Existing Toilet Flange

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ma2169

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I know there are numerous threads about toilet flanges on here but i cant seem to find any that relate to what my question is.

I took up my toilet and old tile. I also took up the 1/2 floor that was underneath the tile and replaced it with hardi board. The problem i have is that since i have a pvc toilet flange (that used to sit on top of the original tile) i was unable to completly cut the 1/2 plywood out from underneath the flange. That being said i cut the plywood it into approximately a square around the toilet flange and left that area of the original 1/2" floor. When i installed the hardiboard i just made a square cutout around the 1/2" plywood leaving the 1/8" gaps as recommended by the manufacturer. This gap will be filled with thinset when tiling. Now the problem i have is that my toilet flange still sits up above the hardiboard (as it should sit on top of the tile) along with the tile size and layout of the tile my wife wants i will be unable to cut the tile to fit around around the pvc pipe (looks to be 3") to slide under the toilet flange. Is it acceptable to put another layer of plywood (cut a donut and split into two pieces for installation purposes) under the toilet flange so that the flange sits tight on the plywood and can be screwed down to the floor. Then i could cut a hole in my tile (slightly larger than OD of the toilet flange) and simply place the tile over and around the flange which would leave a small gap between the donut and the tile that would then be filled with grout?

I will try and take pictures and post tomorrow to clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance for your help
 

ma2169

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attaching pictures of existing toilet flange and floor prior to laying tile.
 

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Reach4

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It looks to me as if you had 3 inch PVC coming up, and a PVC inside flange was glued in. Then that got cut off and an outside flange was installed, but leaving the remainder of the old inside flange. You are left with a 2-5/8 diameter hole. There is a special drill bit that can drill out the inside remainder of that old flange.

If you have a basement or reasonable crawl space, it might be easiest to replace some stuff including the flange. Otherwise your description seems pretty reasonable.

I don't know if there is an advantage to using the thinset if the toilet will cover everything. But I am not a pro, and maybe filling the gaps would have an advantage over concealing the construction later if somebody pulls the toilet. From a functional point of view, I am wondering if filling in the space with something that would add some strength wouldn't be better, or put nothing there so as to not interfere with the next person doing work.

Your method sounds OK, but you would want to match the thicknesses really well. At least put in shallow taper shims under where the screws will go to take the compression better. But if you have access below, I think you could implement a superior solution.
 

ma2169

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i did some looking on my lunch. I have a 3" vertical pipe with the toilet flange glued on the outside of the pipe. what looks to be a cut off inside flange is actually the 3" pipe.
 

Reach4

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A 3 inch schedule 40 PVC pipe is 3.042 inches ID.
 

WJcandee

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That hole actually looks more like 2-3/8 to 2-1/2. The outflow hole on a typical Toto is 2-3/8". That seems to me to be cutting it awfully-close.
 

Cacher_Chick

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What is under the bathroom? If the closet bend can be cut off, then it is just a matter of replacing it along with a new riser and flange.
 

ma2169

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What is under the bathroom? If the closet bend can be cut off, then it is just a matter of replacing it along with a new riser and flange.

I have a basement with a drop ceiling. That being said I do have access to do this method but was hoping not to if there was an alternative.
 

hj

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I do not know what your ruler is measuring because a 3" pipe is 3.008 i.d. and 3.50" o.d., and your pipe does not seem to match either dimension. But, most plumbers would have removed 'worthless' all plastic flange and installed one with a metal flange. As far as the hole in the tile, you can do ANYTHING you want to as long as you like what it looks like when you get done. Actually, you don't have to do ANYTHING, As long as the flange is at the proper height and secured, it does not need anything under it.
 
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ma2169

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I do not know what your ruler is measuring because a 3" pipe is 3.008 i.d. and 3.50" o.d., and your pipe does not seem to match either dimension. But, most plumbers would have removed 'worthless' all plastic flange and installed one with a metal flange. As far as the hole in the tile, you can do ANYTHING you want to as long as you like what it looks like when you get done. Actually, you don't have to do ANYTHING, As long as the flange is at the proper height and secured, it does not need anything under it.

OK, so did a bit more checking this time actually putting the tape measure inside the pipe. The ID is slightly larger than 3". The original picture i posted must have been taken at a slight angle since it does appear to measure less than 3" and close to 2 1/12". Sorry for the confusion but the pipe is in fact slightly larger than 3" ID.

HJ why do you say 'worthless' all plastic flange. Are the metal flanges better and if so why? Should rusting out be a concern with metal flanges?
 

WJcandee

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I won't answer for HJ, since he is the oracle, but plastic flange rings tend to deform and/or break over time, whereas Stainless flange rings are exceptionally-reliable. It's stainless, so it won't rust.

Something with a ring like this:
886-4ptm.jpg
 
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