Easier Way for 2 inch Drain? (1 Piece Shower In Basement)

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avellino

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Installing a 1 piece fiberglass shower in the basement.

Began breaking the concrete slab to rough the drain towards the center of the shower for P-TRAP installation.

Is there an easy way to connect http://www.oatey.com/graphics/products/drains/42050.gif

with the P-TRAP?

I mean it's not like the back of a bath tub where I have access or like installing a shower on a main floor / second floor where I can work below the shower.

Do I assume, rough the 2inch pipe, glue the P-trap, screw on http://www.oatey.com/graphics/products/drains/42050.gif onto the base of the shower, take the exact measurement between the P-TRAP and http://www.oatey.com/graphics/products/drains/42050.gif, glue a piece of pipe onto http://www.oatey.com/graphics/products/drains/42050.gif and force the shower into the P-TRAP?

Does anyone know of a better way, I know that some http://www.oatey.com/graphics/products/drains/42050.gif are adjustable, meaning instead of glue to the 2 inch pipe that goes into P-TRAP, it has a rubber gasket, but the concept is still the same, meaning the measurement has to be exact with no room for error?

Thanks
Avellino
 

Racer814

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Thats pretty much my method....the drain with the rubber gasket may be a little easier for you.....I prefer a regular pvc drain.....it can be a little tricky but not too bad.....you should be able to get a rough measurement on the drain opening and install the piping in the slab to line up with the drain opening....just dry fit it at this point....install the drain on the shower and remove the strainer....slide shower into position...level..adjust your drain if nec......when it lines up perfectly.....pull shower back out and glue fittings....put a pencil mark on fitting hub and adjacently on pipe to help you get it back lined up on re installation....slide the shower back in and confirm it's location....if it off you can break the joints loose if they don't set long.....when it is perfect...take a flashlight and a tape measure and measure from hub to hub between trap and drain......it can also be helpful to draw a line across the floor at the front of the shower where it will be when set and plumb....pull shower back cut pipe and glue into drain.......tilt shower back towards you, slide front edge on your pencil mark and slowly lower on to drain.....if you are using a gasket type it should be easier....if you glue the pipe on you will need a friend to glue it just before you set it down....come to think of it you could use a friend there to help regardless...

Good Luck
 

Racer814

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if you decide to use a solvent weld drain,,,MAKE SURE you get one that allows you to unscrew the drain later and re apply putty or silicone should the drain loosen up over time.....and they can
 

hj

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drain

Offhand, I cannot think of any shower drain that has a piece you can unscrew later, although there might be some obscure one that does. Use a drain that fastens to the pipe with the rubber gasket, then you can slide the base over it and cut it to size with an internal cutter afterwards.
 

SRdenny

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Greasing the inside of the rubber gasket before lowering it only the riser helps. You might try a dry fit before making your final installation. That way you can be sure the trap is lined up properly.
 

Racer814

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here ya go hj....I don't know your location but every supply house I deal with carries both types...I just have to specify it...the whole bottom piece is the nut and "it" glues to the pvc...not the strainer. This way you can screw the strainer out if it becomes loose over time....I just simply refuse to use any other kind....I run across leaks from shower drains becoming loose over time a lot....I've also seen the drain pipes fall completely out of the strainer on the rubber gasket type when it wasnt properly supported......and you can't get work on that type strainer either if it's on the upper floors.......
 

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avellino

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Racer814

So am I to understand that the only thing that will be holding this PVC adaptor to the shower base is some putty and the 2 screws from the strainer?
 

Racer814

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no, it screws into the hub like any other shower drain....only difference being that the hub that glues onto the pvc is located on the nut instead of the strainer body....this permits the strainer body to be screwed out if it becomes loose and starts to leak over time....the 2 screws only serve to hold the strainer top on........this is just what "I" prefer.....doesnt mean another method is wrong.......personally I agree with HJ that it might be easier for a DIY'er to use the gasket type....it is easier to work with in this case.....just make sure you get the heavy brass bodied one and get it good and tight.....if you are in a cold climate and use putty under the flange make sure you knead the putty good in your hands until it is warm and pliable....that way you will be sure that it pulls down tight

Good Luck
 
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