replace them. Surely your husband has a friend that could lend a hand (pun intended) on this job, even if a tank replacement is required. Also, before working on this, first turn the incoming water off and shut the power off to the heater. After replacing the parts noted, turn the water back on an open a faucet. Although there should be no water lost from the heater, this step will assure that the tank is full before turning the power back on.
 

Jadnashua

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YOu only need a few things to remove and replace an ET:
- often, you can unscrew them by hand, but if not, maybe a strap wrench
- some pipe dope or some PTFE tape to seal the connection of the threads
- an air pressure gauge to check the tank's pressure. If you don't have an air compressor or a bicycle pump, you may need to go to a service station or borrow one and set the precharge.

FWIW, though, that tank SHOULD be supported. At some point, it will fail and typically fill up with water. It could just break off if the weight got too much if things got rusted too bad, making a real mess. It should have some straps or something to hold it in place verses just the plumbing connection.

The tank should be precharged to your typical water pressure. But, if you don't have a water pressure gauge, you can use the tire pressure gauge. When you attach the tank then turn the water on, the air pressure in there will become the same as the water pressure...so, I'd precharge it to say 40#, install it, then check the pressure. If it is higher, then turn the water off, open a valve to relieve pressure then pump the tank up to that water pressure and turn the water back on, and you're done.

As said, though, I'd toss those galvanize fittings, which, IMHO, have no place in any potable water system in a home, and replace with brass.
 

JamieOguzh

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I have pinhole leaks in the blue expansion tank and I can hear it spray when I have the washer on or at random times.

I just want to say that all of you are absolutely awesome!!! I mean that! I was worried no one would reply. I truly appreciate you all taking the time to respond because I didn't get responses at other forums.

I just saw my phone, I havent thoroughly read everyones reply but I will in just a few minutes... I felt the need to thank you guys right away :)
 

JamieOguzh

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I hope you know just how valuable you guys are... please keep up the good work. If there were questions... as soon as I get my kids to bed, I will respond... THANK YOU AGAIN
 

JamieOguzh

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Have you confirmed without a doubt it's from the tank, and not the leaky fittings?

"Hearing it spray" and SEEING it spray are two different things.
===================
I apologize, I should have rephrased it better. Yes, I see the spray and I know exactly where it is coming from which is the expansion tank. I will however, keep a look out on the pipes. Regardless you are right, they need to be changed when I change the expansion tank.
 

JamieOguzh

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If you shut the water going into the WH, you should switch the WH off as a precaution. If the tank partially empties and uncovered the heating element, it would almost instantly destroy itself. But, with the cold inlet to the WH off, eventually, the thing should stop leaking. If you removed the ET and put a plug in the T fitting, the T&P valve (the one with the lever on it) may open when the WH runs to reheat the water. Heating water causes it to expand, and that's the purpose of the ET - it provides a place for it to go.

Other than the mess and possible water damage, you could just leave it until you could afford to replace it. Plugging it won't be dangerous unless the T&P valve won't open which you could test, but again, that valve may periodically open to relieve the pressure caused by the expanding water during reheat.
=================================
This was a great reply and answered the most important part of my worries. I appreciate it.
 

JamieOguzh

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You could hook a garden hose to the valve in your second picture, and lead that to a drain. Open the valve. Why did water drip after you turned off the white valve in the first picture? Could be a slow leak in that white valve.


It's the bronze looking thing in the middle of your first picture. That valve is there to release pressure to prevent an explosion. There should be no significant danger of explosion in the situation you have described. Advice? Review your finances. Drop HBO, eat at home more, and fix your expansion tank and whatever else is bad.

Yes. You might have a friend who could lend a hand and/or some tools.
==============================
Lol I appreciate your advice. We do not have extras at all, we have 5 kids so extras are no biggie to dismiss and we eat at home every day. BUT, the rest of the advice was very explanatory and applicable to what I am asking so I DEFINITELY appreciate it. Thank you :)
 

JamieOguzh

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When a faucet is opened in the warm position, it mixes water across the valve into the hot side. This causes the water heater to leak again.
You can turn the hot water supply off to your washer, and any other faucet that is single handle.
At some point, you will need to deal with the leak. Sometimes a utility company will have funds for repairs in this case.

I read that the power to the heater was unplugged. That was good.
You can then shut the water off to the water heater.
Before plugging the water heater back in, the leak should be repaired, and the air bled from the tank, normally by running hot in the tub untill all the air is gone.
================================
This was absolutely perfect. Thank you so much!!!
 

JamieOguzh

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You seem sure the leak is in the tank itself, but the picture of the problem shows the corrosion around the tee and nipple leading to the tank. That is not surprising since these fitting are galvanized steel rather that brass. My suggestion is to disconnect the flex pipe and remove the tee, nipples, and coupling going into the tank, then replace them with brass. If my guess is correct, that will fix the problem. If I'm wrong, you will have just replaced the wrong kind of fitting that should be placed anyway. BTW, expansion tanks are not costly items and it does not require a licensed plumber to replace them. Surely your husband has a friend that could lend a hand (pun intended) on this job, even if a tank replacement is required. Also, before working on this, first turn the incoming water off and shut the power off to the heater. After replacing the parts noted, turn the water back on an open a faucet. Although there should be no water lost from the heater, this step will assure that the tank is full before turning the power back on.
=================================
Firstly, loved the pun lol Other than that, great advice and directions. I really appreciate it!
 

JamieOguzh

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YOu only need a few things to remove and replace an ET:
- often, you can unscrew them by hand, but if not, maybe a strap wrench
- some pipe dope or some PTFE tape to seal the connection of the threads
- an air pressure gauge to check the tank's pressure. If you don't have an air compressor or a bicycle pump, you may need to go to a service station or borrow one and set the precharge.

FWIW, though, that tank SHOULD be supported. At some point, it will fail and typically fill up with water. It could just break off if the weight got too much if things got rusted too bad, making a real mess. It should have some straps or something to hold it in place verses just the plumbing connection.

The tank should be precharged to your typical water pressure. But, if you don't have a water pressure gauge, you can use the tire pressure gauge. When you attach the tank then turn the water on, the air pressure in there will become the same as the water pressure...so, I'd precharge it to say 40#, install it, then check the pressure. If it is higher, then turn the water off, open a valve to relieve pressure then pump the tank up to that water pressure and turn the water back on, and you're done.

As said, though, I'd toss those galvanize fittings, which, IMHO, have no place in any potable water system in a home, and replace with brass.
=============================
Very detailed advice and I completely appreciate it!! I am reading how important it is to replace the fittings and I will definitely do that. Thank you so much!
 
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